D19 Diesel Cold Start Videos

I've uploaded one video trying to start my D19 Diesel on my youtube channel, I'll have a second video uploaded of it starting and running. She IS NOT pretty and needs some TLC. We've had her for 12 years and put up a lot of hay. Every year I keep thinking about re-ringing and fixing things that need to be fixed. I think I'm getting close to the do it now or else stage. Click on the link then look for the D19 video in my videos list.

http://httpwww.youtube.com/user/whspioneer89


Edited by LloydCentWi - 18 Apr 2011 at 9:39am

Here's the link to the video where it starts. I try not to ride the starter or glow plug button too long, but sometimes counting in your head doesn't work the best.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5Q-FLFxLa8

Lloyd that is very hard to watch.....why not use a whiff of ether and save the starter and batteries? Ether can be your friend LOL!

Wow, if mine started that hard I would just let it idle all the time, have you ever checked to see if the intake heater is working?  I also hold the heater button while cranking mine and for a minute or so after it starts when cold.

You don't have glow plugs on a 262. They only have a preheater in the intake. You're right about not using it if you ether it to start. I think you can hit the heater for up to a minute, but I'd have to get the manual to be sure. Another thing I would try is starting with the throttle at idle. I know the owner's manual might say open wide to start, my D17D owner's says to. Not on mine though. Oil needs time to circulate, the cam bearings are oiled only from the oil running off the head. I would really recommend starting at idle, especially with a turbo.                 

I have a D19 Diesel too.  Here is a few thing I noticed about yours.    It cranks slow-starter probably needs brushes and bushings.  I sounds like you have a hard miss, cannt tell for sure as noise can be decieving on a vidieo, but for sure youve got a leaking delivery valve-while cranking lots of smoke, no fire,  and probably leaking injectors-lots of smoke after it starts and it takeS a while to clean out.  Of course the compression is down too cause it aint new anymore.      3 things againt ya,  cranking speed,  fuel system not holding pressure and low compression.  Any one can cause hard starting, you probably have a combination of all three.   Good Luck.

It has been rode hard and put away wet. It's in about the same condition as when we bought it in 1999 with the exception that the alternator  and lights did work at that time. When dad bought it he had the dealer put it on a dyno. It only produced 58 HP at that time. It was about 30 degrees F this morning. When it first starts it never fires on all cylinders right away, unless it was still warm. It takes a few seconds, maybe 10-20 seconds before they all start firing. I change the oil twice a year. Since we've had it it's never overheated, lost coolant or had discolored oil at oil change time. Like I said before, it's due for some TLC. Hopefully I'll have the time and money to get started on this summer. Once i get it fixed up I'm leaving the loader off.

Use the preheater for a good solid minute. That might help and like mentioned before check out your starter it seems just a bit slow. I think I would follow Brian's advise on running it slow and have long warm ups and cool downs. A guy I know well has a pit and excavating business and even with his much newer Cats he always let them warm up for at least 15 minutes to half an hour before he moves them and then lets them idle for a long while before he shuts them down. I've always thought of him as a real good operator and his equipment is always top notch.

Talk to Bill at Sandy Lake, one of our sponsors. I've gotten my 262 parts from them. Since the 262 is for the most part the same as it was in the D17D, research some of my posts and you'll get an idea of what you're looking at to do a good overhaul. Don't try to do it in-frame.

Yes, the rings are getting tired and the injectors are probably leaking.  The suggestion about a tank or block heater is a good one--------will save you replacing the starter.

The manifold heater should be held in for a MINIMUM of 30 seconds-------60 seconds would be better.  It's a lot better to use the heater once or twice for long periods than a bunch of times for 15 seconds--------using it correctly will also save wear and tear on the starter.

If it doesn't start on the first or second try after holding the manifold heater on, then give it some ether.  As low as the compression seems to be, you can probably use a fair amount.  DO NOT use the manifold heater after squirting some ether in!!!!


Edited by 427435 - 19 Apr 2011 at 11:49am

That's what I was wondering. I was looking at a schematic on Stanadyne's web site trying to understand how it works. So with it leaking, does it cause a pressure loss to the injector? less pressure making for fuel not as well atomized?

That's what I was thinking was going on, but didn't know for sure. What I was reading about it from Stanadyne kind of made me think of it acting somewhat like an accumulator to give fuel a place to go when the injection cycle stops. That sound right? Thanks for the info by the way.

Looks and sounds a lot like ours, I agree with the throttle being too far open.  Just a side note, if you revved my cold tractor like that....................!  Anyway, like the other guys have said, low compression, injection pump, and injector issues, she is just getting tied, they start like that when in that condition.

A dealer once told us to let the engine  crank for a few seconds before turning on the fuel shutoff....it builds up a little heat before it gets a shot of fuel.  I'd also agree with just cracking the throttle on startup.