WD Starter...what would you do?

No time like the present to learn something new.  Go ahead and fix it yourself-you have access to a wealth of knowledge on this forum if you run into any snags.  Just my $.02

The last two starters I had Rebuild cost about 225-250 at chitwoods in Richland center Wi. He put in a 12 volt field coil and all the other needed parts. He said the nose cone is about the only thing not new. That it will not spin as fast as a 6 volt one with a 12v bat. But will last since it isn't over loaded. Usually the armertur is bad in them. I have a WC style M&W gear redution stater that needs to be gone threw.

Did you put a hand crank on the tractor to make sure it isn't seized up or going that way?

Edited by john(MI) - 01 Oct 2010 at 7:11am

AC starters are prone to locking up the engine, probably caused by a slightly loose starter mounting. Worn bearings in the starter motor let the armature drag on the pole pieces to slow cranking, then with a hair more wear it locks up. Since I had a tractor starter do that once, I always ask the shop to put in new bushings. The smoke can be coming from a burned commutator that a shop will turn, you don't have the tools for that probably. The smoke can be coming from a pile of ground brush grounding the hot terminal and brush. The smoke can be coming from a brush wire that's overloaded. Originally there were a couple wires from each brush to carry the current but they can break. I had a starter where one afternoon the last one broke. Fortunately the filling station I had stopped at had some tools though I had to steal them (getting back for the theft of gas each time I started the pump, it ran up a dime before getting gas to the nozzle) and I was able to pop the end off and hook the remains of wire back and get the tractor started. When I got home, I yanked that starter and it was still warm when I put it on the counter at the local auto electric shop.

Gerald J.

I guess the consensus is open it up and see what's wrong.

Ten outta ten original starters that come in my shop for a rebuild have a bad arm in them. These units been through Hell over the years, have bearings, bushings, and brushes thrown in them though their lifetime and put back into service with never any work done to the arms. Wouldn't surprise me that the arm is shot in your unit also especially with smoke coming out of it all summer. When I rebuild my units, they all get a re-wound arm installed in them. They're not cheap when they're done, but its a "get what you paid for" thing, and you never have to go back to that problem area again. If you're going to get it rebuilt, and have a shop nearby, have them rebuild the unit the right way for you. Spend the extra dough it get it done right...  HTH
Steve@B&B

Sounds to me like your ignition is not retarding to start.  Kill the ignition ands see if it spins over better.  If it does, retard the timing and see if it starts easier.  If that helps, look at your mag or distributor's retard mechanism.

I have a 1952 Ford pickup. The starter looks the same as the one in the WD. The Ford cars around that time also had the same starter and were positive ground. Has anyone ever tried using one from a Ford car on a WD ? 
Richard