WD Starter...what would you do?
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Topic: WD Starter...what would you do?
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Subject: WD Starter...what would you do?
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2010 at 8:39pm
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So... new starter switch and battery cable and I can still get smoke to roll while trying to start. Had a nice cloud come out of the rear band cover tongiht. Starter acts like it engages, then just stalls. Has been getting progressively worse this summer. So, my 3 options, 1: buy a used starter approx $50 plus shipping. 2: have mine rebuilt, know of a good shope nearby, price unknown. Option 3: buy a drive and brushes kit from eBay and try it myself, price about $60 or so. If it were your tractor and you had never taken a starter apart, what would you do?
AaronSEIA
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Replies:
Posted By: AaronB
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2010 at 8:44pm
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No time like the present to learn something new. Go ahead and fix it yourself-you have access to a wealth of knowledge on this forum if you run into any snags. Just my $.02
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2010 at 8:53pm
I took the one from the G to be repaired. It had one bad brush but there were 2 places that needed soldering and in very close quarters. Take it apart and clean it up. If you come across something you don't feel comfortable doing, bring it to the shop in a basket. That's what I did and it cost me $50.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Allis Fields
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2010 at 6:37am
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The last two starters I had Rebuild cost about 225-250 at chitwoods in Richland center Wi. He put in a 12 volt field coil and all the other needed parts. He said the nose cone is about the only thing not new. That it will not spin as fast as a 6 volt one with a 12v bat. But will last since it isn't over loaded. Usually the armertur is bad in them. I have a WC style M&W gear redution stater that needs to be gone threw.
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2010 at 6:51am
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Check the bearings also.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2010 at 7:10am
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Did you put a hand crank on the tractor to make sure it isn't seized up or going that way?
Or take the plugs out while trying to start it.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Posted By: Bee
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2010 at 9:21am
The brushes break easily you may want to have a new set on hand.
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Bob, North Carolina
1949 B
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2010 at 9:35am
AC starters are prone to locking up the engine, probably caused by a slightly loose starter mounting. Worn bearings in the starter motor let the armature drag on the pole pieces to slow cranking, then with a hair more wear it locks up. Since I had a tractor starter do that once, I always ask the shop to put in new bushings. The smoke can be coming from a burned commutator that a shop will turn, you don't have the tools for that probably. The smoke can be coming from a pile of ground brush grounding the hot terminal and brush. The smoke can be coming from a brush wire that's overloaded. Originally there were a couple wires from each brush to carry the current but they can break. I had a starter where one afternoon the last one broke. Fortunately the filling station I had stopped at had some tools though I had to steal them (getting back for the theft of gas each time I started the pump, it ran up a dime before getting gas to the nozzle) and I was able to pop the end off and hook the remains of wire back and get the tractor started. When I got home, I yanked that starter and it was still warm when I put it on the counter at the local auto electric shop.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2010 at 10:08am
Could it be as simple as bad grounding between the starter and housing? I've had to clean mine to get things working again.
mojo/Mike
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2010 at 12:03pm
I guess the consensus is open it up and see what's wrong.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: bluebanshee
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2010 at 12:15pm
Had ours rebuilt for $84. That was new bushings, switch, drive/bendix, brushes. For that price it wouldn't have been worth my time to order parts and pay the shipping.
Worked good for a few starts and then just shook in and out. Took it back to the shop and he said (I think) that the armature might have moved or shorted. Fixed it for free and added a return spring.
Do you have thick enough cables? Try adding a extra set of jumper cables to double it up.
Have a ford diesel that was slow cranking, 600 grit to clean up where the brushes ride (looked glazed and overheated) and a sanding mandrel on a die grinder to get down to the brushes. Starts like new now.
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 8:50am
Ten outta ten original starters that come in my shop for a rebuild have a bad arm in them. These units been through Hell over the years, have bearings, bushings, and brushes thrown in them though their lifetime and put back into service with never any work done to the arms. Wouldn't surprise me that the arm is shot in your unit also especially with smoke coming out of it all summer. When I rebuild my units, they all get a re-wound arm installed in them. They're not cheap when they're done, but its a "get what you paid for" thing, and you never have to go back to that problem area again. If you're going to get it rebuilt, and have a shop nearby, have them rebuild the unit the right way for you. Spend the extra dough it get it done right... HTH
Steve@B&B
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Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 8:54am
sounds to me like its dragging .
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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra
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Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 8:33am
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Sounds to me like your ignition is not retarding to start. Kill the ignition ands see if it spins over better. If it does, retard the timing and see if it starts easier. If that helps, look at your mag or distributor's retard mechanism.
JimD
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Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.
We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 8:39am
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Bit of an update. Was moving some round bales around yesterday and tried to get it to hang again so I could attempt some of the fixes suggested here. I started that tractor at least a half dozen times and it turned over and fired right off EVERY time. Bit frustrating when I'm trying to get it to do what it's done all summer. Decided to take it and the mag off of my WC to the shop dad uses for all things electrical. I figure even with it being good all day yesterday, it has been acting up and I let a lot of smoke out of the thing the other day. Will report back with their findings.
AaronSEIA
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Posted By: Rich(CentWI)
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 10:17am
I have a 1952 Ford pickup. The starter looks the same as the one in the WD. The Ford cars around that time also had the same starter and were positive ground. Has anyone ever tried using one from a Ford car on a WD ?
Richard
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Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 3:34pm
Aaron,
Take it to the place on J Street,(Called Iowa Generator or something like that) down by Duffy's Antique Car sales in Cedar Rapids. I have found them to be honest and not too expensive. I took my starter off my WD there and they checked it out for no charge. I have had trouble with starter locking up from time to time, they can't figure out why? But I think they are honest and are not too expensive ....
Pastor Mike in Walford
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