1938 Allis Chalmers B

If what you say happened, you have bigger problems with the engine than PB blaster etc. will fix. Pulling it and dropping the clutch will not help anything, to be polite. I wonder if there was any oil in the crankcase when you started it. You probably have major motor seize problems such as bearings etc.

It could be a valve stuck. You might want to take the valve cover off and see if all valves can be pushed down some before taking much apart.  Even the open valves should move down more. If the tractor has not been weighted down one stuck valve will slide the tires without turning the engine. I assume that this tractor does not have a starter which can lock up on restart.  Chances are that the oil pump had lost its prime which caused the problem. Unless a rod broke and has wedged itself in a way to block the crankshaft from turning you can (usually) get a seized crankshaft bearing to turn that has some running time on them after they cool down.  That does not mean you wouldn't need to replace them. Setting five years lets moving parts get dry.  

thanks for the help. I don't know about the oil pressure and this tractor does have a push button starter. I checked the oil after it died and it looked very discolored id say water in the oil. dumb of me not to check it before we started it. But i was only 13 at the time and really didn't know better and my grandfather is paralyzed from the waist down so he had other things he was thinking about..so basically im gonna have to tear it down and rebuilt it..I have never done this before so should i try the valve check first and then go from there or pull the oil pan and see whats up there??

Pull the head and push rods 1st, you will eliminate the valves. Try turning the engine with the hand crank, if still does not turn, you can pour some of your favorite penetrating oil on top of the pistons and let it soak down; periodically attempt to turn with the hand crank. If it frees up and turns, pull the oil pan and rod caps so you can tap the pistons up thru the top. You may need to obtain a ridge reamer to hone out the ridge on the top of the cylinders so that the pistons/rings can be pushed out the top. Now you can check out the rod bearings/journals and the cylinder walls. Pull the engine and place it on an engine stand to remove the crankshaft to check out the main bearings and journals and/or sleeves. New engine kits are readily available and include new pistons, sleeves. rings, wrist pins, rod and main bearings (you may need to take the crank in to machine the journals down; in which case you will need the correct O/S bearings), and gaskets. Sounds like a lot of work (and it is; however, it is very enjoyable, especially for a tractor that belonged to a loved one), but is not all that difficult.

Dick hit on 2 good points. First thing, pull the starter to make sure it hasn't climbed and bound on the flywheel ring gear. I am one of the guys that posted an oops on here about the bolt being too long and setscrewing the flywheel in place. I had made a bracket for the side of the tractor to help load my one row picker on the trailer. When I removed the bracket, I snugged the bolt up so it wouldn't vibrate loose. Nothing will vibrate loose if the engine won't turn over.

Actually no i used to live in Ohio where the tractor is now. I currently live in Missouri. I talked to my uncle tonight he going to pull the starter and check the bolts to see if that makes a difference. If that does not work and i am for sure looking at a rebuilt kit. Which kit should I buy and how much do they cost. Also i need a rear rim to. My rim rusted about a 6 inch hole around the valve stem so its toast. 

 

 Click on picture to advance and see the rim repair.

 

http://public.fotki.com/DickL/tractor_parts/one_bottom_pull/961_ford_28_inch_rim_001.html

Edited by Dick L - 26 Sep 2010 at 5:32am