1938 Allis Chalmers B
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18655
Printed Date: 07 Feb 2025 at 6:05am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 1938 Allis Chalmers B
Posted By: Amish Electrician
Subject: 1938 Allis Chalmers B
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2010 at 10:32pm
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I have a 1938 model b that the motor is locked up on. It was my grandfathers that he gave to me. One day we started it up and it hadn't been run for almost a year. It fired right up and seemed to run great then we went into the house for a few minutes. Then we came back outside and the tractor was off we thought it just died. but when we went to start it again nothing locked up bad. So I went and put oil in the cylinders and wd-40 and pb blaster. let it all soak and nothing happened. I even tried pulling it down the road and popping the clutch still didn't break lose. So I am at the point of I don't know what to do. this all happened about 5 years ago. we moved out of state and im just getting the time to get back to it. So what do I do now???. what could be wrong??...I thought it could be a rob bearing froze up maybe a bent rob or something i Just don't know. Any help would be great..Thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: Ron(WA)
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2010 at 12:20am
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If what you say happened, you have bigger problems with the engine than PB blaster etc. will fix. Pulling it and dropping the clutch will not help anything, to be polite. I wonder if there was any oil in the crankcase when you started it. You probably have major motor seize problems such as bearings etc.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2010 at 7:00am
Welcome to the best tractor site on the web. It sounds like a tear down is in order. If you find major problems inside a grinding of the crank and complete overhaul kit would be a great investment for a family tractor. Charlie
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2010 at 9:26am
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It could be a valve stuck. You might want to take the valve cover off and see if all valves can be pushed down some before taking much apart. Even the open valves should move down more. If the tractor has not been weighted down one stuck valve will slide the tires without turning the engine. I assume that this tractor does not have a starter which can lock up on restart. Chances are that the oil pump had lost its prime which caused the problem. Unless a rod broke and has wedged itself in a way to block the crankshaft from turning you can (usually) get a seized crankshaft bearing to turn that has some running time on them after they cool down. That does not mean you wouldn't need to replace them. Setting five years lets moving parts get dry.
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Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2010 at 3:28pm
An engine that set for a long time without running is a candidate for water in the oil, gunk buildup in the oil pickup, oil pump loosing its prime, amonst other things; all are not good when it comes time to get it running again. You did not mention what the oil pressure was when you fired it up. If it had oil pressure it could be gunk plugging up the pickup and/or water in the oil being pumped thru the engine. It could be a stuck valve; however, I would suspect that the oil pump lost it's prime, the drive pin between the pump and the camshaft broke, or the oil sump screen got plugged. Trying to pull start a stuck engine to free it up can reult in bent push rods and connecting rods. An engine teardown is in order to ascertain the type, and extent, of the damage.
Sorry to hear about your misfortune; time to bite the bullet and get into the engine.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Posted By: Amish Electrician
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2010 at 5:36pm
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thanks for the help. I don't know about the oil pressure and this tractor does have a push button starter. I checked the oil after it died and it looked very discolored id say water in the oil. dumb of me not to check it before we started it. But i was only 13 at the time and really didn't know better and my grandfather is paralyzed from the waist down so he had other things he was thinking about..so basically im gonna have to tear it down and rebuilt it..I have never done this before so should i try the valve check first and then go from there or pull the oil pan and see whats up there??
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Posted By: Amish Electrician
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2010 at 5:38pm
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Also when i went to start it back up the battery was fully charged and when o pushed the button in all it would do was make a thud sound..and i also have a manual crank to neither would work
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Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2010 at 6:13pm
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Pull the head and push rods 1st, you will eliminate the valves. Try turning the engine with the hand crank, if still does not turn, you can pour some of your favorite penetrating oil on top of the pistons and let it soak down; periodically attempt to turn with the hand crank. If it frees up and turns, pull the oil pan and rod caps so you can tap the pistons up thru the top. You may need to obtain a ridge reamer to hone out the ridge on the top of the cylinders so that the pistons/rings can be pushed out the top. Now you can check out the rod bearings/journals and the cylinder walls. Pull the engine and place it on an engine stand to remove the crankshaft to check out the main bearings and journals and/or sleeves. New engine kits are readily available and include new pistons, sleeves. rings, wrist pins, rod and main bearings (you may need to take the crank in to machine the journals down; in which case you will need the correct O/S bearings), and gaskets.
Sounds like a lot of work (and it is; however, it is very enjoyable, especially for a tractor that belonged to a loved one), but is not all that difficult.
You should obtain an I&T manual (check "The Allis Store" link on this site for one) for the tractor before going to far as it is a great resource to go by as you get into the engine. You can also go to the AGCO Online Parts Book (link below) to see how the pieces are setup and to obtain the Allis (AGCO) part numbers of the needed parts, sign in as a guest to access the site.
http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/EpsilonWeb/login.aspx - http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/EpsilonWeb/login.aspx
There are also some great vendors who advertise in the "Parts,Inc" link on this site who can help you with parts and advice; Sandy Lake, OK Tractot, Tony Carbough, Norm, Albert at Dean Ag all come to mind.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 6:47am
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Before you take anything apart remove the starter and see if the engine is still locked up.
Or put it in third gear and pull it from the back or backwards and pop the clutch and see if it will turn over.
It would be a shame to tear every thing apart to find a stuck starter gear that had nothing to do with the inside of the engine.
Also check to see if you have any bolts that are in the side of the bell housing that could have caught a ring gear tooth. I have read on here or YT where someone had tightened a bolt on the side and then thouth the engine had locked up nt thinking one had anything to do with the other.
I am one for tearing down a locked engine rather than using some magic potion but not before checking all the outside things that could happen first.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 7:04am
Dick hit on 2 good points. First thing, pull the starter to make sure it hasn't climbed and bound on the flywheel ring gear. I am one of the guys that posted an oops on here about the bolt being too long and setscrewing the flywheel in place. I had made a bracket for the side of the tractor to help load my one row picker on the trailer. When I removed the bracket, I snugged the bolt up so it wouldn't vibrate loose. Nothing will vibrate loose if the engine won't turn over.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: morton(pa)
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 6:26pm
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Amish Electrician, would you happen to be located in Lancaster County? If so I might be able to come over and take a look at it. I know a few really good allis mechanics in the area that might be able to help you out if you can't do it yourself.
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Posted By: Amish Electrician
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 9:56pm
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Actually no i used to live in Ohio where the tractor is now. I currently live in Missouri. I talked to my uncle tonight he going to pull the starter and check the bolts to see if that makes a difference. If that does not work and i am for sure looking at a rebuilt kit. Which kit should I buy and how much do they cost. Also i need a rear rim to. My rim rusted about a 6 inch hole around the valve stem so its toast.
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Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 10:00pm
If you need a rebuild kit, check with one of the parts sponsors on this site. They'll do you right. Also, you can check their online parts catalogs to see pricing.
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 5:29am
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http://public.fotki.com/DickL/tractor_parts/one_bottom_pull/961_ford_28_inch_rim_001.html -
Click on picture to advance and see the rim repair.
http://public.fotki.com/DickL/tractor_parts/one_bottom_pull/961_ford_28_inch_rim_001.html
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