WC WD WD45 Steel flywheels?

Do u have  a plate made to bolt it up to trans...OR do u think it would bolt up direct...I wouild like to do that.. can get a 6 cyl  GMC  302  .. litle heaver..4in bore &  5 1/2 stroke.. if u can find one  they are a  horse  ...1953..

I have a WD with a 292 on it. It has a custom steel flywheel and ready to go. It is already built. It has between 275 and 300 hp.  It is for sale.  But if you are going to be held to 3000 rpms , you may be disappointed. It all depends on the cam.   L Hud

No we are not limited. Anything over 3000 has to have steel flywheels and scatter blanket. What did you do for a flywheel? Any info you have would be amazing. Or additional pictures of the tractor would help to.around the adapter area how the engine sits and the other side where the distributer is. I only have the 3 pictures i have found of your tractor and 3 other pictures of another tractor somone threw a 6 cylinder chevy in a WD for farm use. That is what i am going off of

bmartin55, The price is 4500 firm.  I looked for the pics on the board but could not find them. They are on here some where. All my pics are on another computer that is all virused up.     L Hud

Thanks for the info. I knew a lot of what I had to do to get it done but really wasn't sure about the flywheel situation. Were did you have yours done and what did it run you to have made if you can remember? I cant wait to start on this project. It will be a awesome tractor when its done.

Yea... I am pretty sure I will just have to have it done like that. Seems steel flywheel info is not very common for these motors, let alone a 292 swap. Does anyone know of a good shop to have one done and about the cost of it if they have done one?

The problem is the ring gear if you want to keep the original starter.  Getting the spacing right just requires measuring, figuring out where things are positioned in comparison to the back of the original engine, where the crankshaft flange is, how far it is to the clutch fingers or throw out bearing, where the ring gear is positioned depth wise and then converting it to the new engine and any adapter plate.

It's not rocket science but it is going to take some time to figure out.

I've made flat flywheels for the engines and spaced the ring gear to depth and welded it to the stands I made to hold the pressure plate away from the flywheel.  The ring gear isn't to thick so I made a ring for it to press on to and fit tight on the outside diameter of the stands I made to hold the pressure plate.  I figured out the hole positions for the pressure plate stands and poked the holes in with the milling machine so it fit accuratly on the stands.  I made a floater plate just the same so I can run a clutch disc on each side, there's plenty of room for 2 discs depth wise and it's a simple matter of doing some math once again to make it all work out.

I made a couple of them, saved one for myself and it's on the parts shelf, I'll try and take a picture of the assembly tomorrow and post it.

I've also made the flywheels out of a thick chunk, turned the dish in and made them close to resemble the original flywheel, put the ring gear on the outside just as the original.  You start with expensive material and cut most of it away.

I'd be willing to build one, but I would need the engine here and I could figure out just what it is going to take to do it, the dimensions of everything.  I probably wouldn't use a pressure plate from the old Allis either, but I'd use a 10 or 10.5" automotive one, build the stands and a flat flywheel to simplify things and use common parts.  I'm swamped with work and just don't have a lot of time but I could help you out as a last resort.

I don't think it will be that expensive to make something as long as a guy can design it to be simple, keep a flat flywheel and not use a pile of material.  I would just want to know how far the rear of the crankshaft flange is from the rear of the engine, add the thickness of your adapter plate and compare it to the original 201-226 engine dimensions of how far the rear flange of the engine is from the rear flange of the crankshaft.

We have a couple WD45 diesels in the shed I'll take a look at and see how thick the adapter plate is.  I have a couple rear plates off Gleaner E engines also that may be able to be used with a new engine bolt pattern, or as a template to make a nice thin plate from scratch. 

I've done this kind of thing in the past building a couple different engine and clutch can setups in our super stock, getting the thickness of the plate right to work with a certain depth flywheel or clutch can.  It's not to tough and a guy can always figure something out on one side or another to keep it cheap, simple and light.

The only potential issue I see is the input shaft pilot bearing, You may have to run a thicker flywheel if you wanted to run a flat flywheel to make an easy clutch system, or space the clutch wear surface off the flywheel and run a little hub to hold a pilot bearing.

Next time I talk to Carl out at Atlas I'll see how much he wants for a wear plate and floater plate.  He's alwayse been good to me on things.  A wear plate wouldn't be necessary in this type of application other than if I guy needed space things back to make it work out. 

It would be nice to build a twin disc setup, you need to keep the clutch disc smaller diameter if you want to run the stock starter and that engine won't make a mountain of torque so holding things with a 10" clutch isn't a problem but it would be nice to be able to slip it a little to get going to keep the RPM up when starting out.

Another option to simplify things is to use a ring gear around a steel front pulley on the engine and mount a starter on the front.  I made a setup to do that on our Case engine when we ran it in a narrow component chassis there simply wasn't room for a starter anywhere else.

Just wondering WI50 if you have time to throw up some pictures of the clutch setup you had on the shelf. Just would be nice to get a visual of what im going to have to do.