Pulling Forum - WC WD WD45 Steel flywheels?

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WC WD WD45 Steel flywheels?

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Topic: WC WD WD45 Steel flywheels?

Posted By: WCCLASON
Subject: WC WD WD45 Steel flywheels?
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2014 at 2:46pm

Does anyone know where or what is needed to make a Steel WD flywheel. I want to build a 292 chevy inline 6 and put in a WD and be able to spin high RPM. Are club says nothing over 3000rpm if it isnt a steel flywheels and has a scatter blanket. Im just in the planing and collecting parts stage of the build so nothing is to set in stone, but have almost everything i need already.

Any info would be great if somone knows where to get a steel flywheel or how to build one to work. Im sure if i had a stock flywheel infront of me i could figure somthing out but i dont.

Thanks again and any input.... That is good input on the suject....Would be great!

Replies:

Posted By: bmartin55
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2014 at 10:31pm

Do u have a plate made to bolt it up to trans...OR do u think it would bolt up direct...I wouild like to do that.. can get a 6 cyl GMC 302 .. litle heaver..4in bore & 5 1/2 stroke.. if u can find one they are a horse ...1953..

Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 9:38am

yea.... I have a 292 chevy already i just need to go pick it up. I am getting a WD45 diesel adapter plate to start with. If i can make that work i will use it as a template and build my own custome adapter plate. I want to be able to run a steel flywheel....but not getting much help or info on that. And i will have to make a adapter from the crank to the flywheel because i want to use the stock starter as well,

Part are so cheap for these motors and they run great. Plus the came in Gleaner F and k combines so i am some what keeping it Allis Chalmers.

The 302 does sound like alot of fun... how easy are parts to find for them??....that is another reason i am going with the 292.

Thanks for the input!

Posted By: L Hud
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 5:37pm

I have a WD with a 292 on it. It has a custom steel flywheel and ready to go. It is already built. It has between 275 and 300 hp. It is for sale. But if you are going to be held to 3000 rpms , you may be disappointed. It all depends on the cam. L Hud

Posted By: bmartin55
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 7:22pm

l hud....what u asking for ur tractor...our club has unlimetd rpm class..

Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 8:18pm

No we are not limited. Anything over 3000 has to have steel flywheels and scatter blanket. What did you do for a flywheel? Any info you have would be amazing. Or additional pictures of the tractor would help to.around the adapter area how the engine sits and the other side where the distributer is. I only have the 3 pictures i have found of your tractor and 3 other pictures of another tractor somone threw a 6 cylinder chevy in a WD for farm use. That is what i am going off of

Did you have to build a special clutch to hold the power? And have you had problems with the rear end not being able to take the power?

Like i said any info you can give would be great help and same me a head ache. I think i have talked to you on a diffrent post before about this Swap " L Hud"

Posted By: L Hud
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 8:53pm

You must make a adapter plate to go between the motor and the bellhousing. If you have some pics of mine you should be able to tell that it's 3/8 metal. The flywheel is a custom made one. It uses a allis clutch and pressure plate. Had one special made to hold it. It also is made so that you can use a allis starter. It weighs about 80 lbs. I don't have any pics on this computer. If you notice I removed the center section of the tractor and put the bellhousing directly to the trans. This moved the motor back about 18 in.

The 292 weighs less than the 4 cyl. the 302 will weigh a lot more. The 292 parts can be bought off the shelf. The 302 stuff is a lot machine work. Never had any trouble out trans or rearend or bull gears. I never abused it either. Let it get locked up and then hit it. It was a sweet ride. The times it was checked it ran about 15mph. Hope this helps. L Hud

Posted By: L Hud
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2014 at 9:00pm

bmartin55, The price is 4500 firm. I looked for the pics on the board but could not find them. They are on here some where. All my pics are on another computer that is all virused up. L Hud

Posted By: Hudsonator
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2014 at 2:18am

Hey Pa,

We need to get your videos transferred to DVD or something - so I can put them on YouTube.

Do you have any videos of the Custom pulling?

I'll try to get some pics of your tractor on here tomorrow night.

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There isn't much a WC can't do.

WD's just do it better.

Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2014 at 7:52am

Thanks for the info. I knew a lot of what I had to do to get it done but really wasn't sure about the flywheel situation. Were did you have yours done and what did it run you to have made if you can remember? I cant wait to start on this project. It will be a awesome tractor when its done.

Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2014 at 12:35pm

Find a machine shop. Take all the internal dimensions off the 292 flywheel and the external dimensions off the WD flywheel. Add in the difference of length ,knowing the thickness of the adapter plate and have one turned out of steel. It might sound like a lot of figuring, but it has to be planned out to work right.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2014 at 12:49pm

Yea... I am pretty sure I will just have to have it done like that. Seems steel flywheel info is not very common for these motors, let alone a 292 swap. Does anyone know of a good shop to have one done and about the cost of it if they have done one?

Posted By: L Hud
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2014 at 5:09pm

In the beginning we ran WD flywheels repunched to mate the Chevy crank. With the 3/8 adapter plate a 1/2 in. spacer had to be made for between the flywheel and crank. We got the diminsions off a WD flywheel and then added the spacer thickness to it. A machinist friend made the one for me. Best to use a late model 292 with 1/2 in crank bolts. Early ones use 7/16 bolts. The hunk of metal weighed about 160 lbs plus. When finished it weighed about 80 lbs. Good luck on the build. L Hud

Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2014 at 5:29pm

The problem is the ring gear if you want to keep the original starter. Getting the spacing right just requires measuring, figuring out where things are positioned in comparison to the back of the original engine, where the crankshaft flange is, how far it is to the clutch fingers or throw out bearing, where the ring gear is positioned depth wise and then converting it to the new engine and any adapter plate.

It's not rocket science but it is going to take some time to figure out.

I've made flat flywheels for the engines and spaced the ring gear to depth and welded it to the stands I made to hold the pressure plate away from the flywheel. The ring gear isn't to thick so I made a ring for it to press on to and fit tight on the outside diameter of the stands I made to hold the pressure plate. I figured out the hole positions for the pressure plate stands and poked the holes in with the milling machine so it fit accuratly on the stands. I made a floater plate just the same so I can run a clutch disc on each side, there's plenty of room for 2 discs depth wise and it's a simple matter of doing some math once again to make it all work out.

I made a couple of them, saved one for myself and it's on the parts shelf, I'll try and take a picture of the assembly tomorrow and post it.

I've also made the flywheels out of a thick chunk, turned the dish in and made them close to resemble the original flywheel, put the ring gear on the outside just as the original. You start with expensive material and cut most of it away.

I'd be willing to build one, but I would need the engine here and I could figure out just what it is going to take to do it, the dimensions of everything. I probably wouldn't use a pressure plate from the old Allis either, but I'd use a 10 or 10.5" automotive one, build the stands and a flat flywheel to simplify things and use common parts. I'm swamped with work and just don't have a lot of time but I could help you out as a last resort.

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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"

Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2014 at 6:25pm

Thank you guys alot. This should be a more common swap. like you said i was going to just restamp the original flywheel and build a space, Then i changed my mind to go ahead and run high RPM (over 3000) so i would have to come up with somthing.

The info you guys give me really helps. I have see a simular set up made for a m-450 farmall. it is about the only thing i can find some pictures of to get an idea.

WI50 ... Like you said i am getting my adapter plate in a few days. I bought a WD45 Diesel adpater to atleast get a better idea or maybe a start of an adapter plate. I will be picking up the motor here in a month or so when the weather gets better. I plan on building this through the summer so i have time to get it right and do a good job. I figured the flywheel is going to be pretty expensive.. not sure how much but know it will need to be done right.

I will keep in touch with you WI50 and maybe have you build it if you find time but we will see what happens in the spring when i have the parts infront of me and can do some designing.

Any way you could post a few pictures of that clutch your talking about and the way the ring gear is attached would help a lot.

The automotive flywheel idea is the one i was throwing around to. seemed like it would be the best way to go about it.

Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2014 at 12:12pm

I don't think it will be that expensive to make something as long as a guy can design it to be simple, keep a flat flywheel and not use a pile of material. I would just want to know how far the rear of the crankshaft flange is from the rear of the engine, add the thickness of your adapter plate and compare it to the original 201-226 engine dimensions of how far the rear flange of the engine is from the rear flange of the crankshaft.

We have a couple WD45 diesels in the shed I'll take a look at and see how thick the adapter plate is. I have a couple rear plates off Gleaner E engines also that may be able to be used with a new engine bolt pattern, or as a template to make a nice thin plate from scratch.

I've done this kind of thing in the past building a couple different engine and clutch can setups in our super stock, getting the thickness of the plate right to work with a certain depth flywheel or clutch can. It's not to tough and a guy can always figure something out on one side or another to keep it cheap, simple and light.

The only potential issue I see is the input shaft pilot bearing, You may have to run a thicker flywheel if you wanted to run a flat flywheel to make an easy clutch system, or space the clutch wear surface off the flywheel and run a little hub to hold a pilot bearing.

Next time I talk to Carl out at Atlas I'll see how much he wants for a wear plate and floater plate. He's alwayse been good to me on things. A wear plate wouldn't be necessary in this type of application other than if I guy needed space things back to make it work out.

It would be nice to build a twin disc setup, you need to keep the clutch disc smaller diameter if you want to run the stock starter and that engine won't make a mountain of torque so holding things with a 10" clutch isn't a problem but it would be nice to be able to slip it a little to get going to keep the RPM up when starting out.

Another option to simplify things is to use a ring gear around a steel front pulley on the engine and mount a starter on the front. I made a setup to do that on our Case engine when we ran it in a narrow component chassis there simply wasn't room for a starter anywhere else.

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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"

Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2014 at 12:40pm

Sounds great.. A lot of good info. See what all he would want for that stuff. Like I said I still need to go pick up the motor im going to use and my adapter plate is on its way so I will know in a few days the thickness.
This all seems like the best way to build one for sure. Would it maybe be possible to build a spacer hub(If needed) behind the flat style flywheel and build a spot in the center of that to hold a pilot bearing? It just sounded like a option. Thanks a ton for the input though. What would you start with? Something like a 10.5 Chevy flywheel and cu it down to the OD of a stock WD45 flywheel? Just curious what you would do.
Thanks again

Posted By: WCCLASON
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2014 at 6:38pm

Just wondering WI50 if you have time to throw up some pictures of the clutch setup you had on the shelf. Just would be nice to get a visual of what im going to have to do.

Thanks a ton because i know your swamped and all. It would help more that you would know. I may just have you build it later this year if things dont work out on my end.

Thanks for your help.