series 11 D10

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   I have a series 11 D-10. I have been slowly fixing things that need fixed and am on the leaks repair. Most are now fixed but I have a couple questions. Are the  3 point hitch cylinders made in 2 pieces? I have a leak on one cylinder and it isn't the packing and it isn't the hose or connection. The raised part of the cylinder will always have a few drops ready to drop. I put a diaper around it between the packing and where the raised part join the body. The diaper never shows any fluid on it but the raised part always is "wet" telling me that it must be a 2 part cylinder and is leaking there.  Another "leak" is showing up on the draw bar anchor/3 point lift arm anchor. It has 2 1" bolts that go up into the bottom of the housing. I see nothing that should be where a leak could come from but that anchor point is always "wet" I don't have a repair manuel and don't know where to find an online manuel so can someone help me find these leaks?
 Thanks, Nat

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Nat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Lexington NC Points: 141	Post Options Post Reply Quote Nat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: series 11 D10 Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 4:27pm
	I have a series 11 D-10. I have been slowly fixing things that need fixed and am on the leaks repair. Most are now fixed but I have a couple questions. Are the 3 point hitch cylinders made in 2 pieces? I have a leak on one cylinder and it isn't the packing and it isn't the hose or connection. The raised part of the cylinder will always have a few drops ready to drop. I put a diaper around it between the packing and where the raised part join the body. The diaper never shows any fluid on it but the raised part always is "wet" telling me that it must be a 2 part cylinder and is leaking there. Another "leak" is showing up on the draw bar anchor/3 point lift arm anchor. It has 2 1" bolts that go up into the bottom of the housing. I see nothing that should be where a leak could come from but that anchor point is always "wet" I don't have a repair manuel and don't know where to find an online manuel so can someone help me find these leaks? Thanks, Nat
	Nat

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Alvin M Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 24 Jun 2018 Location: PA Points: 762	Post Options Post Reply Quote Alvin M Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 5:04pm
	Go on AGCO Parts books.com you can see brake down on the cylinders there are two different ones

DiyDave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 51553	Post Options Post Reply Quote DiyDave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 6:04pm
	IIRR, them bolts should be 3/4". Somebody probably let them get loose, and they stripped out. Then repaired by threading, and installing bigger bolts. Again, IIRR, these bolts go right up into the housing, holding oil. Its possible that oil is wicking its way down the threads, and out...
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Nat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Lexington NC Points: 141	Post Options Post Reply Quote Nat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 6:32pm
	I got on the parts break down and the cylinders are 2 piece but no info on how to stop a leak where they join. I guess I'll take it off, put in vise and see if I can tighten it.
	Nat

Nat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Lexington NC Points: 141	Post Options Post Reply Quote Nat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 6:37pm
	dave, It does appear that these two bolts were not tight. I will replace the bolts with new ones, I've never had much luck re torqueing bolts that have been run loose. There is also a 5/8 threaded stud sticking down from the bottom of the housing that goes thru the lift arm anchor part but it doesn't have a nut on it nor does it appear to be holding anything. I can't tell what it is on the parts breakdown in the ACCO book. Do you know what it's purpose is
	Nat

Nat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Lexington NC Points: 141	Post Options Post Reply Quote Nat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 1:33pm
	Often on here people ask for help or tell about a problem but never thank people for the help or tell what they finally did to fix the problem, so others have to go thru the same thing. I don't want to be one of those, SO! The leak from the cylinder came from where the head screwed onto the body of the cylinder. All it took was tightening. That wasn't as easy as it sounds because there isn't any good way to get to it. I ended up putting a big pipe wrench on it and using a 2x4 from the final drive and against the bottom of the pipe wrench. It probably didn't turn 1/4 turn but it was enough to stop that leak. The leak under the 3 point hitch anchor was cause by fluid leaking around the threads of a 3/4 inch stud that holds the T-bar in place until the swinging draw bar anchor is bolted in place. Thanks for the help and info, especially Larry in NC. There is a world of info on here if we take the time to use it and it will always be there as long as the givers of the info think that the info is appreciated. THANKS, Nat
	Nat

DiyDave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 51553	Post Options Post Reply Quote DiyDave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 6:11pm
	There should be 3 bolts or studs, all pointing down, from the housing, all the same size, and all hold the 3 point bracket in place, IIRR. Again, IIRR, there may be an ear missing, on your 3 point bracket... The reason why the D-10/12 factory 3 pt has a bad rep, is that all the bolts are in the up and down plane, and lifting/lowering loosens these bolts...
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Nat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Lexington NC Points: 141	Post Options Post Reply Quote Nat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 6:35pm
	It appears that the studs that go thru the swinging draw bar also had gotten loose and someone removed them and drilled them out to 1" so now they go into the bottom of the housing. It has the draft control /traction booster option and has the T-bar that also has o bolt that screws into the bottom of the housing about a foot in front of the other holes. Since I put a nut and washer on the stud sticking down and tightened it, the leak has stopped. Fluid must have been seeping down around the threads
	Nat