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series 11 D10

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=161665
Printed Date: 31 Oct 2024 at 11:38pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: series 11 D10
Posted By: Nat
Subject: series 11 D10
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 4:27pm
I have a series 11 D-10. I have been slowly fixing things that need fixed and am on the leaks repair. Most are now fixed but I have a couple questions. Are the  3 point hitch cylinders made in 2 pieces? I have a leak on one cylinder and it isn't the packing and it isn't the hose or connection. The raised part of the cylinder will always have a few drops ready to drop. I put a diaper around it between the packing and where the raised part join the body. The diaper never shows any fluid on it but the raised part always is "wet" telling me that it must be a 2 part cylinder and is leaking there. 
 Another "leak" is showing up on the draw bar anchor/3 point lift arm anchor. It has 2 1" bolts that go up into the bottom of the housing. I see nothing that should be where a leak could come from but that anchor point is always "wet" I don't have a repair manuel and don't know where to find an online manuel so can someone help me find these leaks?
 Thanks, Nat



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Nat



Replies:
Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 5:04pm
Go on AGCO Parts books.com you can see brake down on the cylinders there are two different ones


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 6:04pm
IIRR, them bolts should be 3/4".  Somebody probably let them get loose, and they stripped out.  Then repaired by threading, and installing bigger bolts.  Again, IIRR, these bolts go right up into the housing, holding oil.  Its possible that oil is wicking its way down the threads, and out...Wink

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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: Nat
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 6:32pm
I got on the parts break down and the cylinders are 2 piece but no info on how to stop a leak where they join. I guess I'll take it off, put in vise and see if I can tighten it.

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Nat


Posted By: Nat
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2019 at 6:37pm
dave, It does appear that these two bolts were not tight. I will replace the bolts with new ones, I've never had much luck re torqueing bolts that have been run loose. There is also a 5/8 threaded stud sticking down from the bottom of the housing that goes thru the lift arm anchor part but it doesn't have a nut on it nor does it appear to be holding anything. I can't tell what it is on the parts breakdown in the ACCO book. Do you know what it's purpose is

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Nat


Posted By: Nat
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 1:33pm
Often on here people ask for help or tell about a problem but never thank people for the help or tell what they finally did to fix the problem,  so others have to go thru the same thing. I don't want to be one of those, SO! The leak from the cylinder came from where the head screwed onto the body of the cylinder. All it took was tightening. That wasn't as easy as it sounds because there isn't any good way to get to it. I ended up putting a big pipe wrench on it and using a 2x4 from the final drive and against the bottom of the pipe wrench. It probably didn't turn 1/4 turn but it was enough to stop that leak. The leak under the 3 point hitch anchor was cause by fluid leaking around the threads of a 3/4 inch stud that holds the T-bar in place until the swinging draw bar anchor is bolted in place. Thanks for the help and info, especially Larry in NC. There is a world of info on here if we take the time to use it and it will always be there as long as the givers of the info think that the info is appreciated. THANKS, Nat



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Nat


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 6:11pm
There should be 3 bolts or studs, all pointing down, from the housing, all the same size, and all hold the 3 point bracket in place, IIRR. Again, IIRR, there may be an ear missing, on your 3 point bracket...  The reason why the D-10/12 factory 3 pt has a bad rep, is that all the bolts are in the up and down plane, and lifting/lowering loosens these bolts...Wink

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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!


Posted By: Nat
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2019 at 6:35pm
It appears that the studs that go thru the swinging draw bar also had gotten loose and someone removed them and drilled them out to 1" so now they go into the bottom of the housing. It has the draft control /traction booster option and has the T-bar that also has o bolt that screws into the bottom of the housing about a foot in front of the other holes. Since I put a nut and washer on the stud sticking down and tightened it, the leak has stopped. Fluid must have been seeping down around the threads



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Nat



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