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Bodin 
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Joined: 04 Mar 2018
Location: Mackenzie
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 Topic: Series 1 gas d17 won't start
Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 3:43pm |
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Changed circulating heater and burped system would not start
Put in new battery had to boost got tractor running moved bale shut off for a week went to start again won't start
Put in newseliniod and new starter tries to turn over then clicks
Tried boosting get a grrr ere then click
Help please
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 4:07pm |
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Sounds like a dead battery. Sounds like new battery was never fully charged or there is something running the battery down when sitting. Disconnect the ground cable and charge battery on low charge for 24 hrs where it is warm--60 degrees F or more.
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Bodin
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Location: Mackenzie
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Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 4:09pm |
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Thank you will try
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
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Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 4:14pm |
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What's a circulating heater? Do you mean an external block heater?
Sounds like you have a bad battery or something is on and killing it. A possible drain.
Is it a 6 or 12 volt system?
Charge the battery up and DISCONNECT it from the tractor. Go back a week later and connect the cable you disconnected and try to start it. Does it turn over really nice or just go grrrr. If it's the grrrrr your battery is NO good. 6 volt batteries can sit on the shelf for so long that they are no good by the time someone gets around to buying it.
Dr Allis, you're faster than me...
Edited by Ted J - 04 Mar 2018 at 4:16pm
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Boss Man
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Joined: 03 Mar 2018
Location: Greenleaf, WI
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Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 6:04pm |
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Check your cables. I had a ground cable go bad. Put a new cable on and started right up.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
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Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:22pm |
Or battery cable(s), or connector at one end or the other is bad. After you've tried cranking it, feel the connections from battery post all the way to solenoid, and positive post all the way to ground connection. If any are warm, you have too much resistance there. (oops... Boss Man beat me to it)... so I'll second his motion.... 
Edited by DaveKamp - 04 Mar 2018 at 8:23pm
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Bodin
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Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 9:56am |
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12 volt system
Bought me battery cables
Will put on after work
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Bodin
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Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 9:58am |
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Tried starting with boost
Just clickes
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
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Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 10:34am |
A bad battery cable connection or a bad ground where the starter bolts to the block. Either would cause this.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
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Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 11:09am |
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Do a voltage drop test. Start from the battery post and not the clamp. Pos probe on the post, neg probe at the clamp, read meter while trying to crank. Do the same thing all the way to the starter post. If you find more than .5 volt reading while cranking, you have unwanted resistance. If you never find much voltage drop on each cable in the circuit, and the battery is good and fully charged, time for starter rebuild.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Stan R
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Location: MA
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Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 11:14am |
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Got another vehicle and person so as to pull start it? If it runs with a pull, that eliminates a lot of things.
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