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Series 1 gas d17 won't start

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=148168
Printed Date: 31 Oct 2024 at 11:29pm
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Topic: Series 1 gas d17 won't start
Posted By: Bodin
Subject: Series 1 gas d17 won't start
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 3:43pm
Changed circulating heater and burped system would not start
Put in new battery had to boost got tractor running moved bale shut off for a week went to start again won't start
Put in newseliniod and new starter tries to turn over then clicks
Tried boosting get a grrr ere then click
Help please



Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 4:07pm
Sounds like a dead battery.  Sounds like new battery was never fully charged or there is something running the battery down when sitting. Disconnect the ground cable and charge battery on low charge for 24 hrs where it is warm--60 degrees F or more.


Posted By: Bodin
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 4:09pm
Thank you will try


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 4:14pm
What's a circulating heater?  Do you mean an external block heater?
Sounds like you have a bad battery or something is on and killing it.  A possible drain.
Is it a 6 or 12 volt system?
Charge the battery up and DISCONNECT it from the tractor.  Go back a week later and connect the cable you disconnected and try to start it.  Does it turn over really nice or just go grrrr.  If it's the grrrrr your battery is NO good.  6 volt batteries can sit on the shelf for so long that they are no good by the time someone gets around to buying it.

Dr Allis, you're faster than me...


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 6:04pm
Check your cables. I had a ground cable go bad. Put a new cable on and started right up.


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2018 at 8:22pm
Or battery cable(s), or connector at one end or the other is bad.  After you've tried cranking it, feel the connections from battery post all the way to solenoid, and positive post all the way to ground connection.  If any are warm, you have too much resistance there.

(oops... Boss Man beat me to it)... so I'll second his motion....Wink


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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.


Posted By: Bodin
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 9:56am
12 volt system
Bought me battery cables
Will put on after work


Posted By: Bodin
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 9:58am
Tried starting with boost
Just clickes


Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 10:34am
A bad battery cable connection or a bad ground where the starter bolts to the block. Either would cause this.


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 11:09am
Do a voltage drop test. Start from the battery post and not the clamp. Pos probe on the post, neg probe at the clamp, read meter while trying to crank. Do the same thing all the way to the starter post. If you find more than .5 volt reading while cranking, you have unwanted resistance. If you never find much voltage drop on each cable in the circuit, and the battery is good and fully charged, time for starter rebuild.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2018 at 11:14am
Got another vehicle and person so as to pull start it? If it runs with a pull, that eliminates a lot of things.



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