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Gasoline or additives?

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CB-Man View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:04am

I had a friend ask me the other day if i put any lead additives in the fuel for the D 14 i just got?  What type of gasoline or additives are you using?  Is just regular unlead fine?

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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:54am
I've bee using the 10% ethanol that comes out of the pump since it was available. Never added anything and never had a problem.

Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 11 Apr 2011 at 9:56am
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Goose View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goose Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:56am
I think we had a discussion about lead additives on this forum before. I think the majority of forum members thought lead additives were a waste of money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 11:11am
Your low RPM Low compression old technoligy engine will not benifit from any additives. If you have never run 10% ethanol gas you may need to keep cleaning your sidiment bowl untill the tank is cleaned out. Don't let the bulb get more than a thin layer of crud in the bottom or it goes into the carb than a cleaning is in your future. I know guys that have run a C on 100% corn juice with no problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 11:40am
Manual probably calls for 70 octane or better. Today's worst pump gas is 87 octane. Like super premium for the vintage engine.

Tetraethyl lead was used to increase the octane performance (anti knock) of junk quality raw gasoline. Some claim it also lubricated valve seats. Some have tried other lubricants for valve seats. There are motor honeys on the market claiming benefits, but most are benefits only to the vendor's bank account. If they really supplied lead they would be illegal in today's environment.

Most vintage engines were built with hardened valves and seats and need no extra lubrication from lead in the fuel. Besides even with soft seats, hobby operation of a tractor won't wear the valves, only working at full throttle for weeks at a time could show wear eventually.

Gerald J.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 11:49am
I've used E-85 in my CA in the past. My thoughts are those "lead replacement" additives are snake oil. Dave's right on about if you have a dirty fuel system, the ethanol fuel will start cleaning it out.
One problem I had with my CA when I first got it was the carb kept getting clogged. It had a new sediment bowl on it. Turns out there was that hard crusty stuff left from bad fuel drying up in the line between the carb and bowl. I fabbed up a new line and didn't have anymore trouble. As easy and cheap as it is to make a new line, might be worth it to make one and maybe avoid problems.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tricky Dickie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 12:07pm
Modern gasoline is fine - just turn the fuel off before stopping the engine and let the carburettor empty. You'll have no problems at all!
 
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wkpoor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wkpoor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 12:55pm
Worse thing about modern fuel is it doesn't sit well. I have a source for AvGas so I basically have no fuel issues other than I don't put more in a tank than I'm going to use because in evaporates real fast. If not in a sealed container it goes away quick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 1:47pm
The only additive I tell my customer's to use in their Tractors is dry gas. This keeps the condensation in check, (especially in summer months) and keeps the fuel free of water, & tanks free of rust In time, that water will lay on the bottom of those cast iron carburetors we use and start to rust. Incoming fuel and a Tractor with no suspension stirs that rust up, and before you know it, troubles start a brewin'.  I even use dry gas in my small equipment engines tanks. Never had any troubles with any of those either. A clean fuel system is a happy fuel system...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CB-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 5:58pm
Thanks for the replies guys.  My friend just wondered due to the fact these tractors were built back when lead was still in gasoline.  It sounds like some run the ethanol blended gasoline.  I know that can cause damage in cars that are not rated for it as it can cause hoses to deteriorate.  Those running it have you upgraded the fuel lines?  Just wanted to make sure running the regular 87-89 octane through it would be fine.  Seems like running an ethanol blend or some dry gas to keep water down is a good idea.
thanks everyone.
Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Josh(NE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 6:59pm
I would guess dry gas would be a good idea if you were using a ethanol blend. For regular gas that doesn't store well I like to add a bit of octane booser. It seams to help with cold starts in the winter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Josh(NE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 7:07pm
Originally posted by Gerald J. Gerald J. wrote:

Manual probably calls for 70 octane or better. Today's worst pump gas is 87 octane. Like super premium for the vintage engine.

Tetraethyl lead was used to increase the octane performance (anti knock) of junk quality raw gasoline. Some claim it also lubricated valve seats. Some have tried other lubricants for valve seats. There are motor honeys on the market claiming benefits, but most are benefits only to the vendor's bank account. If they really supplied lead they would be illegal in today's environment.

Most vintage engines were built with hardened valves and seats and need no extra lubrication from lead in the fuel. Besides even with soft seats, hobby operation of a tractor won't wear the valves, only working at full throttle for weeks at a time could show wear eventually.

Gerald J.
I'm not sure when, or what tractors you are refering to, But my factory Allis operating manual for my 170 calls for at least 91 octane.
Allis Express
'65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 7:22pm
Gasoline octane was around 70 back in the late 30's when the Oliver model 70 tractor was introduced. According to T. Herb Morrell's book on Oliver tractors, gasoline was expected to reach 70 octane so Oliver had an engine designed to take advantage of it. That is where the "70" designation came from.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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