Gasoline or additives?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28929
Printed Date: 03 Mar 2025 at 10:48am
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Topic: Gasoline or additives?
Posted By: CB-Man
Subject: Gasoline or additives?
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:04am
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I had a friend ask me the other day if i put any lead additives in the fuel for the D 14 i just got? What type of gasoline or additives are you using? Is just regular unlead fine? |
Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:54am
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I've bee using the 10% ethanol that comes out of the pump since it was available. Never added anything and never had a problem.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 9:56am
| I think we had a discussion about lead additives on this forum before. I think the majority of forum members thought lead additives were a waste of money. |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 11:11am
| Your low RPM Low compression old technoligy engine will not benifit from any additives. If you have never run 10% ethanol gas you may need to keep cleaning your sidiment bowl untill the tank is cleaned out. Don't let the bulb get more than a thin layer of crud in the bottom or it goes into the carb than a cleaning is in your future. I know guys that have run a C on 100% corn juice with no problems. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 11:40am
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Manual probably calls for 70 octane or better. Today's worst pump gas is 87 octane. Like super premium for the vintage engine. Tetraethyl lead was used to increase the octane performance (anti knock) of junk quality raw gasoline. Some claim it also lubricated valve seats. Some have tried other lubricants for valve seats. There are motor honeys on the market claiming benefits, but most are benefits only to the vendor's bank account. If they really supplied lead they would be illegal in today's environment. Most vintage engines were built with hardened valves and seats and need no extra lubrication from lead in the fuel. Besides even with soft seats, hobby operation of a tractor won't wear the valves, only working at full throttle for weeks at a time could show wear eventually. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 11:49am
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I've used E-85 in my CA in the past. My thoughts are those "lead replacement" additives are snake oil. Dave's right on about if you have a dirty fuel system, the ethanol fuel will start cleaning it out.
One problem I had with my CA when I first got it was the carb kept getting clogged. It had a new sediment bowl on it. Turns out there was that hard crusty stuff left from bad fuel drying up in the line between the carb and bowl. I fabbed up a new line and didn't have anymore trouble. As easy and cheap as it is to make a new line, might be worth it to make one and maybe avoid problems. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Tricky Dickie
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 12:07pm
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Modern gasoline is fine - just turn the fuel off before stopping the engine and let the carburettor empty. You'll have no problems at all!
Tricky Dickie
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Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 12:55pm
| Worse thing about modern fuel is it doesn't sit well. I have a source for AvGas so I basically have no fuel issues other than I don't put more in a tank than I'm going to use because in evaporates real fast. If not in a sealed container it goes away quick. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 1:47pm
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The only additive I tell my customer's to use in their Tractors is dry gas. This keeps the condensation in check, (especially in summer months) and keeps the fuel free of water, & tanks free of rust In time, that water will lay on the bottom of those cast iron carburetors we use and start to rust. Incoming fuel and a Tractor with no suspension stirs that rust up, and before you know it, troubles start a brewin'. I even use dry gas in my small equipment engines tanks. Never had any troubles with any of those either. A clean fuel system is a happy fuel system...
mailto:Steve@B&B - Steve@B&B
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Posted By: CB-Man
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 5:58pm
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Thanks for the replies guys. My friend just wondered due to the fact these tractors were built back when lead was still in gasoline. It sounds like some run the ethanol blended gasoline. I know that can cause damage in cars that are not rated for it as it can cause hoses to deteriorate. Those running it have you upgraded the fuel lines? Just wanted to make sure running the regular 87-89 octane through it would be fine. Seems like running an ethanol blend or some dry gas to keep water down is a good idea.
thanks everyone.
Brian
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Posted By: Josh(NE)
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 6:59pm
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I would guess dry gas would be a good idea if you were using a ethanol blend. For regular gas that doesn't store well I like to add a bit of octane booser. It seams to help with cold starts in the winter. ------------- Allis Express '65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake |
Posted By: Josh(NE)
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 7:07pm
------------- Allis Express '65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake |
Gerald J. wrote:Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2011 at 7:22pm
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Gasoline octane was around 70 back in the late 30's when the Oliver model 70 tractor was introduced. According to T. Herb Morrell's book on Oliver tractors, gasoline was expected to reach 70 octane so Oliver had an engine designed to take advantage of it. That is where the "70" designation came from. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |