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GaryL's Model B Build Thread - Take a Peek
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GaryL View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Jan 2015
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Points: 704 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GaryL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 7:32am
Originally posted by Thad in AR. Thad in AR. wrote:

Gary, I didn't replace the pin on mine. I lucked in to a NOS shaft from a friend, Tracy Martin on the forum makes new pins and could probably tell you how it's done. I've been looking for pics and haven't found them yet. I wish I could remember what I did for the bearing at the bottom. I'll keep looking for the pics. Keep this bumped or start a thread on the steering box and others will also be able to help with parts and advice.

Thanks again, Thad.

BTW: Is the ended being boogered up going to be an issue?  It looks like a pressed-in retainer that can't be removed now due to the housing being distorted.



Edited by GaryL - 24 Jul 2016 at 7:32am
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Dan73 View Drop Down
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If you need to get that out I think a good machinist could clean it up and pull it out they might need to clean the bore and sleeve it depending on how bad it is but it looks totally salvageable to me.
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I inspected the steering shaft today to see what it would take to remove the pin and noticed it has been ground on the backside.  There aren't any signs of a hole, so I'm wondering if this is the correct shaft or if this box is even worth salvaging. 
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Originally posted by GaryL GaryL wrote:

 

BTW: Is the ended being boogered up going to be an issue?  It looks like a pressed-in retainer that can't be removed now due to the housing being distorted.

Stick a big screw driver or a pry bar in under that seal and pry it out. Then file any burrs out of the bore and make a slight chamfer on it. A die grinder with a light hand would be real handy for this.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Points: 9597 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 7:03pm
Gary I looked through all the B parts I could find and didn't see any steering box parts. I found a good complete box for a C but It won't fit your B. I'm still looking for pics.
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I have an extra steering box, I don't know if it is good or not, it might not be, but it might still have the bearings or whatever else you might need. PM me if you are interested....
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the Allis B steering box?
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Gary, here is one I rebuilt some time ago. Hope it helps.
Also it is not recommended to use grease (I see the grease fitting).
Remove the grease fitting and install a 1/4" pipe plug, use heavy gear oil.




 
 
Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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Gary, This diagram is for B&C disregard the parts on the lower left they are for a C.
Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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Originally posted by wbecker wbecker wrote:

Gary, here is one I rebuilt some time ago. Hope it helps.
Also it is not recommended to use grease (I see the grease fitting).
Remove the grease fitting and install a 1/4" pipe plug, use heavy gear oil.





I'm going to be noisy where can you get the bushings and that knob (idk the correct name) that on the end of the steering shaft from? I'm going to have to rebuild mine before long.
 
 
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Originally posted by wbecker wbecker wrote:

Gary, here is one I rebuilt some time ago. Hope it helps.
Also it is not recommended to use grease (I see the grease fitting).
Remove the grease fitting and install a 1/4" pipe plug, use heavy gear oil.





I'm going to be noisy where can you get the bushings and that knob (idk the correct name) that on the end of the steering shaft from? I'm going to have to rebuild mine before long.
 
 
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Originally posted by wbecker wbecker wrote:

Gary, here is one I rebuilt some time ago. Hope it helps.
Also it is not recommended to use grease (I see the grease fitting).
Remove the grease fitting and install a 1/4" pipe plug, use heavy gear oil.

 

Thank you for both posts.  That's exactly the information I am looking for.

As far as using oil or grease, I found a Jeep forum where someone details rebuilding a Ross steering box in a late-50s Jeep.  He filled it with a mix of oil as was done in the era.  A steering box discussion came up on an air-cooled VW forum I frequent, and one person who deals with various industrial chemicals stated John Deer Corn Head Grease is perfect for steering boxes.  I'm planning to use the Corn Head grease and will do a write-up of my rebuild.

Thanks again.
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I think I got the bushing from MotionIndustrys.com you could get them from any bearing supply.
The Stud or Pin as it's sometimes called, I get from the John Deere dealer, it's for the Ross steering gear in the Model M, part number AM1515T. I have also gotten them from Tracy Martin.
Bill B
Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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Sorry about the double post I was trying to do to many things at once lol, Explains why I couldn't think of pin too lol. As far as the corn head grease it works OK but I have trouble with it working out of the steering box between the tube and the box, I'm going back with oil as sone as I get it where it will hold some.
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This is the mess corn head grease makes
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Cornhead grease won't make a mess if you have no leaks and DON"T pump the box full with pressure. If cornhead grease gets out, gear oil will easier.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Cornhead grease won't make a mess if you have no leaks and DON"T pump the box full with pressure. If cornhead grease gets out, gear oil will easier.

Corn head grease is better that regular gun grease, but what I'm geting at is I think that gear oil is much better expecially if your going threw the trouble of rebuilding it frist. Iv tryed it both ways and it seams to me that oil steers easier.
I may have over filled mine with grease too, I wasn't sure how much to use so I put I think 10 or 12 pumps. It work fairly well for a few months before it started leaking, but I use my b to mow with weekly too so that my have something to do with it too
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Well I put regular grease gun grease in my CA when I put a bearing in the pedestal and with the Woods mower hanging underneath, I could steer it with one finger, Grease in the pedestal and the gear box. Dad put the grease zerk in the gearbox probably over 50 years ago and it has never been rebuilt, it just wouldn't hold gear lube anymore.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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The adjusting screw Looks like it's been mashed quite a bit.  It won't back out of the hole -- I had to screw it all the way in to remove it from the cover.  I can't remember if that's normal or not.  It was almost flush with the nut, so I'm wondering if I should replace it while I'm dismantling everything.
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No need to replace it, just push the leading edge of the thread against a grinding wheel at a 45 degree angle, while you turn it a few times. Use a nut to check the threads before putting it back in.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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If it was flush, it may be too short after you put a 45 on it, so you may have to get one from a good hardware store.
Bill B
Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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Originally posted by wbecker wbecker wrote:

If it was flush, it may be too short after you put a 45 on it, so you may have to get one from a good hardware store.
Bill B

That's what I figured.  Normally, the adjusting screw should be proud of the lock nut by at least ¼" - 5/16" assuming the steering box has been properly maintained during its lifetime.  Based on the photos I have posted, it's obvious to see mine hasn't.

Just another items on my list for my trip to ACE Hardware.
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I've searched the forum for how to replace the mesh material in the air cleaner and am a bit confused.  

1) Are there a few spot-welds to be drilled?
2) What kind of oil is used?
3) Is there anything that should be inside the mushroom cap?  The one on my tractor is empty.
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Mushroom caps normally have a corse screen to keep big bugs out. Typically the mess is held in by a metal thing that is spot welded to the container. But normally you can blow them out with air and soak them in diesel fuel and clean them without disassembly.   If you have to take them apart the screens can be cleaned. As to oil just about anything will do I use 30 weight same stuff I use for motor oil just fill it to the fill line and check it once in a while if it looks bad water or dust dump it out and fill it up fresh.
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Originally posted by Dan73 Dan73 wrote:

Mushroom caps normally have a corse screen to keep big bugs out. Typically the mess is held in by a metal thing that is spot welded to the container. But normally you can blow them out with air and soak them in diesel fuel and clean them without disassembly.   If you have to take them apart the screens can be cleaned. As to oil just about anything will do I use 30 weight same stuff I use for motor oil just fill it to the fill line and check it once in a while if it looks bad water or dust dump it out and fill it up fresh.

Is there any way to replace the missing mesh in the cap?  Also, a source & nomenclature for said material?  I've not seen anything other than this --> http://www.steinertractor.com/ABC422-filter-element-oil-bath-air-cleaner
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Farmer fix. Put a piece of panty hose over the mushroom cap in dusty conditions. Tape it securely to the Air Cleaner Pipe. If keeping the
Dirt dauber wasps out becomes a problem leave the panty hose on all the time.
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Originally posted by Ken in Texas Ken in Texas wrote:

Farmer fix. Put a piece of panty hose over the mushroom cap in dusty conditions. Tape it securely to the Air Cleaner Pipe. If keeping the
Dirt dauber wasps out becomes a problem leave the panty hose on all the time.

Oh brother!  Now I'll have to order pantyhose online so I don't get any odd looks LOL

Meanwhile, I sourced the oil seal for the steering box (SKF 9838 - Steering Gear Pitman Shaft Seal) from Rock Auto for $5.50 versus $10+ from many other sources.  I also have a replacement steering pin.

I was able to contact Midwest Steering as a source for parts.  Unfortunately, the bearings and races cost $68/kit (2 kits needed) and some shims can be purchased used.  I need to call Matt Scott to see if he happens to have parts (no response to e-mail).  I was hoping to have all the parts I need by Labor Day.


Edited by GaryL - 28 Aug 2016 at 2:47pm
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Originally posted by wbecker wbecker wrote:

If it was flush, it may be too short after you put a 45 on it, so you may have to get one from a good hardware store.
Bill B


It may be easier to get a new one a bit longer, but beveling the leading edge of the thread will NOT change the length of this one.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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You could weld any somewhat course screen to the bottom of the mushroom cap. As I recall it is typically a screen with holes about the size of your pinky.
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Originally posted by Dan73 Dan73 wrote:

You could weld any somewhat course screen to the bottom of the mushroom cap. As I recall it is typically a screen with holes about the size of your pinky.

I think that the holes in mine are smaller, but I would have to go look to make sure. I could get a picture if you want one.
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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