GaryL's Model B Build Thread - Take a Peek
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=114022
Printed Date: 24 Jun 2024 at 8:52am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: GaryL's Model B Build Thread - Take a Peek
Posted By: GaryL
Subject: GaryL's Model B Build Thread - Take a Peek
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2015 at 1:16pm
|
Although I've had to pause in work on my WD due to school and job requirements, I have been considering another tractor for both play and smaller jobs. That led me to believe a Model B, with a belly mower, would be perfect for maintaining my pastures as well as the ditches. I may even look for other implements for future use. I found this project tractor on Craigslist and have inquired if it is still for sale. Feedback is appreciated. 
|
For sale is a allis chalmers b parts tractor. Most everything is there
except the head, and it set outside without a head for years before I
got it. It came in a package deal and I don't really need it. I have
most of the sheet metal but it's rough and the gas tank is trash. But
it's got what appears to be a good transmission and rear end. I just
can't stand to take this thing to theReplies:
Posted By: ksbowhunter
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2015 at 7:06am
|
Gary You might be interested in this one unless you are set on a B. http://tulsa.craigslist.org/grd/5294362075.html" rel="nofollow - http://tulsa.craigslist.org/grd/5294362075.html ------------- 2-37 WC 37 wf127 37 wf130 |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2015 at 7:30am
|
Gary, That is a big project for sure! It can be done just need lots of time, parts and dollars. Brush hog on the WD might work just as good? My 2 cents. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2015 at 8:17am
Oooohhhhh. Thanks for that. I may have to follow up on those two.
That's the plan, but in some cases a smaller tractor will be more appropriate. Besides, I like playing with tractors  |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 8:16am
| I finally heard back from the seller on the B. Am waiting to talk with him a bit later today. |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 8:36am
|
don't get in to big a hurry to find what your looking for. with scrap prices low you can get more of what your needing to start with for around $100. $250 for that $50 parts B is not OK sitttin out in the rain for years the tranny is probably full of water and rust |
Posted By: Steve Zidlicky
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 9:36am
| there are more out there and that one is not anything special.I would like to sell you parts for that one because you will need LOTS OF THEM. Buy one that runs and repair small stuff and paint or do what tickles you and it will still be a project for you and much less spent in the process. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 10:46am
| I'd really like a B with the belly mower. Are they proprietary or are mowers an aftermarket add-on that can easily be adapted? |
Posted By: sandman2234
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 11:34am
|
I think there are at least 3 mower manufacturers. Woods, Artsway and ....at least one other. Woods are the most common, Artsway makes a good one also. The B's pictured are definitely projects, with a lot of work and money involved. David from jax ------------- A proud member of the Allis Express movement! Northeast Florida |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 11:50am
|
You MIGHT be able to pry $50 out of me for that B but no more !! Unless you hear them running ANY tractor is a BIG gamble and will cost hundreds or thousands to get 'up and running'. There's one for sale up here $1000 ! NOT running,needs tires,muffler,handcrank(says it's 1938)....who knows IF the hand brakes work, etc. It's the silly little things like... will the rad HOLD water ? how much oil is in the water in the tranny ?...6V or 12V, genny or alt ?....Probably 20 'must know' questions[ maybe someone will make a list], you should find out before handing over any cash. Up here scrap is 3 cents a pound aka $50 a ton more or less AND it's going down....so if the seller figures in fuel costs to haul to a yard you are doing HIM a favour giving him the $50-75 that's a fair price for a little tractor with a LOT of big unknowns... Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 11:55am
|
I would venture to say if they were givin to you it would cost way to much in parts alone to bring any of them back good enough to mow with. GaryL. How far are you from Henderson Texas? I'm ready to thin out my collection of Bs and Cs that run. Ken |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 12:04pm
You have a PM. |
Posted By: Ted in NE-OH
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 12:37pm
|
A "B" with a Woods belly mower L-59 (most common) is not a brush hog, it is intended to be a finish (lawn) mower. If you get into tall grass the belt will just slip. ------------- CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914 |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2015 at 12:47pm
|
That looks like a parts tractor, but for $200 it might have some parts for a better tractor that you find latter on down the road, I'd keep looking.
------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2015 at 7:19am
|
There are a lot better B n'C's out there than that one. I would think in your state, they'll be in excellent shape compared to around these parts. Western states always have nicer iron because of the weather conditions. Sounds like Ken can fix ya up with somethin' nice and running! Now that's a plus! LOL! ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2015 at 6:03pm
| 2000 lbs of B @$2.50/cwt = about $50 scrap value. Before scrap went up, B's used to go for about 3-400 bucks for a running one... |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2015 at 6:49pm
| Someone sent me a link to a project B very close to me. I have a friend who can dicker like no one, so I sent him the link. Since he's retired, he may very well be able to pick it up for a song; otherwise, there's always whatever kinds of treasures Ken has available. |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2015 at 9:13pm
|
Gary, I sure hope you get a B. Love to see another one brought back to live and get some TLC. That said, I would suggest you look a little further. Seems like there is so much missing from the one I see and having it SIT OUTSIDE for an extended period of time seems like poor odds with what may well be needed to bring it back to life Wish you the best though. Just do not repeat do not want you to get frustrated by a real difficult never ending job. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2015 at 7:27am
Thanks, but I'm good. One of my hobby interests is metal shaping, and I'm on a metal shaping forum where you wouldn't believe the kinds of scratch work some guys produce. Reproducing the gas tank for the Model B (in the ad) is something I was considering. No matter as I passed on the project. The seller said it was OK as he has another buyer coming to look at it. Once I do find something, I will definitely post here. |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2015 at 12:12pm
|
Gary I'm moving stuff in the shop around and taking pictures. I got my image transfer problems solved so I can email pictures or PM them. Everything AC here has to go except for my CA puller and everything I need to finish building a 38 handcranker exactly like the one dad had before I was 10 years old. 3 Bs and a C all with running engines. plus parts. Some assembly required. I'm just too old to finish all the tractor projects I started. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2015 at 7:25am
|
Thanks to all of those who responded to this thread either directly or via PM. Yesterday, Ken and I officially sealed the deal on a B that he has that will be perfect for my current situation. It was great talking to him, especially after learning we both grew up in northern Illinois. Pictures of the upcoming retrieval and post assembly to follow. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2015 at 7:36am
|
Great to hear! You da' man Ken!! ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: WC7610
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2015 at 9:07am
|
Buy a good running C and also this one for parts. Put the B rear end on your good running C and you will have a much handier mower tractor. ------------- Thanks Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2015 at 10:09am
|
Gary, Congrats on the purchase of the B. Looking forward to pictures too. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 11:16am
|
I received a message from the hauler a while ago. My B is loaded and on the way to its new home! I suspect it will be later tonight when he arrives. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/LoadedAllisB_zpsbbimxldn.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  |
Posted By: 45 turboa-
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 11:34am
|
Looks like a nice B that green thing up front is probably the only 2 cyl worth having I had a H jd once never again Junk ! ------------- turbocharged |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 2:15pm
That's a very nice looking B......I now have "B" envy!!!  ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 2:23pm
|
If you're just using the B for small jobs and don't want those extra rear wheel centers, hit me up!
|
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 3:10pm
|
Gary, Good looking B! Got some nice tires on the rear too! Your collection is growing. Regard, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 3:40pm
|
Gary, Nice looking B. If it's anything like the parts Kenny sends me, it's perfect! I've received primo parts from him over the past year or so. Good man to deal with. I've been wanting to get over Kenny's way for a while now. Who did you use to haul? Steve ------------- 1940 B "Lucy" 1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 6:06pm
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA 
Dale (aka orangeborn) is hauling the B for me. He came by, yesterday, to leave a little Farmall at my place while he picks up the B. I think the Farmall is part of some swap he's arranged with another hauler. It's a neat little tractor. |
Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 7:00pm
|
That hauler has been a very busy person this week,Dale drop off parts to me earlier this week. Farmall high crop parts. http://s128.photobucket.com/user/richhc/media/Farmall%20tractors/Farmall%20parts.JPG_zpsjvkiwmlg.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s128.photobucket.com/user/richhc/media/Farmall%20tractors/Farmall%20parts1.JPG_zpsbhr2wxlh.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Pick up a Farmall 140 that is making it way north. Forgot to take a picture before he left. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2016 at 12:12pm
|
Dale just left a bit ago. We had a great time chatting. His services are outstanding. Here's my new toy. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/Allis%20B%202-14-16_zps3bpmglm1.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/Allis%20B%202-14-16_1_zpsuntz2edv.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2016 at 6:14pm
|
I friend and I tore down the carb today after I had it soaking in a bucket of carb cleaner for the past week. A jet was clogged and there was a lot of crud in it. I bought a complete rebuild kit from DJs and wonder if anyone has any advice or insight. |
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2016 at 6:37pm
|
Clean and line the fuel tank, get a good screen and gasket for the fuel bowl, use a screened inlet at the carburetor. I noticed that the frontend looks a bit different to me. Is the diagonal support reinforced?
------------- 1940 B "Lucy" 1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 8:34am
|
I just picked up my freshly rebuilt 6V starter. Total cost was $85 by a local shop. It looks great. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/B_Rebuilt_Starter_zpscxgcpgo0.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 8:43am
|
Gary, Rebuilt carb, rebuilt starter, you should be about ready to do some chores with the new toy? That is a good looking tractor. You will like it. Very easy to drive. Not quite as easy to get on and off, but your young!:) Don't want to forget about that nice WD you have? Whats the status of that machine? Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 10:13am
|
$85 bucks?
------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 11:28am
Hey Chris. The WD is still waiting in the wings. My car has been sitting in my garage since December 24th for me to complete work that was thought to only take three days tops. That ended up being fits of starts and stops searching for parts and ordering more. I'm also in my final six weeks of my BA, so every day between now and May 5th is focused on that.
Yes. $85 of my hard-earned money to rebuild the starter. This business has an excellent reputation in town. |
Posted By: BigMo(TX)
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 12:40pm
| I'm not saying they didn't do a good job on the starter, but it sure seems cheap. I've had several rebuilt locally by a shop with a good reputation and paid a whole lot more than that every time! |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 2:24pm
| I that engine is fairly solid, and I imagine it is if Ken said so, you'll run that thing so long you'll give it to your grand kids. You will like how it sips gas. I doubt if it uses more than a regular rider. Enjoy. Leon R Cmo |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 2:55pm
|
I'll havta' quit my rebuilding services and seek these folks out. What am I killin' myself for? Like Mo said, not saying they didn't do a good job, but my cost for parts is a heck of a lot more than $85. bucks, not including my labor and whatever else I find in the unit that may be borderline, have failed or cooked. And not counting the new or rewound arm that I put in our units either. Then there's my time on the 881 machine to put them through their tests to make sure they surpass specs as well as my expectations. There's quite a bit of time involved from start to finish on these units.... Sheesh! Steve@B&B ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: orangereborn
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 3:32pm
|
Posted By: orangereborn
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 3:38pm
|
Posted By: orangereborn
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 3:55pm
|
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 4:32pm
|
Dale is talkin about a guy named Jessie that saw Garys B on the trailer as he was leaving here. Jess has a broke AC that needs parts.
Dale gave him my number and he called. He has a Japanese 5020 diesel that needs the steering sector gears to make it whole again. I found the parts from Sandy Lake . Not new. Used but good for a good bit of money. I saw Jess today and he saved up enough to get the gear set if Sandy Lake still has them.
Finding parts for a B is a whole lots easier and cheap compared to a 5020.
The set of used tires under the B were sold to a guy in Wisconsin. Dale got the job of haulin them home for the fella that bought them.
If yiou need haulin Dale is the MAN
I think It was putting on the wheel weights that broke my back. I had to have vertebroplasty surgery right after the B left .
|
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 4:50pm
|
GaryL, I am DELIGHTED to see that another running B that really looks good gets a good new home. Keep in touch as to how it goes. Thanks for keeping another of my favorites alive and well. Good Luck! Bill Long ps: So glad you got in touch with Ken. He takes good care of B's.
|
Posted By: orangereborn
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 5:03pm
|
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 12:44pm
|
Ordered a proper muffler for the B which included the brackets. I picked it up after getting it ceramic coated and was greeted with this, today: http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN0941_zpsjuahkcpo.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN0945_zpsvatl33xh.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN0942_zps2jajnd1r.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  So, either I need a different hood, or I'm going to have to hack the hood to make this work. Anyone have any suggestions? |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 1:08pm
| Can't really tell from the photo is it not lined up or does it not fit through the hood? I was wondering of a mulfer shop could bend you a short adaptor pipe. |
Posted By: BenGiBoy
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 1:08pm
|
You probably need a hood with a 'thru-hood' muffler hole. If I remember right the 'thru-hood' mufflers hole is supposed to be 4", and the hole for the 'above-hood' muffler is 2.5". Or just get a little 'fabricating' practice.... ------------- '39 Model B Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that! |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 5:21pm
I got to thinking after I posted this. As much as I hate to cut the hood I probably will for this muffler. Now, the other bad news is when I pulled the make-do exhaust pipe, I found there is water in the manifold. I'm not too surprised considering the strength of recent stormed that have rolled through. I have no idea if any of the exhaust valves are open, but I would expect that possibility. Should I pull the manifold, drain it, and inspect cylinders for water? I'm thinking that's the best course of action. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 5:25pm
| I would you don't want to hydro lock it. I would pull the plugs it will make a place to let the water out when it turns over. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 5:29pm
Ahh, great idea. I have the hand crank, which will make the process a bit easier to control. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 6:18pm
|
Gary, Surprised it got that much water in there with the rain cap on? If your going to cut the hood start small and make sure its in the right place to center the new pipe in the hood opening. Maybe mark the hood using the existing vertical pipe as the center to mark the offset from. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 6:32pm
Actually, I was thinking of cutting the existing pipe down where it's even with the hood. Then, I'll position the muffler on it so I can use a sharpie to mark a circle. That will allow enough space around the muffler as well as get it properly centered. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 22 May 2016 at 7:31am
|
Gary, That should do it! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 22 May 2016 at 5:22pm
|
Here we go. Cut down the old pipe to get a rough idea how to align the muffler. Set the muffler atop the hood and eyeballed everything. Then, I traced a circle. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/Muffler-1_zpsjiy3c56x.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  The air filter was interfering with my cutting, so I pulled it. Then, I dropped the muffler in place and checked for spots I should trim some more. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/Muffler-2_zpsioxdpc2t.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Now, it's all bolted into place and the rain cap is snugged. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/Muffler-3_zpsgpksmwfu.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  I pulled the spark plugs and hand cranked it for three full revolutions. A massive amount of water shot out of the back cylinder, then one of the others. I paused to check my work and realized the tractor was sitting cockeyed and noticed it had walked over the cement block I'm using for a wheel chock. OOPS! Popped it out of gear so it could roll back. Turned it two more times to ensure as much water was out as possible before putting the plugs back into place. I'm going to get some Marvel Mystery and dump down each cylinder before I spin it again a few more times. I've also reinstalled the rebuilt starter with the nicely powder coated brush cover. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/Starter_zpspq7qtse3.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  I blasted the carburetor at a friend's today with a mild abrasive. The carb cleaned up great and we blew the snot out of it with compressed air. I would have had the carb reassembled except I left the float at home.  I'll get there in due time. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 22 May 2016 at 5:34pm
|
The exaust looks good. Two little takeaway lessons first before you ever turn a tractor over double and triple check it is in neutral. Walking over the block might seem almost funny with the plugs out but with the plugs in and the carb on it could well be your wife posting about how you are in the hospital or worse. I alway check even if I was trying to start the tractor walked away and came back with tools. It is just a habit now that I grab the shifter before the key everytime. The life you save will be your own. Le enough preaching. Second lesson is plug all the holes going into the motor when you walk away that means take some tape or a rag or both and cover that carb opening right now. Mice and chickmunks will climb in there with acorns for lunch if you don't trust me on this one found out the hard way with the air line off the carb for a while. Good work on the mulfer. Just keep safe so we can all enjoy hearing about your progress and seeing the photo's. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 22 May 2016 at 5:58pm
I agree with you on all that. I was wondering why turning it over was more difficult that I imagined. Once I paused to asses the situation I noticed it was creeping over the block. This is also why I have it parked on level ground and blocked *and* parked in gear. Just in case someone comes by and tried to get cute and pop it out of gear. As for the rest, the carb and air cleaner aren't mounted on the tractor, but I've dealt with enough old Volkswagens that I have had my share of vehicles packed with acorns and filler materiel. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 22 May 2016 at 6:08pm
| I guess it is good to be safe but my tractors are never left in gear on level ground. Them things are really heavy and in my experience they don't roll well when I need to get that last little bit to drop a pin in. I grew up with the theory leave a car in gear but a tractor you slip it in neutral when you shut it off and wait a bit to see if it rolls at all if it doesn't it won't. There are about 3 places here they can trick you cause it is cement that isn't level but on dirt they just sink in enough to not roll. I bet there isn't a 1 of my 5 tractors in gear. Honestly the bigger risk is someone walking up and turning the key while one the ground standing in front of the rear tire. I get the not wanting it to roll away. Just be safe I have know people who where long time farmers who ran their foot over that way. Wasn't a pretty site even after the fact left me paranoid. |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 22 May 2016 at 7:08pm
|
Back on the first page someone said to buy a C and put the B rear end on it to make a handier mowing tractor. Why? ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: sandman2234
Date Posted: 22 May 2016 at 8:44pm
Narrow front turns quicker, narrow rears make it easier to mow right up next to items. David from jax ------------- A proud member of the Allis Express movement! Northeast Florida |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 22 May 2016 at 9:56pm
|
Gary, You must be done with school? Looks like you have been spending some quality time with the toys! Hole for muffler came out very good. I had a B just about run over me after a quarter turn of the crank! I was lucky! It was bucking up a tree when i finally got the shifter out of gear. Scared the crap out of me! Regards, Chris Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: corbinstein
Date Posted: 23 May 2016 at 7:28am
|
while you're at it, check to see if you can get the clutch to pop all the way over and upside down.. MAKE SURE IT'S NOT RUNNING. then push on the clutch till it goes all the way over, past the stop. If it does, FIX IT! I had one do that while I was pulling another B off the trailer. Now I'm standing a wheelie, no way to shut it off (make sure the shutoff works too), and the clutch has just flipped over. I snatch the gearshift back, and it went into reverse..... Now it's trying to climb over the IB that's on the trailer.....I finally hit it as hard as I could with my fist and it went out of gear... I climb off and kill it. Nursing my hand and cussing this disaster........
|
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 23 May 2016 at 7:50am
Yes Chris, I am now finished with school. I've spent the first two weeks out of school doing absolutely nothing. I wanted to take some time to acclimate myself to the fact that I am not rushed for a few weeks before returning to classes (I made sure to take a class each summer term). I went back to re-read my post, and it seems a few of you guys getting bent out of shape over my having hand cranked the engine missed a key detail:
But I appreciate the warnings of exercising caution.
I don't quite understand what you're saying. Do what with the clutch while the tractor is not running? Dale was able load it onto his trailer when he picked it up and then back it off his trailer, with no issues.
|
Posted By: corbinstein
Date Posted: 23 May 2016 at 9:38am
| take a careful look at the clutch pedal. Press it forward. Then MASH it forward further. Will it go past the stop? Mine did. If it goes past the stop, it can then pop over and underneath. Kapische? What I found that caused this was the rod that goes thru the torque tube sideways that the bottom of the pedal attaches to and pivots was worn and allowing it to bypass the stop. Nearly bit me. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 23 May 2016 at 9:44am
Ahhhh, good to know. I will definitely check that out.
|
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 23 May 2016 at 8:36pm
|
Gary, Some of us older folks get a lot more cautious with age. You got the points on safety. All that being said these tractors start real quick and easy. You should love it! Enjoy your time off! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 28 May 2016 at 8:32am
|
Many thanks to Kyle for the Woods mower. I want to clean it up, get it attached, and put it to work once I get the B running. I had to unload it myself. An old water heater and the fulcrum principle worked great. He had previously shipped the pulley and cylinder needed for making the mower operational. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Implements/DSCN0953_zpspklpjv3s.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Implements/DSCN0951_zps117rxgvy.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Implements/DSCN0950_zps8maepcbx.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Can anyone deduce which model mower this is? It definitely needs new blades. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Implements/DSCN0954_zpssi6d5krw.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 May 2016 at 9:48pm
|
Gary, Looks like a great project for the "B"! Lots of rust there. I would recommend getting it sandblasted and then go from there. If you have all the parts that is a big plus. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 28 May 2016 at 10:49pm
|
Woods 503. Great mower. Got one under our "C". Under the tin there is an idler pulley arm on a spring. Drill, tap, and put a grease fitting in it. ------------- 2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 29 May 2016 at 9:44am
That's probably a good idea. I was giving it a once over yesterday and noticed a few of the grease fittings were rusted. IIRC, Kyle stated the tractor had been sitting for a long time, so a complete teardown of the mower is probably a good idea. I'd rather do it once and cry once but will be satisfied knowing it was done right the first time.
Thanks for that information and the advice regarding the grease fitting  |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 29 May 2016 at 1:45pm
|
It's a Woods L503 , a left handed rotation mower a Woods 503 is right hand. Blades are left handed and spindle has left handed thread to hold the blade on. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 29 May 2016 at 2:01pm
I was looking up information on Woods mowers and noticed a reference to left handed threads. There is a dealer in my area; however, I'm looking for some web sources where I can find parts. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2016 at 6:14pm
|
I have the B moved into my garage so I can make some tweaks and see if I can get it running this weekend. The steering wheel has approximately 6"-8" of play. I don't believe adjusting it will be of use, so I would like to pull it to rebuild it. Is there a diagram or How-To posted anywhere?
|
Posted By: Hubnut
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2016 at 6:27pm
|
Gary, You'd be surprised how much play you can remove with the adjuster screw at the back of the box. Give it a go. Steve ------------- 1940 B "Lucy" 1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia" 1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick" 1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie" 1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie" 1972 314H |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2016 at 8:32pm
| Gary the steering box is fairly simple and a few of us have been through them a time or two. Help is right here. I did have a book when I did mine. A forum member sent me a PDF. Parts can be found and the pin can be made. I lucked in to NOS parts when I redid my last one. That will make a very good mowing machine. If I remember correctly there are two different gear boxes. What year is your B? I had a 1940 with the same adjustable wide front. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 10:26pm
Steve, That much play in the box tells me there are deeper, underlying issues. May as well bite the bullet, pull the box and tear it down.
This B is a throw together (has a C rear end). I'll pull the cover and get some pictures of the box posted by Saturday. Some Google searches have directed me to threads and diagrams from this forum; however, some pictures posted in the threads are now dead links.
|
Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 9:00am
|
It looks like from the Woods mower pictures that the rear mount bracket for the mower is for a B, if so it will not fit if you have C final drives.
------------- Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:53am
|
The pictures he posted, show a B rear with the single nut holding the wheel hub on, with C wheel centers bolted on as weights. I would guess somebody put a C tranny in it if it has a C tractor number. Unless somebody changed the axles out somehow, I would think it has B final drives. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 11:06am
|
It sure would help if I had some reference for how to remove the steering box. So far, I have removed: the steering wheel; battery box & associated wires; steering arm; and have loosened the outer cover. I have the tube partially slid upward but cannot see how the shaft disconnects from the box, unless the three bolts holding the small cover are the secret sauce.
|
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 12:51pm
|
OK, I figured out how to dismantle this. I had no idea the steering shaft didn't break at the worm gear. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN1086_zpsgd7hovcn.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN1089_zpssucjmcue.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN1088_zpsb7upbleg.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN1091_zpskvk5zic8.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN1096_zps4b8jiri6.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  The upper bearing only had 9 balls, which I believe it is one short. The end of the housing looks like it's been beat. The pin is mashed on the arm, so I'm wondering if I should cobble together a new box or get a new/rebuilt unit. It shouldn't be that difficult to rebuilt considering I have a neighbor who is a machinist and can turn a pin.
|
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 2:20pm
|
Gary, Thanks for the pictures! I have never had one apart! You are right into it now! Good luck on the steering box rebuild! Looks like a lot of old grease in there. Better than no grease! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 2:27pm
|
What I do is drill out the pin, and replace it with one from Tracy martin, or buy one from John Deere for a John Deere M, they are replaceable in that tractor and are the exact same profile as the wore out one in the B Allis. Also Steiner has one from China for about $100 for the whole lever shaft. Your neighbor could make one but he wouldn't know the profile etc without a good one to look at, and it needs to be hard material. The seal # is CR 9838 ------------- Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152 |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 4:38pm
OK. Thanks for that . Does anyone have some rebuilt pictures or an exploded diagram?
|
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 6:33pm
| Gary I'll look for pics from when I rebuilt mine. It was a few years back and my memory isn't keeping up. I should have pics of the whole process if I can find them. I'll also look in the shop and see what parts I may have hanging on the wall. I have a good C box bu I don't think I have a complete box for a B. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 8:38pm
Thad, I would really appreciate that. How do I go about drilling the pin and installing a new one? Is it press fit or welded?
|
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 8:58pm
| Gary, I didn't replace the pin on mine. I lucked in to a NOS shaft from a friend, Tracy Martin on the forum makes new pins and could probably tell you how it's done. I've been looking for pics and haven't found them yet. I wish I could remember what I did for the bearing at the bottom. I'll keep looking for the pics. Keep this bumped or start a thread on the steering box and others will also be able to help with parts and advice. |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 9:04pm
| One more thing. I wish you could find another donor box for parts. It would have the needed ball and possibly other needed parts. I will look in the shop in the morning. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 7:32am
Thanks again, Thad. BTW: Is the ended being boogered up going to be an issue? It looks like a pressed-in retainer that can't be removed now due to the housing being distorted. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 7:35am
| If you need to get that out I think a good machinist could clean it up and pull it out they might need to clean the bore and sleeve it depending on how bad it is but it looks totally salvageable to me. |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 10:37am
|
I inspected the steering shaft today to see what it would take to remove the pin and noticed it has been ground on the backside. There aren't any signs of a hole, so I'm wondering if this is the correct shaft or if this box is even worth salvaging. http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN1107_zpsbdt7psxl.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s160.photobucket.com/user/VWandDodge/media/Tractor/Model%20B/DSCN1106_zps0hv8aojr.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 10:48am
Stick a big screw driver or a pry bar in under that seal and pry it out. Then file any burrs out of the bore and make a slight chamfer on it. A die grinder with a light hand would be real handy for this. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 7:03pm
| Gary I looked through all the B parts I could find and didn't see any steering box parts. I found a good complete box for a C but It won't fit your B. I'm still looking for pics. |
Posted By: BenGiBoy
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 8:44am
|
I have an extra steering box, I don't know if it is good or not, it might not be, but it might still have the bearings or whatever else you might need. PM me if you are interested.... ------------- '39 Model B Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that! |
Posted By: GaryL
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2016 at 4:16pm
| Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the Allis B steering box? |
Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 12:03pm
|
Gary, here is one I rebuilt some time ago. Hope it helps. Also it is not recommended to use grease (I see the grease fitting). Remove the grease fitting and install a 1/4" pipe plug, use heavy gear oil.   ------------- Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152 |
Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 12:26pm
Gary, This diagram is for B&C disregard the parts on the lower left they are for a C. ------------- Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152 |
Posted By: Wdtractorman
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 5:26pm
|