Allis Chalmers wd45 hand clutch

I recall that happening to me about 25 years ago. The pressure plate in the hand clutch housing broke in half and had to be replaced. Hope that didn't happen to yours. My 2 cents on the topic.

Remove the battery box and then the cover underneath of the battery box and have a look to see what is or isn't working.

If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

You could do a better job of describing the problem so maybe you can get help. When was the last time you were able to drive the tractor?? What have you done to the tractor since then?? Why do you think the hand clutch is the problem ?? Does the hand clutch lever feel normal and "snap" in and out of engagement ??????

Hand clutch lever FORWARD should release the hand clutch. The hand clutch should "snap" when you throw the lever fully forward. Sometimes you need to hit the brakes to get the hand clutch to release and stop forward motion. I hope you have the transmission and hand clutch area full of oil ???

Edited by DrAllis - 28 Apr 2024 at 4:04pm

I believe that the tractor will drive perfectly normal even with the hand clutch in the forwards position right now

DOES IT SNAP WHEN YOU THROW THE LEVER AHEAD ?? DID YOU STEP ON THE BRAKES TO TRY AND STOP IT ??

Then, there isn't a problem.

The hand clutch is a 2 or 3 disc clutch that operates in transmission oil. Because it is designed to and runs in oil, it is a very long life clutch. It can and does "creep" sometimes because it runs in oil. It sometimes requires a load to get it to release. These are NORMAL traits and is how they are. The hand clutch is designed to be used on hay balers to stop forward motion and keep the PTO turning. It is made to be used hundreds of times a day if need be.

Edited by DrAllis - 28 Apr 2024 at 5:07pm

Hand clutch lever fully FORWARD to STOP (disengage). Pull hand clutch lever fully rearward to make the tractor move (engage). The hand clutch is designed to be operated by itself and has nothing to do with the foot clutch. Oil level check plugs are square heads down below the battery box and the clutch pedal lock device. Oil level should be FULL at both plugs.

hunter321 wrote:

Ok
How do I engage the hand clutch

Do I push in the foot clutch and the brakes and then push the hand clutch to engage it

The purpose of the hand clutch is to release power to the rear wheels, allowing the tractor to stop moving while still allowing the PTO to continue running.

I spent many hours running a WD which works just like your WD45, and I learned to really appreciate that hand clutch. Just push it forward and the tractor stops (unless you are on a hill, then you need the brakes to keep from rolling away).

Pull back on the hand clutch and away you go! Much smoother than the foot clutch.

I always use the foot clutch to engage the PTO.

Why don't you take it for a drive? Engine running. Place the hand clutch lever fully forward. Push in the foot clutch and shift into 3rd gear. Hold the brakes and let out fully on the foot clutch. Release the brakes. Gently and slowly pull rearward on the hand clutch lever. Push forward to make it release and roll to a stop. Smooooth as silk if you do it right.

It did help me get into 4th gear

I had one of my 45's that I had to push HARD on the brakes and push/pull on the hand clutch to allow it to work. After sitting so long, they tend to stay 'stuck' together.

DO NOT ruing your brakes doing this, as that is another story!!

But keep trying it and push/pull the hand clutch while the brakes are jammed.

Worst scenario is IF the clutch is 'welded' together, you can try GENTLY to get the plates apart after you have taken the batt. box and the cover off. Use a putty knife to try and get it between the clutch faces.

Good luck!

"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17

That would have been helpful to know. A 3 inch diameter piece of wire ????????

this is what I found

Edited by hunter321 - 01 May 2024 at 9:17am

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