Need WD45 6v wiring diagram

The "F" wire on the generator is the GROUND side of the system. It goes to the LIGHT SWITCH and  thru a RESISTOR for normal 3 amp charging.. When you have the lights ON and using more power, the SWITCH shorts the "F" wire around the resistor, directly to GROUND and you get a full 8 amp charge..

--You can test battery voltage at the input to the CUT OUT.

--You can test OUTPUT of the generator when running by putting a volt meter from the "A" terminal to a GROUND on the tractor frame..  

--You can jumper the "F" wire to GROUND to bypass the light switch and check for FULL CHARGE..

--If you measure 7 v out of the generator and only 6 v on the OUPUT of the cutout to the amp meter... then the CUTOUT is not closing / failed.

Common modes of failure is the CUTOUT is broken and does not Switch open- closed... and the LIGHT switch is rusty or the resistor has failed and you dont have a GROUND connection....assuming you have voltage output at the generator.

most ( all ?) generators of that period were 'slow' chargers, tractors ran 8-10-12 hours every day to recharge the battery so if you only run 1-4 hrs after starting, the battery doesn't get a full charge. Eventually,it doesn't have enough guts to turn over the starter.

Since I'm not a farmer, only use tractors for short time, i tossed alternators into them ( 4, D-14s) since alternators recharge batteries FAST.

When keeping 6 volt system, be sure to use BIG battery cables( thick as your thumbs ) ! and CLEAN as ANY itty bit of cable corrosion will stop electrons from flowing.

Also check that the 'box' where light switch is in has a GOOD GROUND. Run a separate wire from the switch case to the battery ground, or at least a KNOWN 'good ground'.

6 volt systems need a lot of 'quality care' compared to the 12 volt ones.

To insure a good ground at the 3 position switch, run an auxilary wire from the switch mounting screw to the Battery pos. ground. This insures the switch is grounded. The 3 position switch operates this way:

IN- low charge through the resistor (2-3 amps) 

Second pos.- Headlights ON resistor by-passed  (full field ground to the Gennie) 4-6 amps depending on third brush setting inside the Gennie)

Third pos- Headlights OFF  (full field ground to the Gennie- high charge to the Battery.

Don't let the Generator fool you. If the 3 position switch is forgotten about and left in the high charge mode, depending on where the third brush is located in the Generator will determine maximum amps put into the Battery. If forgotten about you can and will boil the Battery! Most of those early 6V Gennies can put a max of 8-10 amps at full field mode again depending on where the third brush is set...... HTH

Steve@B&B

AC WD45 wrote: Yes that ws with the 2 wire generator. This tractor is currently set up with a 1 wire alternator. In your picture, the colors apear reversed. How is a 1 wire alternator supposed to be wired in?

If you want to use the ammeter (assuming it is functional) then it goes straight to the ammeter. The stock ammeter probably doesn't have adequate range though, and you would be better advised to use a voltmeter instead

Otherwise, straight to the battery positive post (assuming it is negative ground, which is most likely).

Which battery terminal is PRESENTLY GROUNDED ?   Are you going to leave it this way with the NEW GENERATOR ?

The light switch was original to charge ONE 6v battery.. You have TWO.. Are you going to use a 12v generator, or just charge ONE battery ?   A 12v system does not use the LIGHT SWITCH, it uses a new VOLTAGE REGULATOR.

Hold on here a second!!!  I thought you were working with the 6V PG system. You have an Alternator sitting up front???  No wonder you can't make things work. You have Peaches and Apples here. First off, get rid of the Ammeter so you don't burn your Tractor up. Replace it with a Voltmeter for safety. As the guys said, you're working with 12V Negative Ground now, not Pos Grd. If you're going to run a one wire Alternator, you need to run the output wire (heavy wire from the rear of the Alt) to either a junction block or to the Starter motor.  In order to start the charging process with a one wire Alternator, you need to rev the engine to 1200-1400 rpm in order to excite the VR to start the charging process. This is why I tell people to move to a 3 wire system. The 3 wire system immediately starts the charging process once the engine is started. Charging should start around 450-500 rpm. Much easier on the engine. Anyway, getting back to the one wire delma, from your Voltmeter + side run a 14 ga. wire to the Starter motor where the Alternator output is. Run a ground wire from the - side of the Voltmeter to either Battery ground or a good CLEAN chassis ground. If you have a couple 6V Batteries in there, toss them out and put a 12V Battery in. Why complicate something that you don't need to complicate.  The 3 position light switch shouldn't even be in the equation at all. If you want the Headlights to work, put a universal fused 12V Headlight switch in place of the 3 pos switch. Those 3 position switches do not like the fast moving 12V current running through them. That's fire n' smoke ready to happen.  With the Tractor wired the way I explained, once the engine rpm is brought up around 1200 or so, the Voltmeter should start to show a charge between 13.9-14.5 volts. 14.2 being ideal.  Now, the proper way to do that is run a 3 wire system like I mentioned above briefly through a key switch to control power on board the Tractor. DO NOT USE A TOGGLE SWITCH to control current from the Alternator. Most general toggle switches are only rated at 10-15 amps tops. You're asking for trouble doing that....

Steve@B&B