My newest favorite mistake. HD6G

200Tom1 wrote: Way to go guy.   I sometimes wish I hadn't traded my last 1 off, but since my left arm went bad, I couldn't work on it. I hope you have fun running the old gal.

  The main clutch was the worst part, one or two good arms. My big belly didn't help at all.....

Nice Work ~ Orangeman

Well, a month or so of being submerged in diesel fuel, and a little hammering, and the steering clutch finally unseized from the drum so I could remove it. The entire center of the clutch was stuffed with shredded carpet and mouse .

200Tom1 wrote: You get her all sewed up, she will be fun to run. I had several and enjoyed them. I even got the 1 grandson operating the last one.

Thanks. I haven't yet ran one with all the manual levers....looks like a job for a octopus. Everything is ready as soon as I can get that left steering clutch loose. It spun once while the tracks were really frozen, but it won't budge now. At least if it smokes, I will be able to remove it. 

Well, I have the new Tyrone HD7-G pump, my clutch complete and installed. Started it up, and tested the hydraulics, went from 750 PSI on old Hydreco to 1500 PSI. It made this pressure just above low idle. Had a lot going on, and tried to roll back the bucket to push against the tracks, and my main hydraulic hose blew, sending a fountain of clean, expensive fluid all over me and everything within 15 feet. Old pump was definitely shot! Hose probably would have blown eventually in a less-convenient location, but still should have backed off the relief valve completely before testing a 'new' pump. Anyway, I set the trans in reverse, and locked back the free right steering clutch, and sort of 'leaned' the clutch against the stuck left clutch. To my surprise, the tractor started moving backwards, quite easily. I sort of bumped the clutch against that steering clutch a few times, and it freed up, a little shuddering was felt. Engaged both clutches, and the machine will roll itself backwards quite nicely, with engine barely above low idle. Still amazed at how much torque these engines make. Last main hyd hose I had made was for my 7G and cost 220$, 10 years ago. Major PITA to remove, as I recall. 

Tracks will free up considerably once you get to rolling on them with a few gradual turns included. Ensure you keep good tension on them when first starting out as a "stiff" track throws easily. Not too bad on a tractor of your size but a PIA all the same.  

Well, I have ordered my clutch parts and sent off the disc to be relined. I then switched to the steering brakes, the left one was stuck like our economy. A little rosebud work and they freed up. I can now rotate the input shaft to the trans and move the machine a little. Tracks are slowly getting freed up by penetrant, pry bars and BFH's. I'm going to try to jack up the machine one side at a time and see how the tracks droop. The old 344 starts right up now and doesn't smoke anymore. Can't wait to be pushing dirt. 

Got the clutch out, only had to cut off one corroded cover bolt. Pressure plate is cracked. Those three retainers on the outer perimeter are bolted on, and then apparently tack welded to the pressure plate. Clutch disc looked surprisingly good, and is >.375'' at the pads. Anyone have the thickness spec on the clutch disc?  There was still plenty of adjustment left on the clutch, I think Hector was right that they just ran it till it burned up, and the heat cracked the pressure plate (perhaps trying to unfreeze the tracks?)......water intrusion through the open inspection port finished the damage. Good news, I peeked into the tranny and it all looks factory shiny and new inside. Any RX on oil type for the trans? Once again, I appreciate all the help with the specifics in this project. 

It has been about 15 years since I was in that area!

200Tom1 wrote: I got all filters thru our local NAPA. Pull the motor to work on/replace the main clutch. Hopefully you have an oil clutch. The adjustment is under the floor board.   Usually easy to adjust. Good luck with the old gal. They are a whole lot of fun to operate. Wish I still had the last one I owned. It went to central Nebraska.

    Tom, it's a dry clutch. Others have said that it can be changed without removing the engine? It would be a chore pulling the engine where the machine is sitting. About those big 3/4' drive bolts, are you supposed to loosen those before the nose can be tilted forward? Thanks. 

I got all filters thru our local NAPA. Pull the motor to work on/replace the main clutch. Hopefully you have an oil clutch. The adjustment is under the floor board.   Usually easy to adjust. Good luck with the old gal. They are a whole lot of fun to operate. Wish I still had the last one I owned. It went to central Nebraska.

doctorcorey wrote: HD6 Merv wrote: gauge will only really register with engine running, should be around 30 psi, anything over 20 is good. The 2nd fuel filter can be a bugger to bleed.  To bleed those psb pumps, remove the 3/4 nut in the centre of the fuel pump head, where the injector pipes come out. And crank until fuel comes out tthere   Thanks, I'll try that. Now, I'm trying to tilt the radiator guard/nose piece forward so I can access the injector pump (to get the transfer pump out, the guard is partially blocking it). I removed the two rear bolts. Am I supposed to turn or loosen those two big flathead pivots with the 3/4 square drive, or is it supposed to pivot on those? Never had to move this piece on my 7G.

  Also, it looks like someone has chiseled on those in the past, to try to turn them, I guess. 

gauge will only really register with engine running, should be around 30 psi, anything over 20 is good.

So, today I fabricated a new pin for the starter engagement lever, and reinstalled the starter. I then changed the fuel filters. About that time, it started to get cold and rainy. I got fuel to the primary filter, and figured I'd try to see if the starter would now work. Hit the plunger, and it spun over like a sewing machine. I cranked a few times for a total of probably 20 seconds. It sounds very even, like no dead holes. It started filling the oil filter housing, and sending fuel to the secondary filter. There was nothing in the cylinders that was combustion-worthy....I had went through the intake ports and added a mixture of ATF and Berrymans B12 before manually turning the engine over about 10 revs.  I had a small tin bucket over the exhaust, and I did get it to 'rattle' that bucket a few times. It was getting dark, and the rain picked up, and so did my beer intake. I'll get back to it tomorrow, and I think it's going to run. Thanks all of you for your help. 

Dr Corey.  Lip seal for fuel transfer pump is  skf 4231. Available any good bearing supplier. This is most common cause of diesel getting into engine oil