HD9B ALLIS CHALMERS DOZER 1953/1954

What other AC crawlers used this driveshaft setup?

Semper Fi USMC 1958 HD6G, 1959 MF 203 loader, 1960 Case 420B Backhoe, MF 65 Tractor/Loader Diesel

I recheck tomorrow for a 6 spleene yoke

Danny....were getting close....I'm still curious about the end of the yoke that goes into the pump? Can you get that off...lets see how that looks...splines...straight shaft with keyway? If we can see that then everyone knows what you need. Hector (Gemdozer) said he might have some parts...and if not....I know Codger and I would concur with Cal that all of that could be fabricated up pretty easy.

anybody have this whole driveshaft with the fittings on both ends they are looking to get rid of. Need the shaft, 2 ujoints, and both ends! see pics

by george we got it!!!!! thank you thank you thank you for the tips. Codger it broke loose just like you said it would

I think you do have the setup Mel shows but it is behind the plate the broken part is attached to. From the side smack the broken u joint flange on both sides and that front plate should start to break free. Rust is holding it fast in place.

Danny...I think Hector (GEMDOZER) was thinking he might have some parts that would help you...was interested in how many splines on the pump? Can you get the yoke of the end of the pump and take pictures of the pump or those parts maybe?

Here are pictures of an HD9 crankshaft pulley...it should be the same as yours....all the HD9s should have come to there dealers with no blades...so all of these were the same. 1 picture is straight on....one a little from the side hoping to show some depth...as per Cal...it covers the bolt that holds the pulley on.....and of course someone might have modified something in the last 60 years....that would of course void the warranty...LOL

Yes...I was going to mention to Cal...we started buying those books probably 20 years ago on ebay....they were cheap to almost free....we bought everything we could get our hands on if we thought we didn't have it.....brochures..flyers...service bulletins...parts ...service...Garwood..Caro...Baker. People were cleaning there shelves and we filled ours up. It's all gone now..seems like...occasionally some will show up...and of course there's lots of the common stuff that's helpful...but sellers appear to be emotionally attached to it...probably not having a clue what it's for. Don't know if I'll ever get it all sorted...but it's fun to look through it if I think It will help someone.

Hector...not sure about the pump splines...looking at the book of the picture I posted...it appears the pump shaft is plain and keyed to match a splined insert (2) to the drive shaft yoke. Looks like the splined insert might be 10 splines.....but we don't know if that's what he has...can't tell by the pictures he has posted

How manay spleene on pump shaft

Ok.....Man you guys are making me work hard here!!!...Dug through our archives and library and did find this Garwood book. They did make a hydraulic blade set up for all the dozers at the time. Cal's right that the cable blades and units seem to be more popular then. Also as he says...the HYDRECO pump was the main player then.....the pump in your picture I'm sure is a HYDRECO. I'm also sure the whole hardnose assembly is Garwood with maybe some modifications. The parts book of course does not mention HYDRECO by name. If I get them posted right the last picture....albeit disappointing...does not show getting the yoke of the pulley. I'll look at a HD 9 tractor tomorrow that might give us some help. Don't break anything ....cause yes..you should be able to build one.

Codger wrote:

That coupler should be splined to the crankshaft snout. Take two sections of hardwood cut at a taper and drive between the crankshaft pulley, (sheave) and back of the coupler. drive these wedges till they are tight. Use either a 2lb hammer, or better yet an air hammer with mushroom bit and impact directly in the center of the coupler from the front of the tractor. Pound your wedges in tightly again and repeat as needed.

It will let go with a "pop" but the force must be kept heavy on the wedges. You could use heat but that would chance damaging the engine front oil seal.

My experience of someone hammering on a crank shafted ended very badly. Was a Ford 460 in a New Holland bale wagon if a gas engine may have a weaker crank. But the pully needed to come of crank to replace hydraulic drive belts. It had places to use pusher bolts but threads where stripped owner elected to use chisels as a wedge as suggested here. It came off and new belts installed. A mile down the road the crank broke. And that is a literal mile ran 10 minutes at most.

As a interesting fact the bale wagon owner also had 4 or 5 HD 9 crawlers for tillage.

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