alternator or generator?

Hah, let me answer a question with a question: There's a reason why you would consider that generator over the nice shiny alternator - why is that?(hint, there is no wrong answer, and your tractor should be what you want)

I'm with the Generator. With good wiring and correct battery cables there is nothing wrong with the original 6V system. PLus they look much better with the original equipment.

The question is are you restoring to drive in a parade where correct police might see, or are you wanting to use it with minimal maintenance? I have 2 AC's with alternators because I had everything on hand but the proper coil and I don't have to worry about charging or jumping a 6 volt battery when everything else I own is 12 volts. The original 6 volt will do the job if everything is kept up to snuff.

Brian's right on the one wire alternator.  My 37 WC will run the battery down if it wasn't for the switch I have to cut the alternator off.  I do have to rev the engine to get it to begin charging.

I am with Burgie.

Here's a pic o one:

The street rod shops sell them like crazy, they get upwards of 200 bucks for them.
You can get them with dual groove pulleys, different offsets on flange and adjusting ears.

Mitsubishi also makes one, but it doesn't have nearly the reputation for durability that the Denso has.

The Denso actually has the regulator and diodes mounted externally, so if you do blow them out, its only a couple of Phillips screws to remove.

The first one I did was many years ago - we had a 1989 Geo with a Denso that we scrapped out. Needed an alternator, the Denso was there on the shelf - so pulled the flat grooved pulley & machined a single groove to fit.

THAT one was 40 amps, they have models twice that output now.

Here's what the Geo, Toyota and many others have on the back for wiring plug:




BAT - the heavy charging wire and it is separate from the plug
IG - goes to the switched 12v on the Ignition switch
S - "Sense" measures the output - can be put right on the BAT lug
L - Indicator lamp
"IG" and "S" correspond to the same terminals on the GM/Delco 3-wire.

Using the "L" terminal is your choice - not required for proper use.

Then there is the two wire backs


A little simpler:
IG - goes to the switched 12v on the Ignition switch
L - Indicator lamp

On these units, the "Sense" wiring is internal - much like the single-wire GM/Delco.

I know for a fact that the auto parts stores carry replacement pigtails harnesses for the 3-lug style - spade connectors work, but the plugs make for a sealed, corrosion resistant hook-up.

The big deal on the link I provided in the first post is that one has the wider, "B" pulley, and is an "off-the-shelf" item already being used on ag & industrial equipment - means you can pick it up anywhere.

The big deal on that GEO one I first used - it turns out those 40 amp units start charging at less than 1000 alternator rpm - so 400 or so crankshaft rpm (depending on pulley sizes of course).

Oh, and did I mention that they are SMALL?!!!

JUST MAKE SURE THE UNIT YOU GET HAS THE INTERNAL REGULATOR



Edited by CJohnS MI - 29 Jul 2010 at 7:37am

If a 10si has bad diodes it will drain a battery, seems they leak juce back and discharge battery. They will charge but when setting for while you will find bat is low.