WC starter

check all connections first, 6v starter is fine for 12v, just don't crank it forever. A WD/WD45 will have switch on opposite side and you will have to swap parts to put on WC.

thats what Im going to try first....I wasnt trying to say I wanted to put the starter from the WD on the WC....I need a whole other starter if cleaning doesnt get the job done ya know? hopefully cleaning some more wires up will help....the battery terminals are good...i cleaned those up but needed to do a better job at the starter end. I'll see what happens maybe tonight if I have time.

Couple other things to check, Benny-

Electrolyte level in the battery-  if it's low, you'll show voltage, but it won't have the ability to provide expected current... with the plates only half covered, you'll have the effect of LESS than half a battery...

Corrosion between the terminals and clamps... unless you have shiny lead on both faces, you'll have resistance.

Corrosion WITHIN the cables... grab each cable, and bend it slightly every inch or so of it's length.  If it feels 'crunchy', that means there's corrosion in there- water has been drawn in (capillary action), and corroded your copper into green fuzz.

Grounding point:  While they work, steel and iron aren't nearly as good a conductor as copper... so having a good solid, clean grounding point CLOSE to the starter is best... the farther away the ground-point is, the more resistance (and more opportunity for poor contact) exists.  at 6v, every little bit counts.

My WD starter (recently posted here) was freshly rebuilt, but had two problems-  first being an improperly fitted brush (jammed in holder) and (as a result) an overheated, melted solder joint.  This also caused the switch to burn up a bit, so correcting the brush, solder joint, and new switch cost me $50 at the local auto-electric shop.


Edited by DaveKamp - 08 Jun 2010 at 1:07pm