WC starter
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13517
Printed Date: 01 Feb 2025 at 8:57pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WC starter
Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Subject: WC starter
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2010 at 12:20pm
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I need to do some more poking around but Im 99% sure my starter is going....barely turns this thing over....last starter I had done was for my WD and I had it upgraded to 12 volt guts and it was 206 bucks till I got it back....I need a 6V for my WC and really dont want to drop that much money on a starter....are they hard to rebuild? Anyone have a good one for sale?
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Replies:
Posted By: bigfish_Oh
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2010 at 12:33pm
check all connections first, 6v starter is fine for 12v, just don't crank it forever. A WD/WD45 will have switch on opposite side and you will have to swap parts to put on WC.
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1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p.
1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe
1951 WD, factory p.s.
1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale
2014 HD Tri Glide
2009 GMC CC SLT Dually
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Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2010 at 12:47pm
I agree with the last post. Take all connections apart and clean. Take apart the battery cable clamps if they come apart and clean them along with the cable wires. Clean connections on the starter.
Basically clean and tighten every electrical connection point all the way to the starter.
I had two D-17's that would not turn over on good batteries and it was because of loose and dirty connections.
After everything was good and clean they turned over great.
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Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2010 at 1:01pm
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thats what Im going to try first....I wasnt trying to say I wanted to put the starter from the WD on the WC....I need a whole other starter if cleaning doesnt get the job done ya know? hopefully cleaning some more wires up will help....the battery terminals are good...i cleaned those up but needed to do a better job at the starter end. I'll see what happens maybe tonight if I have time.
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Posted By: bigfish_Oh
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2010 at 11:24pm
I was trying to save you from grabbing a " good deal " on a starter, only to be surprised when you got home and it did not bolt on with out mods., been there , done that !!
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1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p.
1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe
1951 WD, factory p.s.
1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale
2014 HD Tri Glide
2009 GMC CC SLT Dually
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2010 at 1:04pm
Couple other things to check, Benny-
Electrolyte level in the battery- if it's low, you'll show voltage, but it won't have the ability to provide expected current... with the plates only half covered, you'll have the effect of LESS than half a battery...
Corrosion between the terminals and clamps... unless you have shiny lead on both faces, you'll have resistance.
Corrosion WITHIN the cables... grab each cable, and bend it slightly every inch or so of it's length. If it feels 'crunchy', that means there's corrosion in there- water has been drawn in (capillary action), and corroded your copper into green fuzz.
Grounding point: While they work, steel and iron aren't nearly as good a conductor as copper... so having a good solid, clean grounding point CLOSE to the starter is best... the farther away the ground-point is, the more resistance (and more opportunity for poor contact) exists. at 6v, every little bit counts.
My WD starter (recently posted here) was freshly rebuilt, but had two problems- first being an improperly fitted brush (jammed in holder) and (as a result) an overheated, melted solder joint. This also caused the switch to burn up a bit, so correcting the brush, solder joint, and new switch cost me $50 at the local auto-electric shop.
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Posted By: Ray
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2010 at 2:17pm
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i HAVE A wc STARTER THAT TESTS GOOD ON THE BENCH $90.00. 785-353-2392
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