D17 Series 3 Restoration Project & Engine Rebuild

How do I pull the engine block out of my Series 3 D17 to carry it down to the machine shop? It is the 226 Gas engine. I have it stripped down and hooked to the hoist, but don't want to go any farther W/O some advice. Do I have to take the whole front part of the tractor apart to get that block out of there? Any help out there?

Yes it is a wide front end. Where is the torque tube? Is that the transmission bell housing?

Just split my D17 Series 1,pulled the motor and rebuilt it,when you pull the front end lock the wheels so they can't turn sideways and keep the wishbone level so you don't dump the power steering resevour,get a manual,it will really help.

jmfonzy

Coupla notes..

You also need to remove the steering linkage from down where your left foot is to the coupling where the power steering is underneath the alternator.  Mine was held in place by roll pins.  Had to heat them up with a torch and then quench them with some water from the inside in order to pound them out.

We didnt need to take the steering shaft out when removing the oil pan, however , removing the engine might require that....I can't say for sure.  Try it without, you could always do it if you had to. 

OK many moons later I have my D17 Series III tractor back together with the new motor in, new radiator, muffler, plugs, wires, filters, hoses, belts, cap, fuel filter, blah, blah blah! I have got the tractor cranking but it is not turning over! What's the problem? I put cylinder 1 at TDC on the compression stroke and then placed the distributer so that the rotor was aiming at cylinder 1. I wired the plugs in order 1, 2, 4, 3 (cylinder 1 I assumed was closest to the radiator and then I went towards the back end of the tractor in clockwise order). Once everything was in place I then checked to see if I had spark on cylinder 1 by removing the plug wire off of the spark plug and holding it about a 1/4 inch from the block while I cranked it. I saw a pretty strong arc. I then put the wire back and tried to crank it again. . . still nothing. I did a no no next . . . I put some gas into the carburator assuming it had none in it (which it did not). Then I tried to crank it again. I almost blew myself up! The backfire that happened was great and it made me think I was on some battlefied during the civil war days, but the engine did not crank. What am I missing??? Help!

Thanks! Now I have the I & T shop manual and it said to use .025 gap so that is what I used. I found TDC (when # 1 is at it's highest point on the compression stroke) by having my wife stand there with a flashlight pointed down the hole and one of her hairs in hand to check when the cylinder blew the hair out and was at it's highest point before going down. Then I pointed the rotor button directly at that cylinder. The cap only lines up with the rotor button between wires 1 & 3 (since the firing order is 1, 2, 4, 3. Do you think the cap needs to be aligned with the rotor button pointing directly at wire 1 and cylinder 1? I wonder if the starter is not spinning fast enough to let the motor fire up? The battery is weak. I boosted it with our Suburban and it spun faster, but still did not turn over. I am at a loss. I got another problem too. I cut the steerring shaft when I took out the motor and now I need to weld it back, but the darn thing won't budge! I drilled out the pin that holds it in place, but the shaft is stuck in the universal coupling. Any ideas on how to get that out of there?

where you from in TN i live here to lol

I think I'll try to put some lockjaws on the shaft that needs to come out and then torch the universal coupling. Then I'll try to twist it off while the coupling is heat expanded. We'll see if this works. I though about trying to make an apparatus where I can "press" the shaft out of the coupling, there is probably a tool out there I am not aware of that does this, but I'll engineer me one since I don't know whagt it is if there is one.

You did right to find TDC. Rotor rotation is clockwise; firing order is 1-2-4-3; perhaps you set your plug wires in a counterclockwise rotation? Been there done that.

All D17s are 12 volt

Not All D17's are 12 volt. the first ones were 6 volt.

I believe you are out of time, follow what Charlie say's and set the rotor so it is at #1 on the CAP

OPFranzen, you might have an advance problem with your distributor??? Maybe the advance is frozen and doesn't move.