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Gleaner K, Pics and more Questions

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CrestonM View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 6:27pm
Going to look at a slick barn kept K for $1,000 OBO, supposedly runs great. If I buy it, what size deck will it fit on? 
Thanks!

P.S.- If I buy it I'll need a grain platform for it. It has a pickup header right now, and I have no use for that, so I'm open to selling it or trading for a platform.
Are the K headers specific to a K, or will something else fit, like say from a C, CII, E, G, F, etc?


Edited by CrestonM - 18 Aug 2016 at 10:33pm
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TREVMAN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TREVMAN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 7:07pm
I move my E gleaner on a 8 x 24 deck over. Pull with 1 ton crew cab dually gmc. K is basically same size machine. Figure on 10000 lbs. I believe an E head can be made to fit a K, you will need the pipe on the header for the hooks to lift/attach. As well the drive is different on the K from the E, you have to do some fab.  The other heads you mentioned do not fit. You may want to purchase road permits for width and measure your overall height and check your route for over pass height. Good luck, Trev.
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 7:19pm
Thanks! It's a mostly rural route, with no overpasses, so we should be good there. Also, farm machinery is exempt from permits in Oklahoma I believe.
If I do buy it, I'm hoping I can find a grain head soon, as I'd like to combine with it next summer!


Edited by CrestonM - 15 Aug 2016 at 7:20pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TREVMAN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 7:42pm
Buy a windrower, or what we call up here a "swather", more fun and problem solved Creston lol. ( a 15 foot would be plenty for a K)Remember, post pics, Trev.
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 8:02pm
We call 'em swathers too!
I'll post pics when I go to see it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johnwilson_osf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 8:30pm
Creston,
We had a K and a K2.  Our K2 came with a 10ft grain head.  The K2 came with a 13 or 15 foot grain head.  Not sure which, it has been a while.  But the K handled that large head with no problem. 

John
Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 9:17pm
What kind of bpa were you getting?
Were you cutting wheat?
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 10:45pm
Never mind...I won't  need a header after all! Just a reel and sickle.
That should be easier to come up with than a whole header. 
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shameless (ne) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless (ne) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 12:16am
headers are still abundant for the "K"s, I have the 13 ft on my "K" and it handled 5 rows of soybeans just fine. I also have a 238 CH and a 330 CH. have run 200+bu/acre with the 3 row, going slower than most prolly do, but most all the grain went in the tank!   I've never run wheat or oats thru mine. I think some headers off the "F"s also would fit on the "K"s too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allisguy.11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 7:45am
MAKE SURE you put a strap around the unload auger to hold it back when you stop the truck.... ask me how I know....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless (ne) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:24am
oh...yeah....X2 what allisguy says...I forgot about that! whew!
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:44am
Good to know, I probably wouldn't have though about that!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:45am
Let's see now...should I drive it 150 miles to the ranch, or find someone to haul it...
Right now I'm leaning towards the latter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 9:50am
when ya go look, take a tape measure..but I think a K should fit on a 102" trailer easily, without the head.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 9:53am
Depends how hard a dollar is to come by for you. Check tire pressures,all fluids,and jack up back wheels and spin em for wheel brg check.Lot easier to repack before leaving than along roadside in middle of nowhere.Gas it and go!Take wrench to adjust toe in.Off much can be SOB to drive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:18am
The gleaner K is a great little machine. Trailer it home, if possible. If driving, count on 15 mph, stops, for speed. Actual speed maybe figure closer to 12mph?

Before you buy & drive, a few biggies to check for
- good brakes, (two wheel & one transmission)
- proper variable speed control of transmission,
- equal tire pressures,
- hydraulic fluid level,
- engine coolant level.

The real PIA things that can happen while driving an older gleaner that has not been run in years are;
- hydraulic pump drive belt fails. If this happens, you loose hydraulic steering & variable speed of transmission. Replacing this belt requires loosing front engine's pto shaft's 2 mount bearings, plus loosing dual fan belts that drive pto shaft & removing grain tank unloader drive belt.
- water pumps fails. O'Reillys have an inexpensive industrial Gm250 pump. Hint, it's is not the same water pump as early 1970's GM C10 pickups, which have a shorter shaft housing...
- alternator goes out. Have a spare ready to light flashers and some night driving.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:19am
Loosening, not loosing. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:41am
Originally posted by AC7060IL AC7060IL wrote:

The gleaner K is a great little machine. Trailer it home, if possible. If driving, count on 15 mph, stops, for speed. Actual speed maybe figure closer to 12mph?

Before you buy & drive, a few biggies to check for
- good brakes, (two wheel & one transmission)
- proper variable speed control of transmission,
- equal tire pressures,
- hydraulic fluid level,
- engine coolant level.

The real PIA things that can happen while driving an older gleaner that has not been run in years are;
- hydraulic pump drive belt fails. If this happens, you loose hydraulic steering & variable speed of transmission. Replacing this belt requires loosing front engine's pto shaft's 2 mount bearings, plus loosing dual fan belts that drive pto shaft & removing grain tank unloader drive belt.
- water pumps fails. O'Reillys have an inexpensive industrial Gm250 pump. Hint, it's is not the same water pump as early 1970's GM C10 pickups, which have a shorter shaft housing...
- alternator goes out. Have a spare ready to light flashers and some night driving.

Thanks!! I know nothing about driving a Gleaner like this, so I guess I need to get a manual first, if I buy the combine. Getting pretty excited about going to see it later this week. 
Here's a pic of the operator's station (Look! It has music! LOL) I understand the obvious foot controls, and I see the throttle and the gear shift, and I think the other lever is the variable speed and header lift, right? Forward for faster, back for slower, and up and down for lift action? When you say proper variable speed action, do you just mean it changes speed smoothly?

Also, I know on the 100 combines you have to be stopped to engage the separator, is the K the same way? Or is there a lever you can just pull/push while you're moving?

Thanks!
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CrestonM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:42am
Owner *claims* it's field ready. 
If I do get it, first thing I'm doing is tuning up the engine and replacing ALL the belts! I don't want to end up like ol' Joe at Hutch with his T Gleaner. He made a nice round around the field, then he stopped for a minute, and when he took off again...well....he didn't! The variable speed belt snapped! 
Heck, I even had trouble with the SP-100! The bin unloader drive belt snapped! It was probably an original belt though. It's a bear to replace too.



Edited by CrestonM - 16 Aug 2016 at 10:50am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:48am
Also, how hard are the headers to take on/off? 
SP-100 combine headers are bears, but I'd think these would be easier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:29am
Creston - you can engage/disengage the separator on the go.  Lever is on your right hand side below the seat next to console area.

Doesn't look like a quik-attach header so it's a four-hook head.   If you have the rock door tool, you use the end of the handle to push in the spring loaded "pins" that lock each "hook" into the feederhouse so you can lower it/back away.  They could be well rusted so take some kind of rust solvent to soak them and you may have to hammer them in, just don't ding up the pins.   The manual probably describes this better.   Of course you have to unhook any belts or chains driving the head and any hydraulic hoses (don't believe you'd have any on a pick-up head).   Mike
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:30am
Viewing operator's station photo;
- Trans gear shift is near top of photo. It has "H" pattern. Reverse is closest at forward position. 1st is straight below Reverse. 2nd is in forward position on far side. 3rd is straight below 2nd.
- engine choke & throttle cable (smaller levers are by radio box.
- Header height (up/down) & Trans Variable speed (fast-forward/slow-backward) is on front console just left of gear shift.
- machine separator clutch engage/disengage lever is located on lower console (can't be seen in photo) right side of operator's seat.

General info:
Transmission variable speed (operator's) lever activates a small hydraulic piston at variable speed drive belt sheaves. When operator moves lever forward, it opens hydraulic valve to let oil piston push sheaves together which in turns, speeds up drive belt. Opposite happens when operator moves lever backward.

Machine separator clutch can be engaged & disengaged at any time. But it's recommended to only engage separator at low engine idle speed.

Front drive tires could be 18.4-26" or 16.9-26". 18.4s were popular for better floatations. Rear tires are usually 7.5-16".
GM250 is simple non electronic ignition 6 cylinder. Book says set timing at 0 TDC. It's best to set at 6 degrees BTDC. Carb is single barrel downdraft type with fan belt driven governor. This governor is self lubricated - check & keep oil at drain hole. Uses same oil as engine (good straight 30w). Governor should level carb's rpms sharply when throttle is opened up quickly. Carb may hunt once or twice then smooth off sharply. If carb continues to hunt, governor linkage needs adjusted. To adjust governor, change out alternator, replace fan belts, & repair pto shaft bearings, remove grain tank access panel from inside grain tank.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:35am
Thanks Mike and AC7060IL! You guys' information is a great help!

AC...when you talk about the governor being self lubricated...you mean it has its own little reservoir I need to check and maybe add oil to?
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:56am
Yes, governor is a self contained unit. It has a top fill hole & a side full hole. Use a 7/16" wrench to remove hole bolts.
Yes, get an operators manual & parts manual if you buy machine. AGCO parts counter person will love you when you offer original part number. Many numbers have been updated or can quickly tell them if its discontinued.

For the most part, these machines are very simple. Just track hydraulic lines, wires, linkage, chains, & belts to figure what runs what & where it's going or coming from. They were designed with a centerline configuration. Cab or operators station is centered for head & equal side to side machine balance. Machine weight is centered mostly near rear of drive wheels to offer the best traction. So, If you are driving it with a header in the raised position - go slow as steer tires can easily bounce off ground.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 12:15pm
One thing that I see is that this combine is not set up for reel control.  There should be a second lever like the variable speed/header height lever that is for the reel height and speed. 
Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dmpaul89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 12:56pm
You'll pry change your mind on replacing every belt when you see how much they cost....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote acd21man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:04pm
idk bout your laws and such but we have hauled F,2,3s with a 4 row corn head and we had a e and k2 once that we hauled with the platforms still on. on  our trailer and ton dodge  just gota watch for signs lol and hauled them pretty far also
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote acd21man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:05pm
and i see that steering wheel still has alota white left on it or is that just dust?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by acd21man acd21man wrote:

and i see that steering wheel still has alota white left on it or is that just dust?
I think it's white. I'll find out later. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:23pm
Originally posted by Joe(OH) Joe(OH) wrote:

One thing that I see is that this combine is not set up for reel control.  There should be a second lever like the variable speed/header height lever that is for the reel height and speed. 
Oh "reely"? Lol!
So does that mean I'd need to find a lot more parts to put a reel on it? I was thinking just pull the alfalfa pick up, slide in a sickle, and find a reel for it, but that may not be the case.


Edited by CrestonM - 16 Aug 2016 at 1:25pm
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