Lovejoy style coupling,,,???

if that's one of them aluminum ones with the rubber in between the jaws, it won't work, but they do make them with steel too, those might work! can't you make something on yer lathe? I do declare...me thinks yer gittin lazy in yer old age! lol

   Hey Shameless,,,,,,,,,,you just shot my idea on the Lovejoy coupling all to haides,,,,,
   that shaft has to have "some" type of support on either of the two ends,,,it can't just float. The shaft has a small roller chain at the pump end and the shaft was somewhat "supported" by the splines at the crankshaft end,,,,,,or am I makin somethong outa nothing,,????
Whar's them engineers when Ya need em,,,????

Joe stiners sells an adaptor which will bolt right onto your crank shaft pullie and take the six spline shaft from the Ford tractor.   Just call them with the spacing between the bolts then buy the Ford shaft and either extend it yourself or have a machine shop extend it. That is what I did with my d17 and d15.   No one around here wanted to cut the splines but they where happy to cut the shaft put it in a lathe and add a section to make it longer.
Those love joy couplers won't work for anything more then about 12 hp on the front of your tractor it will run the hydraulic pump for about 6 weeks before it falls apart... you need the spline shaft on the crank end to allow the motor to rock and the shaft to slide in and out just a little and the double roller chain on the front to take the force and fit in the space infront of the tractor between the motor and the pump. Surpluse center has the roller chain setup but you have to be careful to buy the really small one or it won't fit.

Edited by Dan73 - 31 Jan 2016 at 10:28am

http://www.steinertractor.com/ABC1809-front-hydraulic-pump-drive-hub-adapter?CID=ABC1809&gclid=CJe66-DF1MoCFYEfHwod_TQAfQ
Joe you want one of these but make sure you check the centerline spacing between the bolts. They have the right one to match your d14 j just don't remember the bolt spacing.

I looked at a Lovejoy when setting up the front pump on my D17.  Didn't have enough room for it after I had the pump mounts made.  A double chain coupler is just as good and takes up a lot less space.
AaronSEIA

crank pullie
front pump drive hub
shaft
That is the set you want but the shaft is too short. It was cheaper for me to buy the short shaft and have it extended don't know why but no one I talked to a few years wanted to cut the splines.

I bought the 13" X 3/4" shaft which had 6 splines on one end and a keyway on the other along with the crankshaft adapter from e-bay about 3 years ago for my D-17.

Back in the '90s I ran a feed mill on a turkey farm. The feed grinder had a 30hp 3 phase motor with a Lovejoy coupler. As I recall, only replaced the rubber once in 2 yrs. Just gotta get the right size for the HP.

DANG,,,lots of great info ,,,,The shaft on this tractor is 1",,,13" long with a 1/4" keyway and a sprocket at pump end. The crankshaft end is a 4 bolt hub that is 4" OD and bolt spacing at 2 3/4" with 3/8" bolts (7/16" bore),,,and according to one of the Guys is same as a D17,,,???
   If I switch to the 3/4" shaft,,I will have to buy the hub, shaft and a new 3/4" sprocket,and prolly the dang chain as well!!!,,,,may have to but I'm still lookin,,,,,,
In lookin at the Baum Industrial catalog that Brian mentioned,, there is a weld-on spline bore,,,but the OD is too big and would get into the bolt holes of the hub,,,,CHIT,,,,,there is also a square bore weld-on that might be promising but I could not find the chart that listed the dimensions,,,,,
I'm also thinkin,,, and let me throw this out there for the GURUs,,,,,How bout I machine out the splines in the hub and make a short "stub shaft" with 4 flats and weld this into the hub,,,,,then,,,machine 4 flats on the shaft,,,and make a rigid coupler bout 4" long with 4 allens at each end,,,,??? TEN FOUR,,,????
Keep bringin in these ideas and I'll leave Ya'll alone,,,,,,,,,yeah right,,,!!!

I think if you don't allow the coupling to slide towards the motor a little with the spline shaft you will wipe out the front seal in the pump. I know my old shaft showed ware that pointed out it was sliding in and out over time I am assuming this is important to protect the pump.

Hey Dan,,,well that's an idea bout mating the sprocket/shaft end to this new 3/4" shaft/hub and I had NOT measured for a possible solid coupling yet but do know there ain't a heck of a lot of extra room there,,,,
I don't know what kind of sealing assy there is on the pump but if it is a mechanical seal, there shouldn't be any end play movement or the faces separate and the pumpage will leak and prolly ruin the seal.
I might be wrong,,but I really think the reason the Mfgrs used this type of coupling arrangement for these pumps is so that either the pump/shaft/hub/ could be replaced with out having to remove engine.,,,,?????
Dang,,why do these simple things got to be so complicated,,,??????

Take a look at a TB Woods Duraflex coupling. I don't have the chart in front of me but will have later today. They take a fair amount of movement and are very easy to install.

If you need any help sizing any coupling feel free to ask, part of my real job is selling them.

.

Edited by Fred in Pa - 15 Mar 2016 at 7:03am

I bought the pump from surplus center. The bracket I had made by a local shop I am sure if you called a salvage yard they would have one off an individual loader tractor.

Hey Dan,,Do you remember where you got the drive shaft and the hub for your loader,,??