WD45 Final Drives RE-Visited

Slide hammer for the outer race. Bearing splitter for the inner is what I use.

Shouldn't be too tough to get out, as the bore doesn't 'overhang' the edge, and they're buried in oil, so you shouldn't have a ridge of crud in the way.  You have really good access here, so a slide hammer with reversed jaws should pop it out in three good whacks.

IF... for some odd reason, the race has spun or snagged, you can take a dremel with diamond or carborundum wheel, and cut deep grooves in it, then get a drift pin against it enough to shatter one piece out, the rest will come out easy.

If a bearing splitter won't pull that bearing off, use same tactic, cut the roller-cage, get down to the inner race, notch it in three spots, get a cold-chisel in there, whack it (at an angle), and shatter it.  They're pretty hard, so once you install a very weak spot in the race, it'll break like glass.

Like others have said, removing the cups shouldn't be a problem. If you do have trouble, an easy fix is to weld a wavy bead around the inside of the cup. When the weld cools it will shrink and the cup will fall out. Putting in new cups can easily be done with a hammer and a soft punch. Just work around the diameter so it goes in straight and even. Light tapping in a circular pattern is much better than a BFH from side to side if ya know what I mean. You shouldn't have to freeze or heat anything to reassemble.
 Pulling the cone off the shaft might take a bearing splitter. A small amount of heat on the inner race will let you drop it on the shaft for reassembly but probably isn't necessary.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 28 May 2010 at 3:33pm

I'm with the group on the slide hammer. Just clean up the bore with a little degreaser and some fine sandpaper to make sure there are no burs or crud for the race to hang on. It should come out easily with the slide hammer. If not, I recommend Charlies' method of welding around the inside of the race. Just make sure to coat the rest of the bore with anti-spatter paste so the little weld boogers don't stick to it and make burs for the race to hang on. If you have steady hands or a good rest and no bearing splitter, use a cutting torch to slice across the tapered bearing. Get on one side, cut the retainer ring off. Let that stuff hit the floor. Cut across the inner ring until you get almost through. You can see the bearing metal will be bright yellow in color, where the axle will be darker. Just don't go too far, or you will nick the shaft and make a weak spot. Turn the shaft 90 degrees and do the same for the other side if that doesn't relief enough stress for the bearing to be tapped off. You may want to whack it with a chisel to help it. Wear safety glasses. That bearing will shatter like glass, and it has a lot of force behind it when it comes apart. Had a pillow block bearing from a piece of equipment shatter as I was taking it off. Piece of bearing went across the knuckle of my left middle finger. After I took off the leather glove, I found a surgical cut all the way to, and neatly into the knuckle bone. Glove had an identical cut. No ragged edges whatsoever. Didn't even start bleeding til I got the glove off, but it made up for it when it did. Just be careful in whatever method you use. It's not worth going to the ER for.

And if you don't have an air chisel and want to use Jesse's method of scoring the cone race, you can set a cold chisel in the score mark, cover with a heavy rag and smack it with a big hammer.  

To remove the cups, or races, weld them out.  Run a hot bead of weld around the inside of the bearing surface of the race, full circle.  When it cools the weld bead will shrink, taking the race with it and it will fall out. I have used this tecnique many times, always with success.