WD45 Final Drives RE-Visited
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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13080
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Topic: WD45 Final Drives RE-Visited
Posted By: Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
Subject: WD45 Final Drives RE-Visited
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 1:59pm
I pulled the main axle out with no trouble at all. Found the culprit of the noise and reason for it seizing up. The inner bearing was toast. Bearing cup very pitted. The outer was similar but seemed a bit better. Next question: What do you masters of the iron use to pull those cups and reseat the new ones? I assume the stadnard bearing pullers will work. Just curious what anyone else has done with success. Was thinking of the process - bearing cups in the freezer for a good while, and then a little heat on the bore. Thoughts......
   ------------- 1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater" |
Replies:
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 2:11pm
| Slide hammer for the outer race. Bearing splitter for the inner is what I use. |
Posted By: Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 2:29pm
|
Hey Glock
How stubborn are they to get out after 50 years of abuse? What about putting them in? ------------- 1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater" |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 3:19pm
|
Shouldn't be too tough to get out, as the bore doesn't 'overhang' the edge, and they're buried in oil, so you shouldn't have a ridge of crud in the way. You have really good access here, so a slide hammer with reversed jaws should pop it out in three good whacks. IF... for some odd reason, the race has spun or snagged, you can take a dremel with diamond or carborundum wheel, and cut deep grooves in it, then get a drift pin against it enough to shatter one piece out, the rest will come out easy. If a bearing splitter won't pull that bearing off, use same tactic, cut the roller-cage, get down to the inner race, notch it in three spots, get a cold-chisel in there, whack it (at an angle), and shatter it. They're pretty hard, so once you install a very weak spot in the race, it'll break like glass. |
Posted By: TomMN
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 3:22pm
| I think I used a punch from the back side on the cups. With all the innards out a long punch from one side can drive out the cup on the other side. The cone probably needs a bearing splitter as mentioned. Tom |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 3:32pm
|
Like others have said, removing the cups shouldn't be a problem. If you do have trouble, an easy fix is to weld a wavy bead around the inside of the cup. When the weld cools it will shrink and the cup will fall out. Putting in new cups can easily be done with a hammer and a soft punch. Just work around the diameter so it goes in straight and even. Light tapping in a circular pattern is much better than a BFH from side to side if ya know what I mean. You shouldn't have to freeze or heat anything to reassemble. Pulling the cone off the shaft might take a bearing splitter. A small amount of heat on the inner race will let you drop it on the shaft for reassembly but probably isn't necessary. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 4:01pm
|
VW engine builders used an electric frying pan with some oil in it to heat bearings to slip on the crankshaft on assembly. Those bearings came off stubbornly with a puller. Any automotive machine ship is equiped to change the axle bearings, they have a bearing grabber to use with the hydraulic press and an assortment of sleeves or pushing plates to push the new one on, should take ten minutes or less. Though I recall taking one to a shop and their bearing tool was broken so they cut off the roller retainer (or that may have been a ball bearing, rear axle 1964 Ford car) then set the inner race on a steel brick, put a rag over it to catch flying pieces, put on sturdy safety glasses, and pounded on the race with a 5 or 10 pound hammer. A couple whacks and the race split and fell off. They asked me to wait outside incase of flying pieces. I didn't see any marks on the shaft, and they pushed on the new bearing without a problem. Gerald J. |
Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 4:54pm
| I'm with the group on the slide hammer. Just clean up the bore with a little degreaser and some fine sandpaper to make sure there are no burs or crud for the race to hang on. It should come out easily with the slide hammer. If not, I recommend Charlies' method of welding around the inside of the race. Just make sure to coat the rest of the bore with anti-spatter paste so the little weld boogers don't stick to it and make burs for the race to hang on. If you have steady hands or a good rest and no bearing splitter, use a cutting torch to slice across the tapered bearing. Get on one side, cut the retainer ring off. Let that stuff hit the floor. Cut across the inner ring until you get almost through. You can see the bearing metal will be bright yellow in color, where the axle will be darker. Just don't go too far, or you will nick the shaft and make a weak spot. Turn the shaft 90 degrees and do the same for the other side if that doesn't relief enough stress for the bearing to be tapped off. You may want to whack it with a chisel to help it. Wear safety glasses. That bearing will shatter like glass, and it has a lot of force behind it when it comes apart. Had a pillow block bearing from a piece of equipment shatter as I was taking it off. Piece of bearing went across the knuckle of my left middle finger. After I took off the leather glove, I found a surgical cut all the way to, and neatly into the knuckle bone. Glove had an identical cut. No ragged edges whatsoever. Didn't even start bleeding til I got the glove off, but it made up for it when it did. Just be careful in whatever method you use. It's not worth going to the ER for. |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 5:02pm
| They shouldn't be too bad. The last WD I did they were a very loose pressed fit. I was able to put them back together with a hammer and a pipe. I typically use a brass punch to install the outer race. Another way to remove the inner race from the axle is to take a cut off wheel and cut the cage and rollers off. Then take your cut off wheel and score the race taking care not to cut into the axle. Then with an air hammer take a chisel and put it in the cut. Apply pressure to the trigger and it should crack the race. Pull off by hand. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 6:35pm
|
And if you don't have an air chisel and want to use Jesse's method of scoring the cone race, you can set a cold chisel in the score mark, cover with a heavy rag and smack it with a big hammer.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: norm [ind]
Date Posted: 28 May 2010 at 9:32pm
| easiest fix is get another final drive |
Posted By: Bret (OH)
Date Posted: 29 May 2010 at 6:00am
| To remove the cups, or races, weld them out. Run a hot bead of weld around the inside of the bearing surface of the race, full circle. When it cools the weld bead will shrink, taking the race with it and it will fall out. I have used this tecnique many times, always with success. |