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Stadium light wiring help

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Joe(OH) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Stadium light wiring help
    Posted: 08 May 2010 at 10:32am
I put a set of stadium lights on my 7020 a few weeks ago.  Was out working ground at night and turned them all on.  Worked great for about a minute then everything got dark.  I shut the stadium lights off and waited a little and then I got all my lights back.  I found out I can run the rears but not the fronts.  Im almost positive that there are no shorts in the system.  When I wired them in I found a wire in the cab roof that is blue and has power only when the flood lights are on, and this is what I wired them in to.  Anyone have any idea where my problem is?
 Thanks for the help,
 Joe
Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.
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DSeries4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2010 at 10:36am
Did you put a bigger fuse in to handle all that needed power?  Years ago I added one extra work light to my 175 and kept popping fuses.  Once I put a larger fuse in, the problems stopped.
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AdamA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdamA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2010 at 11:25am

Factory stadium lights were wired through a separate circuit and switch for front and rear. Your pulling too many amps through your circuit breaker either on the firewall or in the cab roof.After it cools off it resets.You will need too run another fused circuit for the lights or you risk a fire.

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orangereborn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote orangereborn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2010 at 12:53pm

Joe(OH)  When I got my 7080 only the two lites on the front and two on the rear worked.  The rest were just unpluged.  So I decided to get them all working and then I had the same problem.  Only one lead going from the relay (ford type Started soleniod) to the stadium switches which was fused with a 20 amp fuse/breaker.  Put in a 25 amp and has been fine.  I thought also it should have two leads, but have not figured out how to get the second line to the switches. I think the load will be about 23/25 amps for the stadium lites and I believe the floods are tied in that circuit also.  My breaker get warm but wires are cool.  So far okay.....Dale 

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Joe(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2010 at 1:52pm
Where is the breaker located at?  Thanks for the help.
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AdamA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdamA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2010 at 4:36pm

On my 7000 there are two breakers under the roof beside the Radio and you can run fronts off of one and rears off the other depending on your lights 55w halogen pull quite a bit more than the factory lights,I pulled power off the breakers and mounted my switches next to the A/C -wiper controls.There should be a Heavy(10ga.) wire feeding the breakers if nothing else just run another 10ga.up from the starter or battery to feed your lights. I used heavy duty 30 amp switches and elminated the relays.

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Joe(TX) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(TX) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2010 at 9:26pm
You need a relay and another circuit breaker for stadium lights. Like Adam said, they use seperate switches front and rear. The relays and breakers are on the right side firewall. You need to run a larger wire for the stadium lights. Look at the wiring digram for guidance.
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orangereborn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote orangereborn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2010 at 9:53pm
Joe(OH)  My circuit breaker is fasten next to Solonoid at the right rear corner of the engine on the firewall.  It is a single 10 guage wire leading from the solonoid/breaker to the stadium switches.  8  guage power lead to the solonoid....Dale
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7060 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 7060 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2010 at 12:00am
I had the same thing when someone wired up a a light bar on top of my 7060. They ran a 18 gauge wire and it would get really hot, and the lights were always dim. It would trip the breaker on the ignition switch and ide loose dashlights and all. I finally ran a new wire from the battery to a toggle switch on the dash and then on up to the lights using bigger wire and put a 15a fuse off the battery. Someone had done away with my firewall breakers.
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SHAMELESS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2010 at 2:59am
i turned on my statium lights last night on my 7080, they have been working fine til then, now the fronts black out, then after awhile i can turn them back on! don't have time to trace wires now, will check on them later, maybe i'll just run new wires and switches like 7060 did.
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pineyjd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pineyjd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2010 at 5:18am
Divide your watts by voltage this will give amps,there is a web site that has wiring size/ratings for voltage drop etc. for 12volts
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