Farm Equipment - Stadium light wiring help

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Stadium light wiring help

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12127
Printed Date: 30 Jan 2025 at 9:29pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Stadium light wiring help

Posted By: Joe(OH)
Subject: Stadium light wiring help
Date Posted: 08 May 2010 at 10:32am

I put a set of stadium lights on my 7020 a few weeks ago. Was out working ground at night and turned them all on. Worked great for about a minute then everything got dark. I shut the stadium lights off and waited a little and then I got all my lights back. I found out I can run the rears but not the fronts. Im almost positive that there are no shorts in the system. When I wired them in I found a wire in the cab roof that is blue and has power only when the flood lights are on, and this is what I wired them in to. Anyone have any idea where my problem is?
Thanks for the help,
Joe

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Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.

Replies:

Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 08 May 2010 at 10:36am

Did you put a bigger fuse in to handle all that needed power? Years ago I added one extra work light to my 175 and kept popping fuses. Once I put a larger fuse in, the problems stopped.

Posted By: AdamA
Date Posted: 08 May 2010 at 11:25am

Factory stadium lights were wired through a separate circuit and switch for front and rear. Your pulling too many amps through your circuit breaker either on the firewall or in the cab roof.After it cools off it resets.You will need too run another fused circuit for the lights or you risk a fire.

Posted By: orangereborn
Date Posted: 08 May 2010 at 12:53pm

Joe(OH) When I got my 7080 only the two lites on the front and two on the rear worked. The rest were just unpluged. So I decided to get them all working and then I had the same problem. Only one lead going from the relay (ford type Started soleniod) to the stadium switches which was fused with a 20 amp fuse/breaker. Put in a 25 amp and has been fine. I thought also it should have two leads, but have not figured out how to get the second line to the switches. I think the load will be about 23/25 amps for the stadium lites and I believe the floods are tied in that circuit also. My breaker get warm but wires are cool. So far okay.....Dale

Posted By: Joe(OH)
Date Posted: 08 May 2010 at 1:52pm

Where is the breaker located at? Thanks for the help.

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Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.

Posted By: AdamA
Date Posted: 08 May 2010 at 4:36pm

On my 7000 there are two breakers under the roof beside the Radio and you can run fronts off of one and rears off the other depending on your lights 55w halogen pull quite a bit more than the factory lights,I pulled power off the breakers and mounted my switches next to the A/C -wiper controls.There should be a Heavy(10ga.) wire feeding the breakers if nothing else just run another 10ga.up from the starter or battery to feed your lights. I used heavy duty 30 amp switches and elminated the relays.

Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 08 May 2010 at 9:26pm

You need a relay and another circuit breaker for stadium lights. Like Adam said, they use seperate switches front and rear. The relays and breakers are on the right side firewall. You need to run a larger wire for the stadium lights. Look at the wiring digram for guidance.

Posted By: orangereborn
Date Posted: 08 May 2010 at 9:53pm

Joe(OH) My circuit breaker is fasten next to Solonoid at the right rear corner of the engine on the firewall. It is a single 10 guage wire leading from the solonoid/breaker to the stadium switches. 8 guage power lead to the solonoid....Dale

Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 12:00am

I had the same thing when someone wired up a a light bar on top of my 7060. They ran a 18 gauge wire and it would get really hot, and the lights were always dim. It would trip the breaker on the ignition switch and ide loose dashlights and all. I finally ran a new wire from the battery to a toggle switch on the dash and then on up to the lights using bigger wire and put a 15a fuse off the battery. Someone had done away with my firewall breakers.

Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 2:59am

i turned on my statium lights last night on my 7080, they have been working fine til then, now the fronts black out, then after awhile i can turn them back on! don't have time to trace wires now, will check on them later, maybe i'll just run new wires and switches like 7060 did.

Posted By: pineyjd
Date Posted: 09 May 2010 at 5:18am

Divide your watts by voltage this will give amps,there is a web site that has wiring size/ratings for voltage drop etc. for 12volts