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220 fuel system

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Riggs/Ia View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: Iowa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riggs/Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 220 fuel system
    Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 3:38pm
i have a 220 that when I shut it off and go to restart it it won't start. I've replaced the fuel plunger and the check valves in it. If I plunge it it will start right up. When I plunge it it takes fuel and then becomes full and starts. I had some injector lines off this winter to work on the oil cooler and was wondering if I need to bleed each line at the pump and at the injector? Once you get it running it stays running and does not miss even under load. Thanks in advance Mark
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kip in cny View Drop Down
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Joined: 29 Nov 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kip in cny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 3:46pm
sound like you have a leak and letting air into your fuel letting it bleed back.      Also welcome to the allis page.  
160 CA 920diesel 5020 HD-3
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DougG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 8:07pm
I had a 200 do this, on all the fuel lines going to the pump there are rubber seals called - packing-  one is leaking getting air in the lines ; also check the plunger , I take them off and pitch em and replumb the fuel line , if you have even a quarter tank of   fuel in the tank it,ll bleed its self ; check all the lines , if I have any trouble at all I just put all new packings on the lines ; saves headaches  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dans 7080 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 12:14am
My 7040 did the same thing about 3 years ago. It took two people to start it (one to crank and one to push the fuel primer) When it was started it wouldnt idle but if you kept the rpms up it would run fine. It didnt leak any fuel either. After checking it out in depth it had a fuel line with a small hole in it (small enough that it could suck air but fuel couldnt get out) After replacing the line its still going strong.
 
 
Dan
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skipwelte View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skipwelte Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 12:57pm
Hard starting hot is a sign of a worn hydralic head in the pump.  Hard start cold could be suction issue or air being introduced into the return fittings which siphon fuel out of the pump back to the tank.  HTH
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 2:45pm
I first thought Hyd Head too, but I dont think priming it would help that, and he can get it started by pumping the hand primer from what I understand. Riggs, does it ever start on its own? like first start? possible metering valve is sticking also.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2010 at 3:52pm
AS soon as you cut it off, go down and loosen the sediment bowl on the rh side of the back of the engine.  IF it emits a sucking sound the line to the tank is stopped up or restricted. Blow back into tank and this should fix til the plug hits the tank shut off inlet again. We finally removed the tank and flushed - my 210 was doing the same thing. An alternative is to insert a stand pipe up in the tank as in a roll pin in the out let fitting.  IF this is not it check the transfer pump pressure at cranking speed - screw a guage in the pluged pipe fmale hole on the bottom of the transfer pump right under the top inlet.  A broken spring on a transfer blade pair can result in low cranking speed transfer pump pressure.  
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