220 fuel system
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10971
Printed Date: 23 Jan 2025 at 5:11pm
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Topic: 220 fuel system
Posted By: Riggs/Ia
Subject: 220 fuel system
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 3:38pm
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i have a 220 that when I shut it off and go to restart it it won't start. I've replaced the fuel plunger and the check valves in it. If I plunge it it will start right up. When I plunge it it takes fuel and then becomes full and starts. I had some injector lines off this winter to work on the oil cooler and was wondering if I need to bleed each line at the pump and at the injector? Once you get it running it stays running and does not miss even under load. Thanks in advance Mark
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Replies:
Posted By: kip in cny
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 3:46pm
sound like you have a leak and letting air into your fuel letting it bleed back. Also welcome to the allis page.
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160 CA 920diesel 5020 HD-3
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Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2010 at 8:07pm
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I had a 200 do this, on all the fuel lines going to the pump there are rubber seals called - packing- one is leaking getting air in the lines ; also check the plunger , I take them off and pitch em and replumb the fuel line , if you have even a quarter tank of fuel in the tank it,ll bleed its self ; check all the lines , if I have any trouble at all I just put all new packings on the lines ; saves headaches
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Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 12:14am
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My 7040 did the same thing about 3 years ago. It took two people to start it (one to crank and one to push the fuel primer) When it was started it wouldnt idle but if you kept the rpms up it would run fine. It didnt leak any fuel either. After checking it out in depth it had a fuel line with a small hole in it (small enough that it could suck air but fuel couldnt get out) After replacing the line its still going strong.
Dan
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Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 12:57pm
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Hard starting hot is a sign of a worn hydralic head in the pump. Hard start cold could be suction issue or air being introduced into the return fittings which siphon fuel out of the pump back to the tank. HTH
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2010 at 2:45pm
I first thought Hyd Head too, but I dont think priming it would help that, and he can get it started by pumping the hand primer from what I understand. Riggs, does it ever start on its own? like first start? possible metering valve is sticking also.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2010 at 3:52pm
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AS soon as you cut it off, go down and loosen the sediment bowl on the rh side of the back of the engine. IF it emits a sucking sound the line to the tank is stopped up or restricted. Blow back into tank and this should fix til the plug hits the tank shut off inlet again. We finally removed the tank and flushed - my 210 was doing the same thing. An alternative is to insert a stand pipe up in the tank as in a roll pin in the out let fitting. IF this is not it check the transfer pump pressure at cranking speed - screw a guage in the pluged pipe fmale hole on the bottom of the transfer pump right under the top inlet. A broken spring on a transfer blade pair can result in low cranking speed transfer pump pressure.
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