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8010 convert to 134?

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clint View Drop Down
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    Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:46am
what is needed? can i just vacuum and change out the drier and try it without changing all those O- rings?????
Our farms stuff: agco gt55, AA 8775, 8765, 6080, 185, 180, 175, 170, d15, d14, d14, wd, wd, wd, g, F3, L3, R62
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skipwelte View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skipwelte Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 9:47am
Yea, should work.  When R134a first came out you were supposed to change all the hoses, bigger condensor, all oring.  Well, its not so touchy, dont need to do all that stuff, if your going to keep it I would change the compressor oil to   PAG oil. 
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Hurst View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 3:29pm
Clint,
My 7000 was originally 134 when I bought it, but it had a bad hose, so I went through the entire system, replacing all the hoses, orings, expansion valve, and receiver drier.  It cost me a little bit of money, but was still under $500 I believe for all the parts.  If your system is empty and has been for some time, I would find the leak or redo the whole system, then flush out all the metal parts (evaporator and condenser) and replace the oil and receiver/drier.  Also, you should look into hydrocarbon refrigerants.  My 7000 is currently filled with propane and isobutane mix (this sounds bad, but it's a commonly used mix, and in fact both propane and isobutane are refrigerants, I think r-600 is isobutane and propane I believe is r-4**?)   Just some ideas that might help you out.  If it has r12 and is working still, I'd leave it, but I doubt that's the case, otherwise, you'd probably not be asking this question lol.

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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skipwelte View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skipwelte Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 4:24pm

They may be refrigerants, but I would stay away from any highly flammable gas.

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Gregor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:52pm
I have converted a few (7 or 8) several 7000, and 8000 series.  The proper way or legal way is to change out O'rings and Hoses if leaking.  On mine, I vacuumed the system down and added the 134A in.  I also added some stop leak, oil change and Oring conditioner.  Every year I add another can but don't feel it is worth spending a bunch of money on.  Now if you got a decent leak, 134A will leak worse as it is a smaller molecule that R12.  My neighbor just adds 134A to a R12 system that is down a little and it works great but he's and IH mechanic.  I was always told that was a no no, but he has proven me wrong as some of the systems he's converted about 12 years ago and still going strong. One place they like to leak is out of the front seal on the compressor.  Some times Oring conditioner will help and other times not.  Good luck Greg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:54pm
Meant to say oil charge and not oil change.  If system is also contaminated, due to a compressor failure, you'll need to flush the system and replace receiver/dryer, or if it had a major leak, the reciever dryer will be full of water, and that can take out the compressor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 8:19am

134a will work fine, as will Freeze 12.  134a will seep out through the non barrier hoses and I have to add , as posted , about 2 cans per year each spring and one about mid year.  We searched for hours on tractors trying to find leaks only for find out most R12 hoses will act like soakers hoses to a minute degree.  If one  can add the 134a and not overcharge, all will be fine. It is very easy to overcharge a r 12 system .  The pressures on an 8000 or 7000 system on a 85 degree day should be 225 psi on the high side and less than 15 on the low side.  Perfect would be 210 on the high side and 10 on the low.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe(TX) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 8:43pm

You need to change the oil in the system. The oil for R-12 is not compatable with R134a. Per the EPA you are required to use the barrier hoses. Recovering the existing R12 is also required.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote powertech84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:31pm
It needs to be flushed. R12 oil is not compatible with r134 oil unless by some miracle they used ester oil. Then install a new dryer, and compressor and recharge. i do it all the time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:40pm

Propane and butane a common mix for refrigerant ? Not at all. In an automotive application, that could be the difference in a fire in a crash or not. I would also be concerned with the propane/butane mix being able to properly carry the oil through out the system.

I have converted many R-12 systems to 134. All I have ever done if the system worked but was low was recover the R-12, change the service ports, evacuate, and recharge. Typically after evacuating, I add 1/2 of the system's R-12 to start and usually end up with about 3/4 of the system's capacity in 134.
Hurst, I mean no disrespect, but the person who put that flammable mix in your system should not be allowed anywhere near refrigeration equipment. 
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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