8010 convert to 134?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10252
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Topic: 8010 convert to 134?
Posted By: clint
Subject: 8010 convert to 134?
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:46am
what is needed? can i just vacuum and change out the drier and try it without changing all those O- rings?????
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Our farms stuff: agco gt55, AA 8775, 8765, 6080, 185, 180, 175, 170, d15, d14, d14, wd, wd, wd, g, F3, L3, R62
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Replies:
Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 9:47am
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Yea, should work. When R134a first came out you were supposed to change all the hoses, bigger condensor, all oring. Well, its not so touchy, dont need to do all that stuff, if your going to keep it I would change the compressor oil to PAG oil.
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Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 3:29pm
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Clint, My 7000 was originally 134 when I bought it, but it had a bad hose, so I went through the entire system, replacing all the hoses, orings, expansion valve, and receiver drier. It cost me a little bit of money, but was still under $500 I believe for all the parts. If your system is empty and has been for some time, I would find the leak or redo the whole system, then flush out all the metal parts (evaporator and condenser) and replace the oil and receiver/drier. Also, you should look into hydrocarbon refrigerants. My 7000 is currently filled with propane and isobutane mix (this sounds bad, but it's a commonly used mix, and in fact both propane and isobutane are refrigerants, I think r-600 is isobutane and propane I believe is r-4**?) Just some ideas that might help you out. If it has r12 and is working still, I'd leave it, but I doubt that's the case, otherwise, you'd probably not be asking this question lol.
Hurst
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 4:24pm
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They may be refrigerants, but I would stay away from any highly flammable gas.
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Posted By: Gregor
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:52pm
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I have converted a few (7 or 8) several 7000, and 8000 series. The proper way or legal way is to change out O'rings and Hoses if leaking. On mine, I vacuumed the system down and added the 134A in. I also added some stop leak, oil change and Oring conditioner. Every year I add another can but don't feel it is worth spending a bunch of money on. Now if you got a decent leak, 134A will leak worse as it is a smaller molecule that R12. My neighbor just adds 134A to a R12 system that is down a little and it works great but he's and IH mechanic. I was always told that was a no no, but he has proven me wrong as some of the systems he's converted about 12 years ago and still going strong. One place they like to leak is out of the front seal on the compressor. Some times Oring conditioner will help and other times not. Good luck Greg
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Posted By: Gregor
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 8:54pm
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Meant to say oil charge and not oil change. If system is also contaminated, due to a compressor failure, you'll need to flush the system and replace receiver/dryer, or if it had a major leak, the reciever dryer will be full of water, and that can take out the compressor.
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2010 at 8:19am
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134a will work fine, as will Freeze 12. 134a will seep out through the non barrier hoses and I have to add , as posted , about 2 cans per year each spring and one about mid year. We searched for hours on tractors trying to find leaks only for find out most R12 hoses will act like soakers hoses to a minute degree. If one can add the 134a and not overcharge, all will be fine. It is very easy to overcharge a r 12 system . The pressures on an 8000 or 7000 system on a 85 degree day should be 225 psi on the high side and less than 15 on the low side. Perfect would be 210 on the high side and 10 on the low.
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Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 8:43pm
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You need to change the oil in the system. The oil for R-12 is not compatable with R134a. Per the EPA you are required to use the barrier hoses. Recovering the existing R12 is also required.
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Posted By: powertech84
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:31pm
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It needs to be flushed. R12 oil is not compatible with r134 oil unless by some miracle they used ester oil. Then install a new dryer, and compressor and recharge. i do it all the time.
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2010 at 9:40pm
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Propane and butane a common mix for refrigerant ? Not at all. In an automotive application, that could be the difference in a fire in a crash or not. I would also be concerned with the propane/butane mix being able to properly carry the oil through out the system.
I have converted many R-12 systems to 134. All I have ever done if the system worked but was low was recover the R-12, change the service ports, evacuate, and recharge. Typically after evacuating, I add 1/2 of the system's R-12 to start and usually end up with about 3/4 of the system's capacity in 134.
Hurst, I mean no disrespect, but the person who put that flammable mix in your system should not be allowed anywhere near refrigeration equipment.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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