Model C engine swap

The 160 motor was different inside that I am aware of.

The D14 engine will not accept the 160 sleeves without machine work. There is an aftermarket kit available for the 149 that bumps it up to 155CID and will raise the compression to where it will not run properly on regular gas unless you back the timing up. I have done this to one engine awhile back and it could make near 50HP on the PTO at stock RPM. The cheap way to go would be find a running D15II (160CID) engine and put a D10/12 manifold on it so the exhaust lines up with the hole in the hood. Only another AC guy would be able to tell that it was not the correct engine foe a C. If you have to rebuild the D14 engine you're looking at, you could just as easily spend the money in the C block and do it up for more power. Basically all the "CE" engines are the same. I have one engine in a CA that will make 75HP on the PTO and another with a D15II engine and a turbo that is about the same. Unless you can run fast, extra power is really not completely useful. Both of my CAs will run 3rd gear at 2500 pounds. The turbo tractor has 13.6X28 tire the other one has 18.4X16.1 tires. 

Edited by PaulB - 22 Aug 2014 at 6:01pm

3-7/8" stroke is nearly all that fits without getting dangerously close to the camshaft with stock rods. I do know of someone that has used a 4" in a CE engine and all he could show me was a big hole in the side of the block. It could be possible to make things live with some custom rods with the parting angle offset. I have been running the naturally aspirated CE block for nearly 15 years without so much as a hiccup. I have put some thought into custom rods and a bit more than what I've already done, but for now any R&D is on hold. A mild improvement can be found in a reground camshaft. My experience with cam grinders is mixed to both ends of the scale. The CE head has a lot of room for improvement as well as fitting a larger carburetor to the manifold. If you were able to find a good running 149 or 160 it would be an economical drop-in. If you are going to do a full rebuild, the CE could be built for about the same cost with only one minor dis-advantage. What weigh class are you running? If you are serious about a well built CE I have a mate to the one I'm running that needs assembly, send me a PM

PaulB wrote: 3-7/8" stroke is nearly all that fits without getting dangerously close to the camshaft with stock rods. I do know of someone that has used a 4" in a CE engine and all he could show me was a big hole in the side of the block. It could be possible to make things live with some custom rods with the parting angle offset. I have been running the naturally aspirated CE block for nearly 15 years without so much as a hiccup. I have put some thought into custom rods and a bit more than what I've already done, but for now any R&D is on hold. A mild improvement can be found in a reground camshaft. My experience with cam grinders is mixed to both ends of the scale. The CE head has a lot of room for improvement as well as fitting a larger carburetor to the manifold. If you were able to find a good running 149 or 160 it would be an economical drop-in. If you are going to do a full rebuild, the CE could be built for about the same cost with only one minor dis-advantage. What weigh class are you running? If you are serious about a well built CE I have a mate to the one I'm running that needs assembly, send me a PM

I have a 4 inch stroke in both a B and a C block. I put a hole in the block because welded rods. I went back to standard rods, two head gaskets and a 3/16 spacer between the two head gaskets. That is the B I can make rooster tails pulling a 12 foot spring tooth with 11.2 X 24's.
I use it out in a field every once in a while. Haven't pulled for ten years.



Edited by Dick L - 25 Aug 2014 at 8:32pm