Model C engine swap
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Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=94122
Printed Date: 24 Nov 2024 at 5:42pm
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Topic: Model C engine swap
Posted By: DaSquatch
Subject: Model C engine swap
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2014 at 8:33am
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As a winter project, we are considering an engine swap in my daughters model c puller. Have the opportunity to buy a d14 engine that needs a rebuild. Since we would need to rebuild it, we would like to bump it up to the 160 cu of the d15 series II and put it in her c. So, the question is, does anyone know of any complications that I need to know about before we get started, either with the engine build or the physical installation?
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Replies:
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2014 at 8:35am
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The 160 motor was different inside that I am aware of. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2014 at 3:16pm
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the G160 kits are HIGH $ - might suggest - getting a std kit (cheap) and boring to your 3 5/8" or so and find pistons to get desired CR look at agcopartsbooks.com and G138 g149 g160 catalogue. Rods are different on the 160 as is the head.... g160 was the series II d15 and dozers and forklift. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2014 at 5:55pm
| The D14 engine will not accept the 160 sleeves without machine work. There is an aftermarket kit available for the 149 that bumps it up to 155CID and will raise the compression to where it will not run properly on regular gas unless you back the timing up. I have done this to one engine awhile back and it could make near 50HP on the PTO at stock RPM. The cheap way to go would be find a running D15II (160CID) engine and put a D10/12 manifold on it so the exhaust lines up with the hole in the hood. Only another AC guy would be able to tell that it was not the correct engine foe a C. If you have to rebuild the D14 engine you're looking at, you could just as easily spend the money in the C block and do it up for more power. Basically all the "CE" engines are the same. I have one engine in a CA that will make 75HP on the PTO and another with a D15II engine and a turbo that is about the same. Unless you can run fast, extra power is really not completely useful. Both of my CAs will run 3rd gear at 2500 pounds. The turbo tractor has 13.6X28 tire the other one has 18.4X16.1 tires. |
Posted By: DaSquatch
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2014 at 2:58pm
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75 horsepower? Wow! That oughta get it done.
We're limited to 2500 rpm in our enhanced class, so here in the early stages of planning, I'm thinking that cubic inches and high intake charge velocity are the goals to shoot for in the rebuild. Thinking low end torque, more than big hp numbers.
I don't mind having the block bored to accept bigger liners, though if the 160 cid kit is that much more money, we'll see.
How about stroking? Is there room to gain any meaningfull displacement there? I noticed that the factory stroke is the same throughout the engine family, so I have been assuming that it's pretty tight in there.
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Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2014 at 7:53pm
| 3-7/8" stroke is nearly all that fits without getting dangerously close to the camshaft with stock rods. I do know of someone that has used a 4" in a CE engine and all he could show me was a big hole in the side of the block. It could be possible to make things live with some custom rods with the parting angle offset. I have been running the naturally aspirated CE block for nearly 15 years without so much as a hiccup. I have put some thought into custom rods and a bit more than what I've already done, but for now any R&D is on hold. A mild improvement can be found in a reground camshaft. My experience with cam grinders is mixed to both ends of the scale. The CE head has a lot of room for improvement as well as fitting a larger carburetor to the manifold. If you were able to find a good running 149 or 160 it would be an economical drop-in. If you are going to do a full rebuild, the CE could be built for about the same cost with only one minor dis-advantage. What weigh class are you running? If you are serious about a well built CE I have a mate to the one I'm running that needs assembly, send me a PM |
Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2014 at 8:22pm
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I've seen PaulB"s tractors....not pulling but had the pleasure of looking them over on a visit awhile back...neat setups and look very reliable. ------------- Central PA Allis Express 1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 8:31pm
I have a 4 inch stroke in both a B and a C block. I put a hole in the block because welded rods. I went back to standard rods, two head gaskets and a 3/16 spacer between the two head gaskets. That is the B I can make rooster tails pulling a 12 foot spring tooth with 11.2 X 24's. I use it out in a field every once in a while. Haven't pulled for ten years. 
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PaulB wrote: