Found a B

Yes, I was told that ot was not uncommon to "modify" the mag to run with a battery and coil. Down side is if you want to restore to stock you will need another mag because the "modification" puts a hole in the case. According to my book your serial no makes it a '38

It's Definitely a 38, I have one that is 94something and it is a 38 too...

Restoring any tractor that is in a non running rough condition is a expensive challange. Don't expect to make any money restoring unless someone is paying you by the hour to do a restoration.  Collecting and restoring tractors is a hobby like bass fishing.

Here is a picture of it.  It has some interesting levers on the rear.

It was getting dark and I wondered if it was a 0 or something else.  It could well have been a C.  The tractor was advertised as a B, but maybe it is not.  What is the difference between an AC B and a C tractor?

Also, if that is a C it is a 1941...

Larry,

MOO - That is a C with the longer axles than a B and the dished rear hubs are for the C.  The B had flat rear hubs.  If the mag has been modified for use with a battery coil, it can be salvaged.  If the cap has hole drilled-in for the wires, it can be repaired. I have  repaired caps before.  You need to look further into the mag to see what else maybe needed.  Neither repairs or a replacement mag is not cheap.  -  AL

Not to criticize things, just to point things out, it looks like the front rims at least the one in the front corner, looks to be a car rim spare, not a B rim.  It's missing the generator, or may have had an alternator.  If the belt went around the crank, water pump and the generator, then that will have to be addressed to keep the water pump moving at least to get it running.  You could always put an old car alternator on it if you're not trying to restore it perfect.  You're missing the toolbox cover which is that little hole in front of the battery.  You're also missing the top and sides of the battery box.  Is the starter still on it?  As everyone else says, it is a C with a B wide front.  Not  a big deal but if you're going to restore it, you'll probably think about going back to original and changing that out.  I would say that if the rear tires are usable and the rear rims are not rotted out, and you can get it to crank over by hand, I would say $400-500 tops.  You might get it for less then that.   With it not running and it's condition, I would not go higher then that.  Either way, by the time you're done fixing it and making it a reliable runner, you probably will have too much invested to get your money back on it.  That being said, it's still a fun hobby and a fun way to learn about these old machines and once you get it up and running, you'll fall in love with it.  I have a B and I love that little thing.  In another year or two, my daughter will be old enough to give her a spin around the yard without me anymore.  You have definately found the right spot for help.   Good luck and keep us posted. 

ToddSin,

Good eye.  Yes, that is welding.  Do you know if water is behind that part of the block or oil and crankcase?  I thought it might be from a thrown rod or something (triangle shape weld).  Or I guess it could be from coolant freezing.

As the guys said, its not a B , its a C with a B front end. Busted block, not running, flat tires, mag with a hole in it... thats a $250 tractor.  A mag has point inside and a coil inside. If the $50. coil goes bad some will take a $15 car coil and mount on the outside and use the drive and point inside the old mag. Will cost something to fix that. It is fixable, but not restorable since it is not a  complete B, but basically a C with B parts.

I have to agree. It may be worth $250 as a parts tractor. To a person who parts ACs out for part of their living. Probably not that much.

Moo, just noticed you said the drawbar was semicircular with a lot of holes in it. That is the standard drawbar. I can clearly see the Athens drawbar in the picture, but it looks like I can see part of the standard drawbar also. I wonder how they got both on there. I don't think the Athens drawbar would lift if the other drawbar was bolted on. I think it would hit it. Anyone else know?

Could be. Changed from the tranny box back. Left the torque tube and all in front of it B. Maybe someone wanted a wide front two row tractor with hydraulics?

I don't know, but I'd say that ole' bugger from the Battery forward looks all B model to me. The jury is still out on the rear. Looks wider than a normal B from the pic angle, so it could be one of those B/C's folks come across once in a while. That guy looks savable to me. My B was in worst shape than that when I pulled it outta' the woods with a stuck engine. If you have the time and the dough, you can get er' whipped back into shape and put her to work. As for the Mag, the old "hang a automotive coil outside trick" was a commonly used technic in the field when an early tar taped coil failed. When I first dragged my B outta' the woods it had a coil mounted to the outside of the block. Someone drilled two holes right through the side of the block, tapped the holes and hung a coil. When I restored the Tractor, I just installed two fiber washers under two new bolts and plugged the holes. The modified Mags can be repaired. I've done quite a few for folks including my own....
Steve@B&B