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one wire alternator |
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Allis Fields
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Reedsburg,Wisc. Points: 332 |
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Posted: 12 Feb 2010 at 8:26pm |
I saw a sight that had one wire alternaters for sale But I can't remember who had them. I know I need low inpadence, low rpm start and a 5/8 inch wide belt pully.
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Denis in MI
Orange Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Norvell, MI Points: 832 |
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I don't know about low impedance but most one wires I have seen require engine is reved to 800 to start charging like this one
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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kinghunter
Silver Level Joined: 30 Jan 2010 Location: Kansas/Missouri Points: 408 |
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i run 1 wire alternaters off 80 model chevy vehicles and dont change belts , had to make brackets for them but they work will post pictures tomorrow. have them mounted to my wd's d17,d19,and both 190's
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DREAM
Orange Level Joined: 06 Jan 2010 Location: Elberton,GA Points: 1828 |
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Yeah, what Kinghunter said. That's what I would do. I don't know about the RPM requirements. What is your idle speed?
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kinghunter
Silver Level Joined: 30 Jan 2010 Location: Kansas/Missouri Points: 408 |
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my idle speed is low and on them chev alternaters there laying around everywhere i dont know anyone who cant say they dont know where a 80 model is broke down or where they could get parts. and the alternaters are cheap at the junk yards.
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Denis in MI
Orange Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Norvell, MI Points: 832 |
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I use the old delcos too but mine are rigged with two wires
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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firebrick43
Orange Level Joined: 10 Dec 2009 Location: Warren County Points: 592 |
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There were no OEMs that used 1 wire alternators. The 80s chevy alternators that you are using are 3 wire but can be rigged with a short jumper to the positive post and one long wire to the battery. I highly suggest actually hooking up all three wires. It works much better and the posibility of the alternator discharging the battery when stopped is eliminated.
Definitely don't do a 1 wire. They are more expensive, the regulators are more fragile, and they cut in at higher rpms so you can be discharging the battery when you are putting around. Also they don't put out the proper 14.7 volts to the battery with longer wires. A 3 wire sense and maintains 14.7volts constantly. Its very much worth the time and effort to hook up 2 more wires and a diode. |
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LouSWPA
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Clinton, Pa Points: 24345 |
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I just use a double pole switch for the ignition switch. one side is for the exciter wire for alternator, and other side is for ignition. One wire alt's are OK, but plane old GM alternators are dirt cheap at NAPA, and work well with my crude, but effective method.
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Gerald J.
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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14.7 is too much voltage for long battery life. 14.2 is best.
Gerald J. |
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dannyraddatz
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Plainfield, Ill Points: 848 |
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Here is some information off a web site follow the link at the bottom. Steve from B&B is a forum member and could help you on this project. This information should help you get started but give Steve a call for the final parts and help Steve@B&B B&B Custom Circuits Newton, NJ One-wire 10SI:The
Delco SI 1-wire has its uses. It is used on agricultural irrigation engines and
in marine applications. It has been used on automobiles and other vehicles
because it's easy to install and does not require a pigtail connector. That's
not to say the 3-wire is difficult to install. The pigtail connector is
available and will give access to the superior regulation provided by the
alternator's solid-state voltage regulator. The one-wire cannot
"sense" and adjust its output to provide a constant vehicle operating
voltage depending on the load demand. The one-wire is a good fit for an
irrigation engine that runs at one speed, has a constant load, and constant
demand. An external relay must be used with a 1-wire to operate an idiot light
in the dash. One-wire alternators also have "turn-on" issues because
it must self-excite using residual magnetism in the iron parts of the
alternator. If there is magnetism in the parts and the alternator is run up
fast enough then enough power is produced to excite the alternator and it will
ramp up the output. If it sits so long that no magnetism remains then that does
not happen. The one-wire sitting idle will drain a battery over time. The
1-wire is not the better choice for engines that may sit idle for long periods,
may be operated only at lower engine RPM's, use a dash light, engine RPM
routinely varies, or where blower motors, headlights and other load demands
come and go. My Ford tractor idles at less than 400-rpm and normally operates
just over 1500 so I would always have to be certain to rev up a self-excite,
1-wire alternator so it would begin to output regardless of how I will
otherwise operate the tractor. I don't mean to take anything away from the
one-wire alternator but the standard three-wire is a more sensible alternator
for most any application. One-wire alternators are also more expensive and not
as readily available. The
3-wire will always turn-on at the lowest possible RPM because it is excited by
the battery voltage via the ignition switch to the alternator excite terminal
right from the get-go. The 63-amp 10SI won't put out amps until 1,000+RPM but
it is turned on and ready once the switch is on. The 3-wire with a diode in the
excite wire will give you the lowest RPM turn-on possible and eliminate any
battery-draining leakage current during long down times. The 3-wire hook-up is
straight forward with one wire going no farther than the alternator itself. The
10SI alternator wire harness with the DA-plug makes it a snap to wire up the
alternator. The harness also makes it simple to keep the dash light in the
circuit. No additional resistor is required when using the diode. The 63-amp
10SI begins charging at a lower RPM than any other size (amperage) 10SI, even
the lower amp 10SI's. Big plus when using the diode is that it allows you to
continue using an OEM on/off key-switch. You can use the standard 10SI pig tail
if you have an off/on/start/run ignition switch so you can isolate the
alternator from the battery by connecting the alternator to the accessory
terminal. Belts, pulleys, and brackets: Modern
belts do not fit older vehicles so the pulley that comes with a standard 10SI
will not match many early model vehicles and engines. Vintage autos likely have
at least a 1/2" wide crank and water pump pulleys and agricultural or
industrial engines may have 5/8" or larger pulleys. To get the 12-volt
conversion right means you need to measure the pulley on the crank or water
pump and install the proper wide-belt pulley on the alternator. My pulleys are
small diameter so to get that alternator up to speed at lower engine RPM. Don't
measure the existing v-belt because no telling how that type and size belt came
to be on your engine; measure the pulley. There is a lot to v-belts and running
the improper belt can be no end to problems and premature failure. You also pay
for a belt/pulley mismatch in horsepower (mileage). You can find most vehicles'
belt size on this parts
interface look-up. Note: after completing the type, make, model, year
selection, keep clicking on the part number until you get a pop-up Product
Detail which shows Top Width (In.). http://www.kansasselectproducts.com/12V%20Conversion%20Guide.htm Edited by dannyraddatz - 13 Feb 2010 at 6:56am |
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Danny Raddatz
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Dave A
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Almond Wisconsi Points: 855 |
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I use the one wire alternaters here at work, on the fork lifts. It in a easy conversion, and I don't have to work with old school voltage regs. Have used the the two wire Delco with no problems. I like them on equipment that sits for a while, then is used. The one wire units have a small currant draw and over time the batteries wil go dead. Also make sure it is a Delco there are some off brands that look like Delco's. But like to give problems
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Play the game for more than you can afford to lose... only then will you learn the game.
Winston Churchill |
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Don(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862 |
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There is a link to the best wiring setup I have seen for a 12 volt with a alt, It's from Bryan Smith's web site. He has lots of good INFO on there.
Thanks Bryan.
Here is the INFO he has on his site.
Don
Edited by Don(MO) - 13 Feb 2010 at 7:14am |
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Don(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862 |
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Hey Danny did you make your top bracket?
Don
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11885 |
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Couldn't say any better myself. Good article. Hits right on what I've been telling our AC family here for the past 6-7 years. Three wire units are the way to fly for Tractors, and low rpm applications. Leave the 1 wire units to automotive applications where 1200-1400 rpm's to excite the unit is not an issue... Thanks Dan the man for the referral also! If I can help anyone out with a wiring system or components, just drop me an e-mail or give me a call. Be glad to help you out!
Steve@B&B Custom Circuits (973) 632-5596 |
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Max(ia)
Orange Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: Polk County,Ia Points: 536 |
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Both my WC and D15 II have one wire units. Both have to be revved up in order to get them to charge. Both will drain the battery over time so the WC has a pull switch to cut the circuit, D15 has a knife switch on the battery terminal. Not my conversions. Not a very good setup as far as I'm concerned...
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Don(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862 |
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Hey Steve, If there was a relay wired up with the power for the one wire Alt that was powered up by the key switch and the main power for the Alt ran from the AMP gage or volt gage through the relay will that stop the battery from draining down?
Just thinking again ( I know that's how I get in trouble) I don't think a lot of a one wire units.
Don
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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boscoe
Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165 |
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Tha ks SDteve and Danny for good info if I have any issues with my switch I be callin ya, I recently was in fleet farm and bought a single wire delco because they said that was the one to replace my 3 wire that didnt work anymore, knowingn what I do now, UF-DA what a mistake. It was 34.95 I dont think they will let me return it, bur I will ask.
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fixer1958
Orange Level Joined: 13 Feb 2010 Location: kansas Points: 2434 |
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The first alternator I used was a old AC Delco (35 amp) and put a self exciting regulator in for $40 15 years ago. The only problem I had with that one was I had to run it at full throttle to kick it in. It finally bit the dust.
I found a 1 wire alternator at Napa for $40. Charging kicks in as soon as I start it,
Much better now.
Same as the ones on the web for #150+.
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boscoe
Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165 |
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Currently I have a 1 wire 63A delco, 1 wire from alt going to main power solenoid ,one wire from solenoid going to volt gauge.
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boscoe
Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165 |
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What abour volt meter can I run from alt to volt meter to switch?
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11885 |
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Absolutely. In my 12V conversion systems, I use only a Voltmeter. I use the Voltmeter as a junction from the Alternator. The key switch is wired to the Voltmeter. This way, the key switch controls all power on board the Tractor, and there will be no parasitic draw. When the key switch is off, everything is off. When the key is turned to the ON position, it powers up everything on board the Tractor. Simple and effective!
Steve@B&B |
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pineyjd
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Southern NJ Points: 100 |
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Did not know about drain on battery, my D10/I40 has a chevy 1 wire alt on it & battery is always going dead when it sits without trickle charger
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boscoe
Silver Level Joined: 23 Jan 2010 Location: ND Points: 165 |
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Steve and others, Alternator to volt meter, voltmeter to switch, switch to coil, don't I need a wire to go to solenoid to charge battery?
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Burgie
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Scottsburg, IN Points: 1192 |
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I`m going to put one on the WC Puller.Put a switch on it so it won`t charge when pulling or when parked.The pulley on the one from Steiner`s will charge at a lower rpm.
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"Burgie"
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11885 |
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The Battery will get its power through the Ignition switch providing you run your Battery feed to the Ignition switch from the starter motor. This is how I designed my 12V conversion systems, so the Ignition switch controls all power on board the Tractor so there is no parasitic draw on the system. The Ignition switch takes the Battery out of the loop when the switch is OFF.
Steve@B&B |
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Dave(inMA)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Grafton, MA Points: 2398 |
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My D14 has a one-wire alt on it with the original ammeter. Not sure how it's wired, but I've never noticed that the battery is drained or weak, even though it's mostly used for clearing snow. I do have to run the rpms up once after I start it to get the alt to work, but then it's fine on its own.
Steve - do you mean that the line from the alt runs to the post on the starter so that power runs back through the ignition switch to the battery when switch is in the "run" position?
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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