Here is some information off a web site follow the link at the bottom. Steve from B&B is a forum member and could help you on this project. This information should help you get started but give Steve a call for the final parts and help Steve@B&B B&B Custom Circuits Newton, NJ

The Delco SI 1-wire has its uses. It is used on agricultural irrigation engines and in marine applications. It has been used on automobiles and other vehicles because it's easy to install and does not require a pigtail connector. That's not to say the 3-wire is difficult to install. The pigtail connector is available and will give access to the superior regulation provided by the alternator's solid-state voltage regulator. The one-wire cannot "sense" and adjust its output to provide a constant vehicle operating voltage depending on the load demand. The one-wire is a good fit for an irrigation engine that runs at one speed, has a constant load, and constant demand. An external relay must be used with a 1-wire to operate an idiot light in the dash. One-wire alternators also have "turn-on" issues because it must self-excite using residual magnetism in the iron parts of the alternator. If there is magnetism in the parts and the alternator is run up fast enough then enough power is produced to excite the alternator and it will ramp up the output. If it sits so long that no magnetism remains then that does not happen. The one-wire sitting idle will drain a battery over time. The 1-wire is not the better choice for engines that may sit idle for long periods, may be operated only at lower engine RPM's, use a dash light, engine RPM routinely varies, or where blower motors, headlights and other load demands come and go. My Ford tractor idles at less than 400-rpm and normally operates just over 1500 so I would always have to be certain to rev up a self-excite, 1-wire alternator so it would begin to output regardless of how I will otherwise operate the tractor. I don't mean to take anything away from the one-wire alternator but the standard three-wire is a more sensible alternator for most any application. One-wire alternators are also more expensive and not as readily available.

The 3-wire will always turn-on at the lowest possible RPM because it is excited by the battery voltage via the ignition switch to the alternator excite terminal right from the get-go. The 63-amp 10SI won't put out amps until 1,000+RPM but it is turned on and ready once the switch is on. The 3-wire with a diode in the excite wire will give you the lowest RPM turn-on possible and eliminate any battery-draining leakage current during long down times. The 3-wire hook-up is straight forward with one wire going no farther than the alternator itself. The 10SI alternator wire harness with the DA-plug makes it a snap to wire up the alternator. The harness also makes it simple to keep the dash light in the circuit. No additional resistor is required when using the diode. The 63-amp 10SI begins charging at a lower RPM than any other size (amperage) 10SI, even the lower amp 10SI's. Big plus when using the diode is that it allows you to continue using an OEM on/off key-switch. You can use the standard 10SI pig tail if you have an off/on/start/run ignition switch so you can isolate the alternator from the battery by connecting the alternator to the accessory terminal.

Belts, pulleys, and brackets:

Modern belts do not fit older vehicles so the pulley that comes with a standard 10SI will not match many early model vehicles and engines. Vintage autos likely have at least a 1/2" wide crank and water pump pulleys and agricultural or industrial engines may have 5/8" or larger pulleys. To get the 12-volt conversion right means you need to measure the pulley on the crank or water pump and install the proper wide-belt pulley on the alternator. My pulleys are small diameter so to get that alternator up to speed at lower engine RPM. Don't measure the existing v-belt because no telling how that type and size belt came to be on your engine; measure the pulley. There is a lot to v-belts and running the improper belt can be no end to problems and premature failure. You also pay for a belt/pulley mismatch in horsepower (mileage). You can find most vehicles' belt size on this http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3598&go=Interference - parts interface look-up. Note: after completing the type, make, model, year selection, keep clicking on the part number until you get a pop-up Product Detail which shows Top Width (In.).

I list brackets for most applications but if you have something else again then let me know what and why and see if I can fix you up. Compare fit and function to your project and you will see this 12-volt alternator conversion thing isn't going to be such a big deal. My products are heavy-duty, high-quality, and nearly all of it is made in the USA. You need a good, hard mount or the belt will slip under load so you won't get a good charge and you will wear and throw belts.

http://www.kansasselectproducts.com/12V%20Conversion%20Guide.htm - http://www.kansasselectproducts.com/12V%20Conversion%20Guide.htm