wd liners

You would buy them from Darton, LA Sleve or Power Bore. All are companies that make spun ductile or cast iron sleves. Figure up what you want for dimensions and they'll make anything you want.

The longer the sleve, the less can be made from the blank casting so the more expensive they get. Ductile is better (stronger and longer wearing) than soft grey iron. I'd bet you're looking in the neighborhood of $125 or more per sleve to buy them.

Putting them in a block is time consumeing. Then finish boreing and honeing. It's a safe bet to say $1000 or well more for sleves and machine work when done for a finished block.

I usually make them from existing sleves from another engine. I turn the outside diameters to what I want, bore the block and then bore the inside and hone to finish. I'm tight when it comes to the antique tractors and used sleves from a diesel are hard, full of nickel, long wearing and hard on boreing bar bits. Your machinist will love boreing them for sure.

Don't run to much press fit on the bottom counterbore or it'll split the block. I alwayse put the sleves in with a bit of a bonding agent like sleve retainer on the bottom counterbore and I put a little block filler in. Grout based fillers like Hard Block and the Moroso stuff are alright but are not water tight as they don't need to be. They are hard on tooling if machining the sleves out in the future. I like to use a fiber product from Competition Products called Roc Blok. It's not hard on tooling and is water tight and probablu a bit lighter than the grout based fillers.

Edited by wi50 - 10 Apr 2013 at 9:34pm

mlpankey wrote: You can pretty much bore with boring bar centered on original bore center just need to shim bar to move toward left intake side away from cam.

How's that work Mitch, is it a Tn Vols thing? I've been around machine tools for over 40 years and if I ever shimmed a boring bar, the bore would get bigger not move sideways

Paws??? I believe those  are for cats and dogs Mitch. Boring bars I used over the years are either clamped in a tool holder on a lathe or clamped in a boring head and have 1 insert or cutting tool. You don't shim a boring bar to move the hole. You move your part in relation to the centerline of the sweep of the bar.
 Moving the bore sideways or for and aft has nothing to do with anything other than the relationship of the bore center to the original centerline. Size only matters because you can not bore a hole smaller than it was originally.
 I have bored holes from 3/8 of an inch to over 40 inches and the only time I shimmed a boring bar was if it wasn't on the centerline of the part in the holder I was using
 You obviously have NO IDEA about doing machine work no matter what MBUCHARD thinks.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 25 Apr 2013 at 8:10pm

mlpankey wrote: well i am talking about a van norman or kwik way  boring bar like this one pictured that have been around in machine shops I am going to guess since 1950 but I am not a machining historian so I could be wrong in the date. you can see a kwik way boring bar in this picture if you now what one looks like hint its not the mill or red  tool box or  hoist ,its right in front of the sign about leaving work unpaid for  .URL=http://s738.photobucket.com/user/pankeyc/media/tractor%20parts/pics126.jpg.html][/URL]

here it is set up and cutting the liners .

CTuckerNWIL wrote: It doesn't matter what kind of machine you use, to move the bore in a block, you have to either move the head or move the part. If you have to shim something, maybe it needed left in the 50's.

I believe the word you are searching for is PAWL, Pank .

there is some confusion of boring bars. boring bars or machines in engine shops utilize three expanding fingers to center bore to existing hole.many times by shimming one or two of the fingers we can reposition new hole to clear any wear marks, or to provide additional clearance in this case.

Those are the same pictures the keyboard commando has been posting since he was looking for someone to stroke a crank and thanking all those he hired to do the machine work.

Do you pay double rate to the shops if they let you take pictures Jealous Mitch?

Did Ray give you that advise about machine work, or does he just order your parts?