WD45 battery ground bolt

I went through the Dick L school of broken bolt removal and it didn't call for an easyout. Use a center punch and try to start a hole dead center and drill perfectly straight with a small bit and graduate larger as needed. Don't be in a hurry. Clean the threads with a tap and a seal pic. If it's a blind hole mark the bit so you don't go to deep. remove anything that will hinder keeping the drill square to your work. Be patient and get er dunn. If ya leave it it'll drive ya crazy.

Believe me, I'm wishing like hell I never fell for the easyout -- too good to be true.  The sad thing is, the old bolt drilled pretty easily with a good bit. Think there's a snowball's chance I can drill it with the easyout embedded for an extra skill test?  I weigh 120 pounds.  I think I'm going to ask my brawny friend who's an excellent metal man.  You're completely right -- if I leave it (which is what everyone else has done)  it will drive me crazy.  I thought about it all day today...  that's when I knew I should turn to the forum.  Thank you for your advice.  Where's Dick L when I need him?

Very clever idea.  I'll run it past my welder pal.  I have to take some work to him this week and I'll bet I can talk him into having a look.  I'm sure any other sane person would just connect the ground to the opposite bolt and forget about it but this is driving me nuts.  I really appreciate the comments.  You guys are the best.

if you can drill a hole in a piece of thin flat strap weld it to the easy out  you then have a handle to turn i do this on broke bolts also it puts heat in the bolt and expands it so let it cool before you try to remove it

Here's the miserable part...  The broken bolt and the sheared, embedded easy out are flush with the frame of the tractor.  I suppose if my welder places a washer center over the offending bolt end, he'll have a little to weld to but not much.  I hope he can get decent contact.  Welding the nut is much more straightforward.  I like this plan as it stands a chance of preserving the threads.

DonDittmar wrote: A carbide burr in a die grinder will eat a tap/easy out. If your handy with the gas axe you can blow out the broken easy out with the torch

Right here is your answer in my opinion, the carbide burr that is. We have done it this way for years....it works. Then you can bolt a drill guide on with the proper sized bushing and drill out the broken bolt.

I appreciate the advice.  I had my welder take a look at it who agreed that a carbide bit may be the best option.  He then spoke with the machinists 2 doors down from him who would prefer to clamp it down in their shop vs. doing this freehand.  That means I'd have to pull the top of the gearbox as the battery ground is contained within, that also would entail unbolting the steering shaft and removing the gearshift.  This seems a little involved.  Do you you guys freehand it with the carbide bit?  Remember, it has that embedded easyout (which I will never, ever attempt again).

I would weld the nut on,  do the grinder deal, or reattach the ground to a different spot and find a new welder! Or better yet learn to weld because you will need to weld again. Just my thoughts.

I have removed many broken bolts/studs by welding directly on offending culprit and slowly buiding up the height untill I can get a vise grip on it and turn it out.This requires many arcs/puddles and sl*g chipping to build it up but the constant chippng and heating seem to aid in loosening.Many offenders are broke about a thread below flush but I have won every battle.Some required a "start over" after twisting off the "build up" but that's just the way it goes. I don't seem to be able to weld a little nut on the inside to anything....the sl*g gets me every time.( No wire welder around here)

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 07 Sep 2012 at 11:29pm

WTF!! Done it again!

Steve, just testing to see if sl*g is doing it from my computer as well.

There's your answer Steve. For some reason this program things there is something wrong with the word sl ag.

I have a set of left hand drill bits and haven't had much luck. Although I have had the good  fortune  to not have to use them often.

Charlie, you just gotta stand on the back side of the grinder for those lefties.  LOL  

Edited by Ted J - 09 Sep 2012 at 7:18am

dannyraddatz wrote: I am a lefty, How could that drill bit going opposite not work on removing that bolt, righty tighty, lefty loosey? one of my friends swore by this for getting broken of manifold studs out of a block.

Because, usually the "stick" of the rust is stronger than the bite of the drill bit.