D14 ignition question

It sounds like you have an external resistor wired in to the coil and you should have a line from the solenoid to the coil that supplies full voltage only when starting. If you have this set-up, I would replace the coil and external resistor with a coil that has the proper resistance built in and wire the key switch direct to the coil.
 

I shouldn't give advice without looking at a schematic, but it is possible for the coil to get its cranking voltage from the solenoid with an extra wire from the solenoid to the coil. Like a GM vehicle with a Delco-Remy starter.

May have low voltage in battery . Takes power away when cranking.

Put a jumper wire from the hot side of the solenoid to the coil.  That will tell you where the problem is.  Should be two wires from the switch, one marked ign and one for start.  Ign should be hot in both positions.

Ctucker,  there are only 3 posts on the factory switch.  BAT, IGN, and SOL.  Ing and Sol are never hot at the same time.   The other switch I'm trying to use has some other lugs but they all seem to be dead other than the 3 I've identified to use. 

the early D14 had an OFF-ON switch and a push button with a 6 volt battery. The later model is the same as a D15 with a 12 volt battery and an acess, off, ign, and start position on the switch There should be power from the ignition terminal to the coil in both run and start positions, or else you have to be "lucky" for it to start. Bob

If anyone does figure it out please let me know.  All I can figure is I have a bad factory switch and the other one I have is not suitable for the job.  I mentioned running a wire from the start side of the solenoid to the coil but that won't work because, without a  diode in the circuit, the coil voltage  be trying to turn the starter.    I could switch it over to a push button I guess.  I'm trying to do this repair with stuff I have around without having to spend any money on it right now.   I'm not wired to an accessory lug at least not on the factory switch because it is labeled BAT, IGN, SOL.   The other switch I have was stolen from a junked out lawn tractor.  There is no reason for it to have an accessory position.

Thanks for everyone's help with the switch problem.  This morning I messed with the original switch some more and got it to where it had continuity on both the ING and SOL terminals when the key is turned all the way to start.  I guess it either had corroded inside or something.  It's working for now and now I know the wiring is correct also.  Looks like time for another switch soon.

As Steve said - a new switch is in order. Most, if not all, lawn tractors have magneto ignition so the run position may not have any power. When you turn it to the off position it grounds the magneto to kill the engine.

All Electronics and Antique Electronic Supply carry DeoxIT, one of the best contact cleaners.

Gerald J.

The problem with the Ignition switch is its to light for the load that runs through it. Like in any mass produced vehicle, its the best price from the vendors who build the system to AC specs. The switch was borderline. As time & the series of Tractors progressed and accessory circuitry was added to the Tractors, the switch was never upgraded. The loads got heavier, and the switch had more circuitry connected to it. In the wiring industry, we call that "stacking". More resistance, more heat. Away goes the wiring and the switch. Thats why you find a lot of cobbled wires behind the dash of the "D" series Tractors. We offer a heavy duty high amp Igntion switch with a plug for the "D" series Tractors to eliminate the stacking and to handle any load put through the system. Its offered as an option on our "D" series wiring systems, and its an excellent upgrade. Instead of just 4 terminals like the OEM one has, ours has 10 functional terminals, and one grounding terminal. Fits right in the dash to replace the OEM unit. If interested, drop us a line... The switch and plug kit with connectors runs $55. bucks.  HTH