Freon (R12) Substitute?

My neighbor has a coule of systems (one combine and one tractor) that are still R 12.  We are outa rat holed R 12.

R134 will work but you have to be careful about how much you put in it. The heat tranfer is not the same as R12 because the condensers aren't as big on a R12 system versus a R134.

Use  R134a  if you know how much system holds  80% charge is usually what you put in empty system. don't forget to add oil . I use ester 100.

there was a product out there called "freze" 12 that was compatible with the R12

freeze twelve is what i use , you can get it from ap air out of iowa i believe, i only use it if it is a top off if system is empty change over to 134a. most of my customers always want to do it the cheap way and freeze twelve is the quickest cheapest way to top off and works really well. my opinion.

R-134a doesnt have the cooling capability that R-12 did, get some freeze 12 in a can, and keep it going that way if you are able to get some. IMHO.

My brother has 2 30lb bottles of virgin R12. He keeps it for older cars.

We converted over to Freeze 12 and it works good.  Our mechanic buys in it bulk from somewhere.  He works on older cars too, so probably needs it for them.  

I have 10 30 lb. tanks of virgin R12 left from my business. I will sell at $12 per pound in 30 lb. tanks. I also have R502 and R500. I am located in eastern Iowa. Let me know if you are interested.




Edited by silkwood - 11 Apr 2011 at 8:24pm

I've been having a problem with the F2, it keeps kicking the compressor on and off more often than should.  took out the clutch this year.  neighbor said it was because the condenser was too small for 134 and builds too much pressure.  thought about putting a second condenser in the compartment but haven't' looked that closely to see if there's room. 

8050 works good on 134 however.

A restriction in the system would cause low pressures on each side. Do you have a gauge set to know what's going on? If there is a high pressure cut out switch thats stopping the compressor I'd be looking at over charge or not enough airflow through the condenser. 80% is the rule of thumb. If the R-12 charge is 1.0lbs, then typically the 134 charge will be .8lbs. When retrofits were common on the automotive side, I'd usually start out with 50% of the R-12 weight and add a little at a time until the system worked well.

I'd clean it again and verify that the engine fan belt does not slip, or in the case of a clutch fan make sure it doesn't freewheel too much. Once you've determined airflow through the condenser is not the problem, I'd adress charge level. Wht type of expansion valve does it have? Fixed orifice or thermal expansion valve? A thermal expansion valve stuck open will run the pressures up. Air in the system from not pulling a deep enough vacuum or not purging the charging hose (charging with 1lb cans) also causes higher than normal pressures/poor cooling.

Edited by Brian Jasper co. Ia - 12 Apr 2011 at 7:09pm

Mack, I said condensor, i meant evaporator.  we take the pressure washer inside the cab every other year and when we do we take the heater core out to get a better shot at the evaporator.  we even replace the temp sensor.  i would bet it's overcharged or has air.  thanks again.