Pulling WD45 engine help

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   I've read a few posts about removing the engine to replace the dry clutch.  I think got most of it pounded in my head (Maybe?)    Does it make a difference if one has a narrow front or wide font tractor? I did not find that covered in what I had read.
  I'm not removing the side channels.  I have a wide front.   Your help would be much appreciated.  

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bigstone Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 15 Feb 2016 Location: minnesota Points: 8	Post Options Post Reply Quote bigstone Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Pulling WD45 engine help Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 10:40am
	I've read a few posts about removing the engine to replace the dry clutch. I think got most of it pounded in my head (Maybe?) Does it make a difference if one has a narrow front or wide font tractor? I did not find that covered in what I had read. I'm not removing the side channels. I have a wide front. Your help would be much appreciated.

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Allis dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3028	Post Options Post Reply Quote Allis dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 12:54pm
	Hello bigstone. The process is the same for a wide or narrow front. The wide is a little more difficult becasue you can't remove the rear angle iron that supports the front axle, but it's no problem. The oil pan just scrapes that support a little.

bigstone Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 15 Feb 2016 Location: minnesota Points: 8	Post Options Post Reply Quote bigstone Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 1:16pm
	Thanks for that reply. I just removed the radiator. And I thought I had the hand crank rod figured out. No I don't... Do people just cut the hand crank rod off or is there another secrete?

plummerscarin Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3870	Post Options Post Reply Quote plummerscarin Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 1:37pm
	I could be wrong, but I thought if you were to remove the four bolts per side that secure the steering box to the frame, slide it forward and reinstall two bolts in the rear holes in the steering box to the front holes of the frame it would provide clearance for engine removal. May be easier said than done.

SteveM C/IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8565	Post Options Post Reply Quote SteveM C/IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 4:48pm
	Remove bracket bolt guiding hand crank shaft. Pull full fwd and grip with vice grip. You can remove steering shaft support bolt to gain a little more wiggle room. When pulling engine fwd you have to travel straight far enough to get off of clutch shaft then lop engine to side (I don't remember which) to get by steering shaft. It's just as tricky getting back in and aligned to clutch shaft but it's possible. Experience is your teacher. Trying to remove frame bolts will likely twist some off. GR 2 bolts. Seems like there is a roll pin in hand crank shaft by bracket that needs removed to be able to compress spring. Been awhile! Edited by SteveM C/IL - 11 Jul 2025 at 4:53pm

bigstone Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 15 Feb 2016 Location: minnesota Points: 8	Post Options Post Reply Quote bigstone Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 hours 38 minutes ago at 6:25am
	Thanks guys. Other than getting everything loose that needs to be (I think) I'm ready to give it a go. I also have the rail bolts loose so I can remove the clutch pedal side rail off if needed. I'm doing this myself. What would you do?

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21709	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 hours 3 minutes ago at 8:00am
	You need a good (and safe) way to lift the engine up and out of the chassis. A piece of angle iron works best. A 2" x 2" by 1/8" thick around 16 to 18 inch long angle iron will fit. Remove the four nuts that hold the valve cover on. Drill 4 holes in your angle iron on one side to slide down over these valve cover studs. Keep your holes close to the "bend" of the angle iron, not out on the edge. Reinstall the nuts so they are more than 50% threaded on the studs. Now attach a lifting chain to the vertical part of the angle iron making your balance point an inch or so towards the flywheel as it is the heavy end. Maybe make several chain attach holes so you can adjust things if needed. My 24 inch long chain attaches to just rear of the front stud and just ahead of the rear stud in a loop on the vertical part of the angle iron. Place the chain to the inside to get close to centering over the valve cover studs. It doesn't take a heavy chain to do this. If a 3/8" bolt will just slide thru a chain link it is heavy enough. Have fun and don't get hurt.

HudCo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3862	Post Options Post Reply Quote HudCo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 1 hour 58 minutes ago at 11:05pm
	it will come out with out taking the frame apart you will need to undo the steering shaft at the u joint and twist the front ofthe engine over a little so the backk of the block will clear the frame rails i just did this with a wc last week