Farm Equipment - Pulling WD45 engine help

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Pulling WD45 engine help

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=207435
Printed Date: 18 Jul 2025 at 4:10am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Pulling WD45 engine help

Posted By: bigstone
Subject: Pulling WD45 engine help
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 10:40am

I've read a few posts about removing the engine to replace the dry clutch. I think got most of it pounded in my head (Maybe?) Does it make a difference if one has a narrow front or wide font tractor? I did not find that covered in what I had read.

I'm not removing the side channels. I have a wide front. Your help would be much appreciated.

Replies:

Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 12:54pm

Hello bigstone.
The process is the same for a wide or narrow front. The wide is a little more difficult becasue you can't remove the rear angle iron that supports the front axle, but it's no problem. The oil pan just scrapes that support a little.

Posted By: bigstone
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 1:16pm

Thanks for that reply. I just removed the radiator. And I thought I had the hand crank rod figured out. No I don't... Do people just cut the hand crank rod off or is there another secrete?

Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 1:37pm

I could be wrong, but I thought if you were to remove the four bolts per side that secure the steering box to the frame, slide it forward and reinstall two bolts in the rear holes in the steering box to the front holes of the frame it would provide clearance for engine removal. May be easier said than done.

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2025 at 4:48pm

Remove bracket bolt guiding hand crank shaft. Pull full fwd and grip with vice grip. You can remove steering shaft support bolt to gain a little more wiggle room. When pulling engine fwd you have to travel straight far enough to get off of clutch shaft then lop engine to side (I don't remember which) to get by steering shaft. It's just as tricky getting back in and aligned to clutch shaft but it's possible. Experience is your teacher. Trying to remove frame bolts will likely twist some off. GR 2 bolts. Seems like there is a roll pin in hand crank shaft by bracket that needs removed to be able to compress spring. Been awhile!

Posted By: bigstone
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2025 at 6:25am

Thanks guys.

Other than getting everything loose that needs to be (I think) I'm ready to give it a go. I also have the rail bolts loose so I can remove the clutch pedal side rail off if needed. I'm doing this myself. What would you do?

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2025 at 8:00am

You need a good (and safe) way to lift the engine up and out of the chassis. A piece of angle iron works best. A 2" x 2" by 1/8" thick around 16 to 18 inch long angle iron will fit. Remove the four nuts that hold the valve cover on. Drill 4 holes in your angle iron on one side to slide down over these valve cover studs. Keep your holes close to the "bend" of the angle iron, not out on the edge. Reinstall the nuts so they are more than 50% threaded on the studs. Now attach a lifting chain to the vertical part of the angle iron making your balance point an inch or so towards the flywheel as it is the heavy end. Maybe make several chain attach holes so you can adjust things if needed. My 24 inch long chain attaches to just rear of the front stud and just ahead of the rear stud in a loop on the vertical part of the angle iron. Place the chain to the inside to get close to centering over the valve cover studs. It doesn't take a heavy chain to do this. If a 3/8" bolt will just slide thru a chain link it is heavy enough. Have fun and don't get hurt.

Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2025 at 11:05pm

it will come out with out taking the frame apart you will need to undo the steering shaft at the u joint and twist the front ofthe engine over a little so the backk of the block will clear the frame rails i just did this with a wc last week

Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2025 at 7:26am

DO like Dr said. A cheery picker or overhead hoist works best so you can wiggle and go slow. One of these levelers work great so you can tip it forward and back a little

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html" rel="nofollow - www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-load-leveler-60659.html

Posted By: bigstone
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2025 at 7:55am

I'm sure getting a lot of good advice here. Much thanks to all.

I do have a cherry picker and will look for a leveler. Planning on making the angle iron bracket like Dr. Allis said. hopefully today.

Right now I'm stuck on splitting the universal joint. I have 1 pin removed (one closest to the front end and the other one is buggered up real bad. I should be able to separate them?? May need a bigger hammer.

Please continue to give me hope!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2025 at 3:36pm

Remove TOP pin. Turn the steering wheel clockwise three or four turns while pulling up. Leave U-joint alone.

Posted By: Lon(MN)
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2025 at 6:17am

The engine will come out with the steering shaft in place. You will need a longer pry bar and more paint will be scratched.

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