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D-10 PTO Clutch |
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lonewolf247 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jan 2022 Location: La Points: 3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: Yesterday at 6:29pm |
I have an Allis Chalmers D-10 Series III with a bad leak on the PTO clutch lever where it goes into the PTO Housing.
Anyone, have a diagram or advice on how to repair it. Thanks in advance. |
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Charlie175 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shenandoah, VA Points: 6368 |
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Go to section 130 Power Takeoff.
It shows a simple O-Ring for the oil seal. I'll have to dig my book out to find how to replace
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21416 |
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I've never worked on one of those, but it looks to me like the whole PTO housing would have to be removed to access a snap ring in the inside so you can remove the PTO hand lever. Then replace the Oring shaft seal like a PTO lever on a D-14-15-17-19.
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lonewolf247 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jan 2022 Location: La Points: 3 |
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Yes that’s what I’m trying to determine, if I need to remove the entire pto housing or not? I’m guessing I do. I’m used to removing the housing on the Allis Model B, but this seems a bit more involved. Just wanted to make sure when I remove it, that I can get it back together after without issues.
Edited by lonewolf247 - 14 hours 18 minutes ago at 8:54am |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21416 |
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If the PTO lever is welded to the end of the shaft, you'll have to remove the PTO housing.
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Charlie175 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shenandoah, VA Points: 6368 |
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yes you have to remove the PTO housing to get to the shaft.
I'd also replace the PTO shaft oil seal while you have it off.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
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