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7010 Clutch Cable Adjustment

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calico190xt68 View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jan 2017
Location: Frankton, IN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7010 Clutch Cable Adjustment
    Posted: 4 hours 3 minutes ago at 6:56am
I have been having some trouble shifting 1 through 4 gears.  I have a 16 speed not a 20 speed Power Director.  I had the bolt break that holds the upper cable eyebolt to the clutch pedal.  I had to push the pedal all the way to the floor and then it would shift without grinding gears.  After doing this repeatedly though, I think this is what broke the bolt holding the clutch cable to the pedal.  I took off the side panels and have access to replace the bolt.  I put a test bolt into place before replacing everything and decided to screw in the upper eyebolt thinking that might improve shifting.  Did a test shift and it won't go into gear now without grinding.  I screwed it out but I don't have many threads left to make it long enough to make it shift without grinding.  My guess is that the eyebolt screw was bent, before it broke and was allowing the shifting to happen.  Now that I have a straight bolt, it doesn't have the necessary play but only a guess.

I read the manual and it only has one sentence about adjusting the cable in an obscure place.  It shows doing that on the lower cable clamp and mentions a clearance of .01 inches - .03 inches.  That's not very much clearance.  I am going to play around with the lower cable clamp and see if I can get anything to change.  Doesn't mention adjusting either the upper or the lower eyebolt lengths which surprised me.  However, the adjustment I made on the upper eyebolt didn't change anything.  Nothing has changed on this over the years other than this bolt breaking as far as I know.  Is it possible that the cable is bad?  How common is that?  I can remove both ends of the cable and see if it moves back and forth freely to see if the cable is sticking as another test.

Anyone have experience adjusting the clutch pedal?  Any help is appreciated.

Here is the page I found.  Is there a reference somewhere else?




80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 50 minutes ago at 7:09am
Ignore the books numbers. Make it ZERO clearance. Bolt must be grade 8 with a lock nut !!   Spray WD40 all over that area so things move freely !! But, first of all, REPLACE the two bushings on the fork pivot. The inside one is broken.  Then WD40 all over and down inside your shift lever T-handle.
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AC7060IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 24 minutes ago at 8:35am
Replace your 7010’s “original stretched” clutch cable with a new one from Bunker Hill Cable. Here’s their weblink.
https://bunkerhillcables.com/clutch-pedal-cable-replaces-allis-chalmers-70269446/

These 45+ year old AC clutch cables will stretch resulting in poor shifting / gear grinding. Little by little it becomes more pronounced, then an engine shutoff is only way to not grind gears for shift. If continued, then someday the cable completely snaps apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 51 minutes ago at 9:08am
If you still have an original cable, you won't believe how much easier the pedal will push with a new cable.
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calico190xt68 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calico190xt68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 43 minutes ago at 9:16am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Ignore the books numbers. Make it ZERO clearance. Bolt must be grade 8 with a lock nut !!   Spray WD40 all over that area so things move freely !! But, first of all, REPLACE the two bushings on the fork pivot. The inside one is broken.  Then WD40 all over and down inside your shift lever T-handle.


I did use a grade 8 with a lock nut to get the tractor out of the field.  I have to shift it while it is off to get it into gear.  I looked and I see zero clearance right now.  

So, it must be the bushings in the fork pivot?  

Turns out I do have a fairly new cable.  It has an agco part number tag on it which means it is new.  My son said it got replaced over a year ago while at an agco dealer who was fixing the steering.  I am guessing that replacement wasn't done correctly or there is another issue.  

Where exactly are the shift fork bushings?  I looked up "fork" in Agco parts book and I don't see any bushings around the shift forks in the diagram. 




80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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