I have been having some trouble shifting 1 through 4 gears.  I have a 16 speed not a 20 speed Power Director.  I had the bolt break that holds the upper cable eyebolt to the clutch pedal.  I had to push the pedal all the way to the floor and then it would shift without grinding gears.  After doing this repeatedly though, I think this is what broke the bolt holding the clutch cable to the pedal.  I took off the side panels and have access to replace the bolt.  I put a test bolt into place before replacing everything and decided to screw in the upper eyebolt thinking that might improve shifting.  Did a test shift and it won't go into gear now without grinding.  I screwed it out but I don't have many threads left to make it long enough to make it shift without grinding.  My guess is that the eyebolt screw was bent, before it broke and was allowing the shifting to happen.  Now that I have a straight bolt, it doesn't have the necessary play but only a guess.

I read the manual and it only has one sentence about adjusting the cable in an obscure place.  It shows doing that on the lower cable clamp and mentions a clearance of .01 inches - .03 inches.  That's not very much clearance.  I am going to play around with the lower cable clamp and see if I can get anything to change.  Doesn't mention adjusting either the upper or the lower eyebolt lengths which surprised me.  However, the adjustment I made on the upper eyebolt didn't change anything.  Nothing has changed on this over the years other than this bolt breaking as far as I know.  Is it possible that the cable is bad?  How common is that?  I can remove both ends of the cable and see if it moves back and forth freely to see if the cable is sticking as another test.

Anyone have experience adjusting the clutch pedal?  Any help is appreciated.

Here is the page I found.  Is there a reference somewhere else?

DrAllis wrote: Ignore the books numbers. Make it ZERO clearance. Bolt must be grade 8 with a lock nut !!   Spray WD40 all over that area so things move freely !! But, first of all, REPLACE the two bushings on the fork pivot. The inside one is broken.  Then WD40 all over and down inside your shift lever T-handle.

I did use a grade 8 with a lock nut to get the tractor out of the field.  I have to shift it while it is off to get it into gear.  I looked and I see zero clearance right now.  

So, it must be the bushings in the fork pivot?  

Turns out I do have a fairly new cable.  It has an agco part number tag on it which means it is new.  My son said it got replaced over a year ago while at an agco dealer who was fixing the steering.  I am guessing that replacement wasn't done correctly or there is another issue.  

Where exactly are the shift fork bushings?  I looked up "fork" in Agco parts book and I don't see any bushings around the shift forks in the diagram. 

Thanks for the part number and I do see those bushings.  Those bushings look like they are there.  See pictures below but I will take it apart and check them out.  

I did loosen the cable clamps and also unscrew the tie rod end out on the lower cable end, then moved the cable clamp back, but it didn't matter.

So far, adjusting cable and clamp has NOT worked.  I can try to go shorter on the cable.  To me, it would need to be longer to allow the clutch to engage sooner though.  That's why I thought it would be good to extend the lower tie rod end.  

The issue is that prior to the break in the bolt, I had to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to get it to shift without grinding.  Now I can't even do that.  

That fork with the bushings via a spring causes a small rod to pull out of the hydraulic manifold.  It is almost like that small rod isn't coming out far enough?  Not sure how to make that happen.  There are spings that can be tightened or lossen to do that?

If I take it loose to inspect the bushings, could I pull out on the rod and see how far it comes as a test?    

Here is what I see:

Another view showing the bushings.  I suppose they could be worn down on the inside.  I will remove.