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Les Kerf 
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
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 Topic: Ran When Parked...
Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 8:46am |
I bought this engine (cheap) mounted on an old Allis-Chalmers hay blower. Cylinders #1 & #4 have large chunks broken out of the sleeves, I presume caused by water freezing. I'm hoping I can get the sleeves out without damaging the block.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 9:06am |
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Pretty Ugly
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 9:11am |
scuff and buff, she'll fire right up !!!!
ATF/ace 50:50 and some patience. OK, maybe a lot of patience.
nice 'winter project' though...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Les Kerf
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Location: Idaho
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 9:37am |
 DMiller wrote:
Pretty Ugly |
Yup. I cannot recall ever seeing worse 
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 9:38am |
jaybmiller wrote:
...nice 'winter project' though...
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Might take several winters!
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 9:42am |
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at 71 I'm not in a hurry....though it'd be nice if ONE of my 2 big toes healed up soon...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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HoughMade
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Location: Valparaiso, IN
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 9:55am |
If it were me, I scrape an vacuum all the loose chunks out and if I could get a fluid to sit in the cylinders, I's use an actual rust remover- Evap-O-Rust, not some mix of anything. Then, when as much rust is gone as possible, load it up with some sort of penetrating oil and you may be able to get it disassembled without too much stress on the block.
I used this method on a "B" engine with 2 rusty cylinders and it runs great years later with the pistons never having been taken out. I get your engine isn't going to do that, but getting rid of the rust will help it come apart.
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1951 B
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captaindana
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 10:32am |
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Good luck Les. The G I had once upon a time ran when parked also. Looked just like yours! š«
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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
Dana
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DougG
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 10:40am |
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Wow- junk it and get a different one!
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 11:08am |
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Might be a great candidate for an electrolysis soak (e-bath). Anyone on here ever do an entire engine into a e-bath? How are its head, valves, intake, exhaust manifolds ??
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 11:20am |
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Les Kerf, is your engine a D14 149cu in from an AC 30L long conveyor or 30S short auger blower?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 1:54pm |
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I thought it might be a 125 CE engine... but your right, possible a 149..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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dr p
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 6:54pm |
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Les, is that the blower that sold in tioga county pa in Sept?
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 7:12pm |
AC7060IL wrote:
... How are its head, valves, intake, exhaust manifolds ?? |
Pretty rough, not sure what will be salvageable.
AC7060IL wrote:
Les Kerf, is your engine a D14 149cu in from an AC 30L long conveyor or 30S short auger blower?
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I am not knowledgeable enough about blowers to say but it doesn't have an auger. The engine is a 125 for certain, hand crank only.
I will try to get some more photos
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 7:22pm |
dr p wrote:
Les, is that the blower that sold in tioga county pa in Sept? |
No, this one has been sitting on my neighbors farm here in northern Idaho for many years
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 7:24pm |
DougG wrote:
Wow- junk it and get a different one! |
I actually have different one that looks like it will be much better, although it too is stuck. We got it to move about a half turn today
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 7:36pm |
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son got a CASE 530 backhoe that was setting in the corn field for 10 years with not stack on it.. ( 15 years ago)... I rebuilt the motor for him... Looked very similar to that one.. Once you get the pistons and crank out and pound out the sleeves.. you got the bare block... If not crack, it will clean up OK.... NEW KIT fixes about 90% of those problems ! ... I had to get the crank turned .020 to clean it up due to rain water in the crank case..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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55allis
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 2:00pm |
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My 60a combine engine looks just like thatā¦
In the process of getting the sleeves out to inspect the block.
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 3:42pm |
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Looks like the one in my WD project with 2 less cylinders. After complete disassembly the block cleaned up nice and the crank was turned .010ā under. New engine kit is making it look real good so far.
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DSeries4
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 4:34pm |
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My 59 D14 looked similar to that when I got it. Soaked it for several months and pounded out sleeves and all. Both the crank and cam were still good. Put a major OH kit in it and rebuilt the head. She runs 100% now.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 9:58pm |
AC7060IL wrote:
Les Kerf, is your engine a D14 149cu in from an AC 30L long conveyor or 30S short auger blower? |
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 10:03pm |
AC7060IL wrote:
Might be a great candidate for an electrolysis soak (e-bath). Anyone on here ever do an entire engine into a e-bath? How are its head, valves, intake, exhaust manifolds ?? |
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JoeM(GA)
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 10:24pm |
AC7060IL wrote:
Might be a great candidate for an electrolysis soak (e-bath). Anyone on here ever do an entire engine into a e-bath? How are its head, valves, intake, exhaust manifolds ?? |
brass, copper, and aluminum are negatively affected by electrolysis, it's also a line of sight operation, anode needs to be able to "see" all nooks and cranny's to clean them, would be hard on an assembled engine
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
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Alberta Phil
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Posted: 08 Jan 2025 at 9:41am |
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I like a challenge, but I might give that one a pass!!
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 08 Jan 2025 at 12:05pm |
55allis wrote:
My 60a combine engine looks just like thatā¦
In the process of getting the sleeves out to inspect the block.
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Here is my Model 60 Combine engine, just got it freed up yesterday. MUCH better looking on top, have yet to pull the pan.
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55allis
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Posted: 08 Jan 2025 at 2:38pm |
My bottom end looks pretty nice other than the crank seems to be a bit scored. Hoping it will be fine for the combine being I will have more into the engine than itās worth. 
Edited by 55allis - 08 Jan 2025 at 2:38pm
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 11 Jan 2025 at 10:55am |
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Les Kerf, just wondering how your 125 engine is coming along? Thanks for all your follow up photos & answers.
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KenBWisc
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Posted: 11 Jan 2025 at 3:42pm |
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I fear that is more than electrolysis can handle from my experience.
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'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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HudCo
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Posted: 11 Jan 2025 at 7:29pm |
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just make sure the valves seal and replace the oil sump pickup pipe that is probley cracked and it will run
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 7:22am |
AC7060IL wrote:
Les Kerf, just wondering how your 125 engine is coming along? Thanks for all your follow up photos & answers. |
I am setting the blower engine aside for now and focusing on the Model 60 combine engine as it is in MUCH better condition. Combine bottom view:  Everything looks so good I am not even going to remove the bearing caps. Combine head: A basic cleanup and valve job should suffice.  Combine Head #3 Cylinder: The intake valve seat has been re-worked and machined into the head somewhat deeper, maybe 1/16" or so. Not easy to see in the photo. I am not going to stress over it.  I am planning to re-seal everything and set it aside. I have a derelict Model C in which I hope to install this. That will warrant a new topic.
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