Hard starting 7010

We purchased a 7010 last fall and needed to replace the injector pump.  The tractor would start and run full throttle.  We lined up the pump marks and removed the pump to get it rebuilt.  After getting the pump rebuilt we lined up the marks and reinstalled on the tractor.  Our agco dealer installed all new injectors in the head that we removed.  The rest of the engine looked good.  After putting the head back on, hooking up everything the tractor is darn hard to start, it smokes A LOT when trying to start.  If we use ether it will finally start and it runs perfect.  If we shutoff the tractor it will restart easily until it sits for a while.  Any ideas what I could have done wrong?

the hardest job a pump has to do is crank a tractor - you stated the tractor would sart and run full throttle - suggest nothing was wrong with the pump - probably a fuel restriction that still exists or an air leak.  IF not - we always suggest using a remote fuel source bypassing the tractor's system - the pump could be advanced a few degrees. Try removing the front pump cover and moving the timing back - say 4 degrees - and see what happens.  Cranking speed is also VERY important on these engines. 

Cranks fast and SMOKES WHITE ???  or cranks fast and NO smoke ??

It's hard to help people when they don't accurately answer questions. Fall of 2022 or 2023 makes a difference to me. 2022 means they should be knowledgeable about COLD starts and block heaters, etc, etc.  2023 may mean they think this is like a gas tractor for cold starting and it ain't.  Good in 2022  and not now in 2023 would mean to me the likely hood of the injection pump being incorrectly timed somewhere faster than 16 degrees BTDC. BEST starting is with the throttle at dead idle, crank the engine and pull out the fuel knob slowly.

Edited by DrAllis - 30 Dec 2023 at 9:02pm

cranks fast and white smoke

What is overnight temperature in building?  0 - 15 - 30 - 45 - 60 Fahrenheit. 

Interesting thread,i bought a 7040,exact same issue,will roll white smoke but needs a shot of ether to start unless air temp is hot ,90f and above. First thing i did was check timing,expecting it to be too advanced,it was spot on,so retartded it 2 degrees. No better. Once its been running and motor warmed up its fine for a restart. Motor was just rebuilt before i got it,and it all seems good. I think maybe on mine it could be few things, cam might be timd wrong,causing low start compression ,or the pump isnt timed right internally. Im thinking pump issue as mine pulls good but wont roll black coal when you load it hard like a normal 426,always clean at full power.

Rubber damper could have slipped, sure. That's why it's important to CHECK where a running/starting engine is timed at BEFORE pump removal and place it right back where it was. Check timing to verify. Correct if needed. Start using block heater for an hour on COLD starts.

So a block heater is needed at 60 degrees?

My 8030 was the same way, would roll over good and smoke white, got a hold of Dr and he told me to change out the engine heater and make sure the extension cord is heavy enough and is good. I did that and always pump up fuel by hand and open throttle wide open and when she hit pull throttle back to idle, that is with the old girl setting in a shed with no heat. I need to plug the heater in for 4 or 6 hrs before trying to start her, it make all the different in the world. Do as the one that know what they're talking are telling you and answer all there question, and remember to check everything and recheck it again. GOOD LUCK. 

WOW!!! Smoking that much at 60deg and not a sign of ignition with all that cranking! Follow Dr's orders here for best results.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 31 Dec 2023 at 11:34am

The tractor started fine with the old injection pump just ran full throttle, so we only started it a couple of times before replacing the pump.  The cylinder head was removed because it was leaking anti-freeze at the injectors. All six injectors were supplied and installed by the dealer, the dealer also  'magna fluxed' the head to make sure there were no cracks, again the head was done and parts supplied by an agco dealer in Winfield KS.  We were told by the dealer the valves, seats, and springs were fine. 

Edited by farmboycitygirl - 31 Dec 2023 at 1:10pm

Just trying to help & get a clear picture of this issue, " Quote "   the dealer told you the valves, seats & springs were fine, DID THEY GRIND THE VALVES & SEATS ??? Is it possible to install a thicker head gasket than oem ? Could the valves be adjusted too tight? I,m no expert by any means but from what I see & hear in the video I can't help but think you have a low compression issue. All the best --   Dave

Getting accurate info shouldn't be so hard.....who bolted head on? Must have had leaky copper injector sleeves? Who set valve lash? Are injectors installed correctly? If pump was pulled after aligning pump timing marks and engine WAS NOT TURNED the rebuilt pump should go back in place in perfect time....it should have been locked with timing marks aligned. You said you had to turn rebuilt pump....something don't sound right to me. If dealer did all this work they should be helping figure out problem.

If old pump was trying to run away, I've seen one other DM have this, the weight carrier drive is pressed on and has a small pin to lock in place, and one came in sheared and slipping. This piece is where the timing mark is, so if you timed it upon removal, there's a possibility it wasn't actually in time, just some random spot. Good luck!