Reviving a WD45

A while ago I mentioned in another thread that I was compelled to get my uncle's WD45 up and running again. This is a 57 model according to the serial number and has power steering. Last time I saw it run was maybe ten years ago and parked outside out of the way.
I showed where the fuel tank had been removed, cleaned,flushed, then sealed. I also laid some fiberglass mesh on the bottom side where I opened up some pinholes after the cleaning, coating the mesh with sealer.




Tank is back in place. Carburetor was a mess so it has been cleaned and a new kit installed is back on.
With these items done I grabbed a battery that gets used for various things and set that in. It doesn't fit the box so I went Roadkill and strapped it to the frame. Key on, push the button, clunk.
At this point I decided to haul it home and put it in my shop. There I have tools, testing devices, inside and lighting for working at leisure after dark.

Well, I dropped the pan since Ds4 mentioned sludge which got me to thinking good idea. Also there is oil leaking front and rear of the pan. There was a bit of sludge on the bottom and I think because there is a high spot in the center



Otherwise looks reasonably clean.
Alvin is correct on the pump pickup

The reprinted service manual I have shows a screen like the one on my G262. I did some research and found an old thread where these pumps would be replaced by newer D17 pumps so appears to be the case here?
Thinking of renaming this thing "Snowball". I keep finding things that ought to be addressed but have to remember this started as a just get it running type project. But I did replace the shifter boot. It had a big split in it. Took it from the WD project and it will get the new one.

I tore one 45 engine apart that had the updated pickup like that. Sadly, that block is still on the stand.

the bottom end of the engine is VERY CLEAN... Was it that way when you opened, or did you wash it ?

There is a guard that is used on tractors with factory power steering narrow front ends. I have that part for sale if you are interested.

Got the oil pan back in place with the new gaskets in so that should be dryer now. Not an easy task when in frame and dodging the steering shaft. Which brings up the next item. U joint was pretty sloppy so that got replaced. Picked one up from the farm store. Having power steering set up made removing the shaft a little easier I think because I could separate the coupling from the PS unit and not have so much to work with. Still needed heat tho. Steering effort not much better yet. Looks like I need to focus attention on the steering wheel relocate kit. I realized the unit is a gear box with chain drive. Needs serious lubrication at minimum.
On to the electrics. I have a battery I use for various things. It is not enough to it turning over. Multimeter says 12.5 volts no load. Put a load test on and got 5.2 volts. Get a new battery. Now have one that fits in the box. Hook up the cables. Again, just a click. Get the test light out. I have power through the ammeter to the key switch. Turn the key on and the light goes out. What? Turns out, the battery cables are suspect. These are repair ends that clamp on to the cable. Rather than fight them I will replace them with molded ends

I've used crimp ring terminals for other batteries but have not seen what you describe for top post. Will keep a look out for them.
I had a suspicion there may be a problem with the starter so I took it apart and cleaned it up. Right or wrong i shined up the armature, brushes, and terminals and sprayed out the case with contact cleaner. This worked for the 170 last year when it turned over hard. On the bench it spins over good but I don't have a way to load test it. Back in it went and still no start. Next, the starter solenoid. I have a known good one but installed, it didn't help. I have 3 that all test good on the bench but no load. As with the battery cable, I have power through the solenoid when start button pushed and no cable to the starter. Attach starter cable, push button, power is lost. Put a new solenoid in. Will turn the engine over very well now.
My thinking here is since electricity takes the path of least resistance, the test light lit because under no load the current had no choice but to go through the light. And the connections and contacts were only good enough to pull that current away from the light and do nothing else when the circuit is complete. Hopefully you understand what I mean.

I was thinking the starter button from the start.  Sometimes after sitting so long they tend to go to ground instead of passing through to the starter,  It's hard to pinpoint, but this is usually what happens.  GOOD LUCK on the next steps...  Sorry I didn't read this sooner!

Inside the relocate kit

This is one Dad apparently got for the WD and never installed it. Chain in both were pretty rusty. WD45 soaked a few days. Shaft openings are well worn but have no intention replacing at this time. Haven't made progress on the charging system but need to move out for a bit. So I fired it up and took it for a couple laps around the garden. I had freed up the pivot points on clutch and brake pedals. They work well and it seems to drive well. Hand clutch feels good.

 I have power to and through the resistor and coil.

Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Oct 2023 at 8:38pm

So this showed up on my doorstep today.

Had asked earlier what the spring loaded rings were for. Panel covers the belt area keeping out dirt and such from the NF tires Lon provided this for the project. Thanks much.

Looks and fits real nice.

Hard to to count but i'm sure the driver has one less tooth....gear reduction

SteveM C/IL wrote: Hard to to count but i'm sure the driver has one less tooth....gear reduction

Tooth count is the same for both so no gear reduction. Just a method to raise and center the wheel over the platform. Seat is also moved to center and a padded seat added. I'll add a picture soon showing the offset.